MattP Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 (edited) Lucky me on returning home today noticed a smell of burning oil as I pulled onto the drive on inspection it appears the engine has sprung a leak from the lower front section of which I believe to be the Crank seal. when I say lucky me I really do mean lucky It must have gave up as I entered my estate as the line of oil starts near enough there and the engine had half the dip stick worth of oil left in (so no damage praise the gods.....) anyone changed the seal themselves how hard is it or had it replaced by a garage and have a rough estimate at cost? Just to give me a clue I was going to change the Crank Pulley and seals this winter regardless... Edited September 2, 2014 by MattP (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 The seal is pretty easy to change if you would feel confident of doing a cambelt change. With the cambelt off the lower star/guide wheel needs to come off to reveal the seal behind it. Removal is by carefully cutting into the seal and prizing it out. A correct sized circular drift and some patience is all that's required to tap the new seal in, crucially remembering not to tap it beyond flush (a drift that's external diameter is larger than the seal's diameter helps here). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattP Posted September 1, 2014 Author Share Posted September 1, 2014 May aswell get the Crank pulley,Timing Belt and idler etc done and probably that little hydraulic tensioner ram thing that was on the N/A if the TTs have them kill all the birds at once... Im not frustrated with it for once im genuinely glad it gave up where it did and it didnt get chance to murder my block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 How many miles has the car done? the problem with "just" changing the seal is it`ll probably go again, a worn oil pump can be the culprit for pushing the seal out and thats a pita job with the engine in the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattP Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 How many miles has the car done? the problem with "just" changing the seal is it`ll probably go again, a worn oil pump can be the culprit for pushing the seal out and thats a pita job with the engine in the car. About 65K the car does sit around for 6-7 months over winter etc so that probably doesnt help old seals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattP Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 (edited) How many miles has the car done? the problem with "just" changing the seal is it`ll probably go again, a worn oil pump can be the culprit for pushing the seal out and thats a pita job with the engine in the car. Turns out its not the Crank seal its coming from a bolt in the oil pump housing as shown... The oil was gushing from the bolt shown that goes into the oil pump assembly at the top. Now we have checked the O ring on the bolt it's fine and there is no crack in the pump assembly.... Replace O ring anyway and try it? Parts on order regardless are. *Timing belt Kit and auxiliary belt *water pump gasket as the pump looks new *Genuine crank pulley and seal *I will order the relevant O ring tommorow Edited September 2, 2014 by MattP (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bossco Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 You have a beautiful hand. I'm a crank seal master mate, having mine blow twice in a month! I've never known oil to leak from that bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattP Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 (edited) You have a beautiful hand. I'm a crank seal master mate, having mine blow twice in a month! I've never known oil to leak from that bolt. Thats why I thought at the time it was the crank seal after hearing your story... I didnt tackle this problem I left it to a proper Mechanic thats why my hands were clean haha He is sure it was "Gushing" from that bolt and down the side though... He picked the car up dinner time and worked his way through it to find the issue as opposed to me breaking things. Edited September 2, 2014 by MattP (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 Is that not the pressure relief valve? strange for it to just leaking there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattP Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 Is that not the pressure relief valve? strange for it to just leaking there. thats the one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bossco Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 If you had an oil pressure gauge you might have seen it coming in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattP Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 If you had an oil pressure gauge you might have seen it coming in advance. I could smell it lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattP Posted September 4, 2014 Author Share Posted September 4, 2014 Back on point we found the cause of the leak.... The Oil pump relief valve piston had stuck closed and was scored to bits. Additionally we found the hydraulic tensioner was dead.... And the crank sprocket had a bent and cracked tooth.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattP Posted September 8, 2014 Author Share Posted September 8, 2014 (edited) Now waiting on delivery of the following... *Crank seal front and rear *New OEM Oil Pump *New OEM Water Pump *New OEM Timing Kit with Gates belts and OEM tensioner pulley. *New OEM Tensioner Ram *New OEM Crank Sprocket *New OEM Crank Pulley *New OEM Crank Pulley Bolt *Various OEM Gaskets *New Lower Sump (it had a small dent in it which annoys me from last year) Edited September 8, 2014 by MattP (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pudsey Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 Cricky that little lot wouldn't have been cheap. I hope you manage to get everything sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattP Posted September 8, 2014 Author Share Posted September 8, 2014 Cricky that little lot wouldn't have been cheap. I hope you manage to get everything sorted. While it's all apart and all that... I don't want to worry about it next year when it comes out to play so get the lot done at once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 I have some of my higher tension oil pump seals coming in 2 to 3 weeks, they are a big help if the crank nose has a wear groove on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
little num Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 (edited) I have a brand new crank sprocket here from Toyota :-( its the older style where the plate needs to be welded on but a lot stronger then the facelift type from the look of that. So from reading that shopping list your taking the engine out ???? Or dropping the subframe ??? Edited September 8, 2014 by little num (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
safcdixon Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 Matt I reckon your car is cursed mate, the amount of crappy luck you've had is unreal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayJay1374 Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 Matt I reckon your car is cursed mate, the amount of crappy luck you've had is unreal I must have the same curse then! I think it's just you having the most reliable supra ever! Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 I must have the same curse then! I think it's just you having the most reliable supra ever! Lol That's mine, 16 years and never even blown a bulb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 VVTi crank trigger wheel has a totally different tooth pattern to the earlier type, not interchangeable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattP Posted September 8, 2014 Author Share Posted September 8, 2014 I have some of my higher tension oil pump seals coming in 2 to 3 weeks, they are a big help if the crank nose has a wear groove on it. Thanks Chris I think the crank will be fine it's just a case of replacing the pump instead of rebuilding the oil relief valve piston thing. Il have the mechanic check the surface while the old pump comes out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattP Posted September 8, 2014 Author Share Posted September 8, 2014 I have a brand new crank sprocket here from Toyota :-( its the older style where the plate needs to be welded on but a lot stronger then the facelift type from the look of that. So from reading that shopping list your taking the engine out ???? Or dropping the subframe ??? It's all out except the oil pump and sump which I have left in the hands of my mechanic to choose wether to drop the frame or raise the engine. I'm not doing any of this work myself it's too important for me to make a mistake and mince an engine. The crank sprocket for the VVTI is indeed different and one piece so the welded one is apparently not necessary especially at BPU. Thanks though it's nice to get offers of help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattP Posted September 8, 2014 Author Share Posted September 8, 2014 Matt I reckon your car is cursed mate, the amount of crappy luck you've had is unreal I feel lucky TBH that it happened where it did and I stopped before the block ran dry. Besides like I said earlier these cars are getting on now may aswell change all the offending parts for peace of mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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