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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Project Procrastination


mwilkinson

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Thanks Ric.

Once I've got the new brake lines in I can fit the pipe covers and finally start putting the subframes back in and get it back on 4 wheels. 

That will feel like an epic milestone.

I need to pull my finger out and get the Alcon brakes refurbished too.

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When you fit the subframe it is tempting to grease up the nuts and threads but it is important to resist the temptation as all Toyota torque specs are on dry threads. I applied liberal amounts of grease to the bolt heads after tightening to prevent future corrosion but I doubt you'll want to dirty yours like I did mine. The badly corroded bolts I found when I did my rear end work were the 10mm ones at the rear end on the tank guard and exhaust hanger. So those got big globbings of grease on the renewed bolts.

I used to work in the oil industry and there is one additive used as an EP additive in some gear oils, amine phosphate, that blocks rusting like you wouldn't believe. You only need 0.02% in a base oil and coated steel never rusts even bare metal sprayed with hot salt water. I've often looked for somewhere to buy the stuff but I only ever come up with Chinese sources in big quantities. I wish I had grabbed some when it was an on the shelf bottle. It's so good it should be an off the shelf item at Halfords.

https://www.unpchemicals.com/ep-aw-additives/amine-neutralized-mixed-phosphate-esters-psail-2280.html

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Posted (edited)

Thanks for the tip 👍

I had to drop the whole fuel tank and start again as I forgot to install the fuel pump loom - doh!

I can't believe I didn't do it on first install, but there we go.

For anyone else's reference this is how the pipes and loom go.

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Edited by mwilkinson (see edit history)
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What are your plans for the car when it's done? A museum piece? Or a show queen for the fine Summer days? Or a garage queen that rarely sees the light of day? Or a regular out and about tourer? It's likely to be a tough call. 

When I took my Supra to the club stand at the 2016 NEC Classic Car Show there were a bunch of Toyota GB guys dropped on the stand. The leader of the pack bounced over and said to me, right colour and to not use it except to run down the MOT station once a year. It's been pretty much like that for the last 8 years but I'm looking forward to taking it on a 3,000 mile European tour this Summer. More nervous about how it'll hold up on the Autobahn than I was when it last travelled there in 2002 seeing it's all original under the bonnet baring the usual service items. It's a nice kind of nervous though, to get the excitement back. A proper grand tour accompanied by my petrol head daughter who I'll be adding to the cars insurance for the first time. I found spending so much time and effort and money on the car in 2017 made me reluctant to dirty the underside. Hopefully you won't gain the dirt and puddle phobia that I fell to and find the time and desire to use the car to it's fullest potential; just wincing only a little bit as you pass through that unavoidable puddle.

Part of the grand tour has me heading across a number of passes in the Alps, one being where the Top Gear bods stood looking down the snaking road when in search of the best driving road in Europe. That is right on the Swiss/Italian border so the plan that day is breakfast in Switzerland and lunch on the Italian peak. I'm planning to get a good photobook of memories with the car and daughter then I'll print that off into a booklet. Then, it'll probably be back into the garage to rarely see the light of day. Or, hopefully not and it'll become a more regular travel partner. Or my daughter can take it on, she was 3 months old when I bought the car so it's been a constant for her and a driving desire.

To sum up, cars are more than metal and the Mk4 Supra is no ordinary car. Enjoy.

Edited by rider (see edit history)
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Posted (edited)

I've now finished running the fuel and brake lines under the car.

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I have a twin brake line setup as although the car is a facelift body, it has the non-VVTi engine, so still retains the earlier brake setup.

At the front of the car there is a connector block for the brake lines to connect to and a bracket that holds the fuel lines.

I do have a new brake pipe connector, but I chose to reuse my old zinc plated one.

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Once the pipes and brackets were all secure I refitted the pipe covers.

I found out that my front one is broken at the tip, so I will need to replace this.

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I then installed the new bulkhead brackets so that I can start reinstalling the pipework along the bulkhead.  This also allowed me to secure the fuel tank breather hose that was still flapping around in the engine bay.

I reused the original zinc plated bolts here instead of the new ones I bought.

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I then decided to install the anti-roll brackets.  These were torqued to 18Nm as per the manual.

The brackets are original and have been powdercoated. Bolts are new.  I have Titan anti-roll bars, so that is why the lower brackets look different.  These are new lower brackets and bushings from Titan.

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I then installed the front heat shield.  This is original and powdercoated and the bolts and nuts are all original and zinc plated.

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Edited by mwilkinson (see edit history)
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Thats awesome work dude, how do you remember where everything goes? Especially when you're dealing with new parts in new bags with just part numbers on em....

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I don't 😅

All the old parts were removed and placed into bags or boxes that related to the parts catalogue pages.

They are then reviewed by me to see if I can reuse / refurbish or replace them.

All new parts are listed on an excel workbook I've created. Green shows a part I want to buy, grey shows an unavailable part and blue a reused part.

Here is one of the pages I created.

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The new parts are then placed into the corresponding box or bag.

Despite all this I still get stuck, or forget a bit and have to redo the install - like the fuel pump loom when installing the fuel tank.

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  On 3/4/2025 at 11:15 AM, mwilkinson said:

I don't 😅

All the old parts were removed and placed into bags or boxes that related to the parts catalogue pages.

They are then reviewed by me to see if I can reuse / refurbish or replace them.

All new parts are listed on an excel workbook I've created. Green shows a part I want to buy, grey shows an unavailable part and blue a reused part.

Here is one of the pages I created.

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The new parts are then placed into the corresponding box or bag.

Despite all this I still get stuck, or forget a bit and have to redo the install - like the fuel pump loom when installing the fuel tank.

Expand  

Awesome, love a good spreadsheet. Are you sharing it on here by any chance?

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  • 3 weeks later...

I've now installed the engine bay bulkhead pipe work.

First were the two rear brake pipes that rund from the ABS actuator to the union pipe at the base of the nearside of the engine bay.

I managed to get pne new a the other I had to reuse as it is now discontinued.

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I was also able to still get a replacement near side front brake pipe and losely install it.

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I then installed the two pipes that run from the brake reservoir.  These were both new replacements.20250314_145325.thumb.jpg.b55ef78ed9734383de6c0c368309961d.jpg

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I then installed the pipe from the clutch reservoir to the gearbox.  I reused my original pipe.

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Finally I installed the offside front brake pipe.  This is annoyingly discontinued, so i had to reuse my original pipe.

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I then installed the two pipe spacers.  The larger one goes on the back of thevpipes whwre the HVAC drain pipe comes through the bulkhead. 

The other spacer separates the two pipes going into the brake reservoir.

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I then installed the new clutch master cylinder. Although I bought a new guard and bolts I decided to reuse my zinc plated old ones instead.

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Next was the repainted brake booster.

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Edited by mwilkinson (see edit history)
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I've now installed the bulkhead pipe work.

I've also installed the aluminium part of the front subframe.

More details about the work and parts for the subframe can be found earlier in the thread. 

Main subframe bolts torqued to 125 Nm.

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Steering rack bolts x 4 torqued to 75Nm.

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Edited by mwilkinson (see edit history)
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I also did a few other small bits.

Window trim.  I had previously installed the new yellow grommets, but have put on the front window seal rear guide.  These parts are discontinued, so I had to use my originals.  Fortunately they are in good order.

However, I have purchased new screws.

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I then installed the steering column boot to the inside of the car. I have reused the boot and bracket, but replaced the bolts.

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I've also now installed the assembled rear subframe.  Info about the subframe rebuild can be found earlier in my build thread.

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I used new bolts to secure the subframe.

The rear 8 x bolts were torqued to 58 Nm. The same torque is applied to the 2 x nuts that secure the rear bushes the the actual subframe.

The 2 x front bolts were torqued to 175 Nm. Remeber to install the two lower cups too (easily forgotten).

I then installed my new HKS Hipermax S rear struts.

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I used new bolts, nuts and washers to secure the suspension.  There were also a set of spacers that came with the HKS kit to ensure the correct fitment of the rear stud to the lower suspension arm and associated bolt.

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None of the other suspension bolts have been tightened.  I'll do that later when the car is ready to be taken off the body dolly and the wheels installed.  I'll jack the hub /knuckle to the correct ride position and then tightened everything up.

Final thing was to ensure the ABS sensor leads were pushed up into the cabin from underneath.

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Edited by mwilkinson (see edit history)
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