Project Procrastination

[mwilkinson]

2 hours ago, Big Supes said:

I'm only interested in the tacho, but either way, I don't think they're Toyota branded, but could be mistaken. 

Sorry for the derail @mwilkinson

I'll give some serious thought to selling these and let you know.

Russ and Burna are correct, this is a genuine Toyota facia.  Here is an image of the back.

Edited October 29, 2021 by mwilkinson (see edit history)

[Big Supes]

25 minutes ago, mwilkinson said:

I'll give some serious thought to selling these and let you know.

Russ and Burna are correct, this is a genuine Toyota facia.  Here is an image of the back.

Ah, colour me surprised.  

Thanks mate.

[mwilkinson]

Some of you may have seen that in my OCD desire to refurbish the whole car I had managed to break a small part of the drivers door lock barrel. 

I tried buying a similar aged TR47 Toyota lock new of eBay for a Corolla, but unfortunately this was a 6 pin, and not an 8 pin key.  Supras also included split pins, which complicate things further.

I thought I would have to resigned myself to waiting for an appropriate, and invariably overpriced, second hand lock to materialise.

I'm happy to report that after some searching I have located a brand new RHD Supra lock.  It will need to be re-pinned to match my key.  I could just swap the pins over, but instead I've ordered a set of new pins so that the lock will be as new.  I've also bought a replacement pin set which will allow me to replace the split pins with complete ones, which are a common point of failure.

I'll update the thread with the outcome of the pin change on the lock in due course.

Edited October 30, 2021 by mwilkinson (see edit history)

[mwilkinson]

Diff is now fully rebuilt.  Will be collecting it next week.

Edited December 18, 2021 by mwilkinson (see edit history)

[mwilkinson]

I plan on using Motul 75w140 gear oil.  I've still got the TRD diff in there so I think this is the appropriate stuff.

Does anyone know how much oil a UK spec diff should hold.  I think it's 1.5 ltr.  A small case if 1.35 ltr?

[Tyson]

11 hours ago, mwilkinson said:

I plan on using Motul 75w140 gear oil.  I've still got the TRD diff in there so I think this is the appropriate stuff.

Does anyone know how much oil a UK spec diff should hold.  I think it's 1.5 ltr.  A small case if 1.35 ltr?

Assume you are not running the diff cooler?

  There is the below from this thread but not sure if that is for big or small case - https://www.mkivsupra.net/topic/31674-faq-oil-fluid-interval-capacity-steering-brake-coolant-diff-engine/

On 1/19/2006 at 12:16 PM, Alex said:

2JZ-GTE Engine Oil (TT Engine on a MKIV (UK or JDM))

Stock = 10w30 Semi Synthetic

I recommend Fully Synthetic 10w40/50

Dry Capacity 6.5L's

Change capacity 5-6L's (Have 6L's ready)

Regular Driving - BPU or Less

5w40 - Silkolene Pro S (Now Fuchs Titan Pro S), Castrol RS, Motul 300V Power

5w50 - Valvoline VR1 SynPower, AGIP PC5w-50

Regular Driving - BPU to Big Power

10w40 - Motul 300V Chrono, Royal Purple Racing 41

10w50 - Silkolene Pro S (Now Fuchs Titan Pro S)

10w60 - Castrol RS (NB Untested)

Track Oil

15w50 - Silkolene Pro R, Motul 300V

 

I'd recommend the 10w50 Silkolene/Fuchs Titan as it's Ester based.

NB: Mobil1 0wxx has been known to get passed the piston rings and cause excessive oil consumption. I would recommened ALL 0wXX oils are avoided. 5W is the lowest I would use.

See here for details on how to change your oil.

Interval = 3-9,000miles depending on use/power levels

 

2JZ-GE Engine Oil (NA (Non Turbo) Engine on a MKIV (JDM only))

Stock = 5w30 Semi Synthetic

I recommend Fully Synthetic 5w30-10w40

Dry Capacity 6.2L's

5w30 - Motul 300V

5w40 - Motul 300V, Silkolene Pro S (Now Fuchs Titan Pro S)

Change capacity 4.8-5.8L's

I'd recommened Silkolene Pro S 5w40.

Being less stressed that the GTE version any Fully Synthetic oil between a 5w30 and 10w40 should suffice.

Interval = 9-12,000miles depending on use

 

LSD Diff Oil

Stock = Unknown 75w90 Gear Oil

Capacity ~1.5L's (have 2L's Ready)

75w90 - Motul Gear 300 or Silkolene Syn5 (Now Fuchs Titan)

I recommened either of the two listed - both have been used without issue.

Interval = 2 Years / 30,000miles depending on use/power levels

See here for details on changing diff oil.

 

Manual 6-speed V160/161 Gearbox

Stock = Toyota V160 oil (PART No. 08885-01306)

Capacity 1.8l's when dry

Toyota V160 Oil (comes in 1L cans - require 2 cans)

Alternative:

Esso Dextron D21065

Royal Purple SynchroMax

BMW oil called MTF-LT-1 or LT-2

Castrol Transmax Z - Feedback required from testers

Mobil ATF 220 - Feedback required from testers

I recommend you stick with stock but in recent times this has been hard to get hold of, so it's the Esso now...

Interval = 2 Years / 30,000miles depending on use/power levels

 

Automatic 4-speed A340E

Capacity = 8.2L's (But you can only really change what's in the sump of it and that is ~2L's)

Stock = Toyota Type-IV - 2L's for a quick change. Have 10L's ready for a full flush.

Recommended Oil = Toyota Type-IV / Fuchs Titan 4400 / Motul ATF 1A

Interval = 1 years / 15,000 miles per 2L quick change with heavy use. 2 years and 30,000miles if you're a light user.

NB: You only need to do a full flush if something is wrong....it could actually be harmful to do too many full flushes due to the additives in the oil.

 

5-Speed Manual W58 (NA only)

Capacity = 2.6L

Recommended Oil = Any 75w/90 Gear oil should be ok. Motul Gear300 is a good option.

Stock Oil = SAE 75W-90/API GL-5 Gear Oil

Interval = Check transmission fluid level every 15,000 miles or 24 months. Service interval is not available for vehicles operated under normal conditions. Replace transmission fluid every 15,000 miles or 24 months if used under severe / heavy conditions

 

Brake Fluid

Stock = Dot 4

I recommend DOT 5.1

Capacity ~1.5L's (Have 2L's ready)

DOT 5.1 = Motul RBF600, Castrol SRF

Interval = Every 12months (also after any track day!)

 

Power Steering Fluid

Stock Dexron III ATF

I recommend you stick with Dexron III oil but all makes should be suitable

Capacity

Interval = ???

To fully Flush it see here

 

Clutch Fluid

Stock = DOT3 Brake Fluid

Capacity = Under 1L??

Interval = ???

I recommend you stick with stock or use a DOT4/5.1 Brake Fluid.

 

Coolant

Stock = Toyota 4Life Red

Capacity ~9L

I recommend you stick with Toyota Coolant.

Interval = 30,000miles

This should help you with a coolant change.

NB: 4Life changes colour as it get older, when it starts to turn a more browny red compared to it's vibrant red when new then it needs to be changed. Also 4Life comes premixed and needs no other liquids mixed with it.

 

The authour and site take no responsibility for your action/inaction following your reading of this FAQ...it's here as a guide.

 

Keywords: Oil, Fluid, Interval, Capacity, Steering, Brake, Clutch, Coolant, Diff, Engine.

 

[mwilkinson]

No I don't have the diff cooler.

I did see that thread but it's not specific enough about which diff case this refers to.  The oil itself is clearly in reference to stock internals.

I've just found the relevant section in the manual and it says to refill to just below the oil refill plug hole.  The manual says 1.35 ltrs, but it looks like a small case diff.

Edited December 19, 2021 by mwilkinson
Can't spell for s*!% (see edit history)

[The Raven]

1 hour ago, mwilkinson said:

No I don't have the diff cooler.

I did see that thread but it's not specific enough about which diff case this refers to.  The oil itself is clearly in reference to stock internals.

I've just found the relevant section in the manual and it says to refill to just below the oil refill plug whole.  The manual says 1.35 ltrs, but it looks like a small case diff.

The answer is 34. Im going to be honest the only thing i understand on that is the hammer. 

 

[Samurai 20V]

20 hours ago, mwilkinson said:

I plan on using Motul 75w140 gear oil.  I've still got the TRD diff in there so I think this is the appropriate stuff.

Does anyone know how much oil a UK spec diff should hold.  I think it's 1.5 ltr.  A small case if 1.35 ltr?

I'm using the same oil with my big case TRD LSD diff.

Cannot remember how much I filled though.

[mwilkinson]

I’ve finally got round to sorting the replacement door lock for the Supra.

Here is a step by step guide for anyone wanting to do the same.  The important thing here is that you can replace a single lock to your original key and don’t need to replace the set.

Replacement ignition, boot and door locks are still made by Auto Security Products (ASP) in the US and are available RHD specific.  I’ve had to order all my door lock parts from the US.  These will need to be re-pinned as I’ve done if you want to retain your original key.

Door locks are code D-30-140

Ignition barrels are code C-30-138

Boot lock code B-30-159.

I bought the lock from National Auto Lock Services (michaelhyde.com) and the pin kits from CLK Supplies (clksupplies.com)

Here is an image of the replacement lock and the original.  I’d previously removed the power door sensor from the old lock.  Of note these are basically identical, even the stamped numbering on the cylinder bodies are the same.  I suspect these are made by the original OEM supplier.

First you need to remove the power motor sensor.  This is relatively easy and you will fist need to gently pry the plastic tabs over the metal retainers.  On the newer one this is easier as the plastic is relatively new.  On an original part these can be brittle and could break.  So if re-pinning an original lock and not a new one, take your time with this.

There is then no need to get medieval on the cable tie, this will just slide up and over the lock and can be reused later.

Next you need to remove the plastic face plate and metal surround from the front of the lock.  There are two securing points for these two parts.  The plastic part will come off easily with some gentle force.  The metal part will require some mechanical leverage from a screwdriver or similar tool to push the indented metal back out slightly.  The metal is thin and will easily deform, so take your time with it.

 

Next step is on the back of the lock.  You need to remove the circlip which holds the lever that connects to the main door latch motor assembly in the door itself.  This can be done with a small screwdriver.

 

You can then remove the lever itself which will just lift off. This can only be refitted in one orientation, so no need to bake your noodle remembering which way it went round.

 

Then it’s time to remove the spring.  This spring wasn’t coiled by a Titan, so it comes off relatively easily and shouldn’t take a limb or your eye at the same time.  I’ve taken the liberty of adding some annotations as to where the spring lugs seat when attached to the lock. The green arrow illustrates that upon reattaching later, it is the top lug that will need to moved.

 

 

Edited June 17, 2022 by mwilkinson (see edit history)

[mwilkinson]

We now need to remove the barrel from the main body and this is where it gets fiddly and could go a bit awry!

The pins in the barrel are sprung, again these springs are weak, but there is enough bounce to catch you out and for pins, in particular the split pins, to fall out and cause you some inconvenience.

The simple answer, if available to you, is to use the original key and insert it into the barrel and use this to retain the pins as you slide the assembly out of the body.

 

You can then slowly withdraw the key whilst placing the barrel horizontally to the keys.  I’d grip the outer part of the barrel and slowly release the pressure on the springs as you withdraw the key.

Useful to note that despite it being possible to reinsert the barrel either way round into the body, it will actually only work properly in one orientation.  You need to match the pin side of the barrel with the hole at the front to the part of the barrel which is open.  You can see this in the image above one,

the next step is to replace the pins themselves.  For me this was a case of working my way through both sides of the barrel making sure the PIN number at any given position on the barrel matched that of the original barrel.  
 

The pins themselves are numbered, so this isn’t particularly difficult, just fiddly.  I used some fine needle nose pliers to extract the pins and I did this one at a time.

I bought two pin kits for this task.  I could have rescued the original pins, but I was concerned they would be worn.  I had also considered replacing the split pins with single piece pins, as they are a point of failure in the these locks.  I ultimately decided to retain the split pins but replaced them with new where required.

A single pin only has a single spring, whilst each half of the split pins has a spring.

 

 

Once you are satisfied that you made the appropriate changes, insert the relevant key into the barrel to retain the pins and then insert this into the housing and check to see if it turns.  Remember to check the barrel orientation, as detailed earlier, otherwise this could be the reason why the key still won’t turn.

If your original lock is damaged or missing and you can’t get access to the boot one or the other door, or imply don’t fancy pulling the car apart to get to them, you can work out the relevant pins for the lock using the key itself.  I found a few places online that detailed this. It is useful to look for TR47 info as this is the lock / key designation.  Alternatively, you can buy tools that allow you to determine this sequence from one of your working locks.  There are some videos on YouTube covering this.

Assuming you’ve got it working, it is them just a case of reassembling the lock in the reverse order.

When putting the circlip back on, remember to put it in this orientation.

At the end you should have a working lock which works with your original key.

Edited June 17, 2022 by mwilkinson (see edit history)

[The Raven]

Yeah narh.

I have no skill or patience to even begin to attempt to do this, hence when my Ig barrel got stuck and refused to give my key back, and turn the car off i swapped it out. Now i have two keys and the old barrel in my parts box........

Thats some insane level of nuts to even attempt to do IMO let alone be able to pull it off........... bravo.

[Hamilton]

Fantastic work. I don’t know how you tracked them down but those lock barrel part codes and websites are incredibly helpful- I’ve just done some ordering from the States and, hopefully, will soon have a working boot lock at last. Great write-up, thank you. 

[mwilkinson]

2 hours ago, Hamilton said:

Fantastic work. I don’t know how you tracked them down but those lock barrel part codes and websites are incredibly helpful- I’ve just done some ordering from the States and, hopefully, will soon have a working boot lock at last. Great write-up, thank you. 

Glad I could help.  Any problems just let me know and I'm sure between us we can sort any issues out.

[mwilkinson]

I also had a delivery of Toyota parts courtesy of SRD today. 

I can now finish off the refurbishment of the HVAC, gearbox, and front subframe.

I ordered a few parts I haven't heard anyone mention before in respect of the front windscreen.

Has anyone else ever bought these as part of a windscreen replacement? I always see the main seal, but not these bits.

[mwilkinson]

It's been a long time since I updated this thread.  I have progressed a few small things with the car, such as finishing off the refurbishment of the HVAC.

More importantly I watched with great interest the work done on Darren's car (Wile e coyote).  My plan had always been to have the car shell chemically dipped and then resprayed, so Darren's car set a perfect benchmark for me to assess if this was what I wanted to do, and being honest if I could afford to do it.

I've since been to see Darren's car, which looks amazing, and I have spoken at length with Kane, who has been doing the body work.

I'm pleased to say that my car is being taken to Surface Processing Ltd in Dudley on Monday where it will be chemically stripped and e-Coated.  From there it will be taken to Kane where he will start the bodywork and respray.

There are a few bits of the body that need some attention, but there are generally cosmetic, I dont - as far as I know - have any real rust issues.

Undecided on colour at the moment.  The sensible answer would be to keep it factory.

Will update with some pictures showing collection and drop off.  I will also see if I can get SPL to do some videos of the car being dipped.

[mwilkinson]

I mentioned that I had finished the HVAC refurbishment.  I had been waiting on some parts from Rock Auto and the new RHD evaporator I had tracked down from Japan.

I thought I would put up a few pictures for you from this.  I replaced the two bolts holding the pipes and expansion valve to the evaporator as they had corroded with age.  I bought these new from Toyota versus refurbishing them myself.

Expansion valve was direct replacement part from Denso and A/C seal kit was a generic kit via Rock Auto.

This shows you the difference between the original Toyota expansion valve on the left and the Denso replacement on the right.

This shows the state of the old bolt versus the new bolt.  These hold the expansion valve and pipes to the evaporator.

There is a temperature probe that attaches to the evaporator.  There was no point blindly reinstalling this without first making sure it was working as per the manual.

The testing involved placing the probe into water set at a specific temperature and taking a resistance reading.  This required a lazer thermometer and multi-meter to complete. It wasn't too difficult and the results were as per the manual.  

Placed into the HVAC system.

Of note, when coming to commission the A/C there is a requirement to place a volume of pag oil direcrly into the evaporator itself.

This is the seal kit I bought for the car.  If anyone else needs it for reference.

Edited June 24, 2023 by mwilkinson (see edit history)

[mwilkinson]

Car was collected today by Dan from Auto Haul and dropped off at the dippers.  Kane kindly travelled up with Dan to ensure the panels could be removed without damage. 

This is a monumental milestone for me and the rebuild. I'm both excited and nervous about this.

I have asked if the company can get some photos or images of the process.  Not particularly hopeful they will.  If they do I'll be certain to post them.

My step father - supervising the loading.

Dropped off and ready for a bath.

Before the spot was even cold, the GR Supra decided it needed to use the space

Edited June 26, 2023 by mwilkinson (see edit history)

[mwilkinson]

Got a call today to say the car has been dipped and e-coated.  I don't yet have any images of the finished article but SPL did send me a few images and a video from part of the process.

All I've now got to do is get it picked up!

Edited July 19, 2023 by mwilkinson (see edit history)

[mwilkinson]

Somebody kindly pointed me to SPL's Facebook page.

[mwilkinson]

Picked up my new HKS Hipermax S suspension from SRD today.

 

[mwilkinson]

Also picked up a nearside facift front wing.

I also picked up a few more front bumper items.

[wile e coyote]

how was the shell 

Any bits needing Attention after getting back

[mwilkinson]

Hi Darren,

Not actually got the shell back yet. Still with SPL waiting on some better weather to transport.  I may have to bite thr bullet at some point and pay for a covered wagon / trailer as the forecast is rubbish for the next few weeks.

There definately is some bodywork to do, which I knew about before the dip.  From the pictures I'm not seeing anything we weren't expecting, but I won't know for certain until its with Kane and he reports back.

I bought new front wings from Toyota as mine were rolled (badly!), but I still had the old ones dipped and eCoated as it was all part of the price.

[wile e coyote]

Yep saw Kane at the weekend 

Said looking forward to doing yours

You decided on colour yet ?