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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Trackday: Shining rotors, brake cooling, pads and driver input please


sCaz

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Hi,

 

I am using 3G slit/drilled 323mm rotors with Porterfield fast road pads. Was on the track today and made my rotors really shine. I think i cooked my castrol srf react because brakes are really swampy now.

 

  • Claim 1 (True or False it please): I guess the excess heat is mostly me being unused to track driving and doing the braking too early over a longer time and not doing it firmer and closer to the corner?
  • Claim 2 (True or False it please): I am running too many laps without a pure cooling lap (3-5 full-on).

 

I think they shouldn't heat up in excess if I brake later but harder but I would also like some input to other things I could do with my car.

 

Can someone recommend a pad that works great on track for the supra UK/EU spec brakes?

Is it a good idea to tunnel in some more air directly in front of the brakerotor with a 2.5" flex channel (http://badassparts.se/luftslang-2-5-silikon-300-c.html)

 

Thanks in advance //Peter

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The carbon/ceramic Endless ones worked well on my car on track. Decent quality fluid, discs and pads make a huge difference.

 

It won't be your driving on track though. Harder braking creates worse conditions than slower, softer braking. And if you're doing it right, you should be trying to set them on fire, anyway :D

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Should their be fireworks shooting passed your sidewindow entering a hairpin? ;-D

 

I got the big brake (US/UK) and Porterfield Fast Road Pads + Castrol SRF React (new).

What to change and in which order; Driving style, rotors, pads?

Need to bleed the brakes cause they are really swampy now and I can hear the slits in the rotor so I guess the pads are looking like a smudged muffin by now... But it was fun!

 

And again; any tips for good track pads? :-)

Edited by sCaz (see edit history)
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If you boil brake fluid the pedal just goes straight to the floor. Boiling SRF takes some doing.... I prefer stock discs to fancy drilled or slotted stuff, usually done on cheap Taiwanese castings. You probably need a race pad, Porterfield do an R4 compouind, but it contains a lot of sintered iron, so expect rusty dots on the paintwork where irridescent particles fuse to it, and wheels that will look like they are rusty. Very noisy and dirty, but reasonably effective. Work adequately from cold. If you can duct air to the eye of the front discs it will make a huge difference to temperatures, but it takes some fabricating to make a duct to accept a cooling hose.

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If you can duct air to the eye of the front discs it will make a huge difference to temperatures, but it takes some fabricating to make a duct to accept a cooling hose.

Bignum uses/used fabric conditioner bottles with the bottom haves chopped off and discarded. :D

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Endless brakes was too expensive for my budget (£650+ for front pads?), waiting for an offer on a set of Carbotech XP10 which a friends who runs them cold (but in a much lighter car) recommended. What are your thoughts? If bleeding the fronts and this weeks normal braking makes the rotors and pads seem somewhat like they where before last wednesday, I'll have another trackday on saturday and then thats it for this summer.

 

Definetly putting in 2.5" ducts, how should I spread/point the cold air.. just straight onto the shortside/ventilation of the discs?

 

Lesson learned, quote created; "Big brakes aren't always good brakes. Good brakes are an expensive material sport that is aided by good braking techniques."

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