Jays VVTi Single Turbo Paddleshift build thread

[evinX]

If your supra is a genuine facelift id stay with the facelift front side markers, if its not, us specs!

[ripped_fear]

Upload images online and put *http://IMAGEURL* (without the stars) and they will be bigger

 

I wish I had the same level of attention to detail as you lol... I botch most of my jobs

 

This dude right mate upload it then stick the http code in the IMG tags. like so.

 

 

Still hosted here.

 

Anyway cars looking great some awesome work going into it.

[j_jza80]

I thought when you did it that way, with such as Photobucket, they were hosted by photobucket and that's why there are so many broken image links in past threads?

[ripped_fear]

I thought when you did it that way, with such as Photobucket, they were hosted by photobucket and that's why there are so many broken image links in past threads?

 

Yep thats very true but your not hosting them via photobucket. Your uploading them direct to the forum then stick the forum link to your picture inside the IMG codes.

 

So you would 'Go advanced' then click the paperclip. Upload the required resized picture then copy the link into the IMG bits

[j_jza80]

So today, I've mostly been doing wiring! I fitted my HKS SLD II (speed delimiter) and Chris Wilson Boost Cut Controller.

 

I also made a 'how to' guide for the SLD II

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?321350-HKS-SLD-II-speed-limit-defencer-installation-guide-for-Tiptronic-Supras&p=4019346#post4019346

 

As you can imagine, that was pretty time consuming, but I did manage to get a few other things done.

 

I made some custom speaker adapters the other day, to fit my 4" speakers into the factory boxes. I then sprayed the adapters and the surrounding speaker box liberally with black plastidip, so they would be 100% concealed when fitted.

I also fitted matching rear speakers.

 

Next on the agenda was finally sorting a mounting solution for my Stack Oil pressure and Wideband gauges.

 

I hate dash and pillar mounted gauge pods with a passion and as this is a roadcar, I wanted to keep the interior looking OEM-ish. I did toy with mounting them either side of the rev counter, but it just looked awful.

 

So my solution, as with my old single turbo car, was a subtle glove box installation. It's turned out pretty well I think.

 

 

 

Not as convenient as having them mounted in front of me, but a decent compromise for a road car I think.

Edited April 15, 2015 by j_jza80 (see edit history)

[supra_ufo]

you just gave me an idea where to mount my cup holders

[j_jza80]

So today has once again mostly been spent wiring. I ran my wires for the active sub box, heated seats and bosch 044 through the firewall, and around to the fuse box. They are wired into a small fusebox at the moment, but I might buy some fuse holders and utilise the stock fuse locations down the line.

 

While the interior was out, i've got a couple of niggles to sort, including the common trim lifting issue with facelift arm rest.

 

So i filled the gap from the lifted area with two part glue, and then clamped it down, using some wood to distribute the force of the clamps. (added after this pic)

 

And the result

[MATT RR]

Nice job on the armrests!

 

Glove box idea is a nice way to conceal the guages, they look great, can you see the one on the right ok when seated or is it slightly angled away from you? This would be my ideal location for any guages!

[j_jza80]

It is slightly angled away, but both can be seen pretty clearly from the drivers seat.

 

I might have a shim made to straighten it out if it isn't as clear while driving.

[TuneR]

Hey man, can you PM details of the AMG paddles you used and how much they cost? Thinking of doing this as it makes the car totally different, cheers.

[j_jza80]

Hey man, can you PM details of the AMG paddles you used and how much they cost? Thinking of doing this as it makes the car totally different, cheers.

 

PM on its way

[marc_p]

This is coming along really nicely, it's all the little details that count

[j_jza80]

This is coming along really nicely, it's all the little details that count

 

Cheers mate

[j_jza80]

Not had a lot of time for Supra stuff today, but I did manage to get the wiring finished and connected for my gauges, boost controller and active sub box.

 

Although totally unnecessary at the moment, I couldn't help but test them.

 

Love the display of the boost controller.

 

 

Really happy with how that lot has turned out.

 

I am also really impressed with the sound system, considering it is only a couple of pairs of basic Pioneer coaxials and an amplified sub box, it sounds fantastic.

[j_jza80]

Another day of wiring today But That is just about all of the electrics done now.

 

Fuel pump relay fitted behind pass. rear card

 

New 30a fuel pump wiring through stock grommet. Has since been wrapped in self amalgamating tape.

 

From underneath. To get the wiring to the pump cover, I had to remove the exhaust backbox and then drop the heatshield. This is a view from underneath.

 

Clubman spec quick release for the fuel pump wiring. This is fittes so that the wiring can now go straight to the pump uninterrupted, using the included bulkhead fitting. Thanks to CW for the recommendation.

 

Final wiring completed on the heated seats, and they're now working VERY well.

The only thing is I can't get my head around how to wire it in utilizing the stock switch I have. But that is a minor detail that can wait for another time.

 

Then I removed the Blitz exhaust, and fitted the pipework for the Titanium system. Not going to fit the rear box until it comes back from the paintshop.

 

I also fitted new boot rubbers. My boot release now works perfectly, and there are no odd noises from the back.

 

Tomorrows jobs are getting the rear arches rolled by Al Massey, then I'll hopefully:

 

- remove rear bumper in preparation for the paintshop

- Fit boost controller solenoid

- fit oil pressure sensor

- fit active spoiler

 

Just had to order a new seatbelt from Keron, so I'll have to wait on that before refitting the interior. That will probably happen next weekend.

Edited April 18, 2015 by j_jza80 (see edit history)

[Scott]

Was the original heated seat switch not in the lower centre panel? You could bore the hole for the switch and have it down there

[j_jza80]

What I mean is I have an OEM switch, and I want to use it to control these heated seats.

 

 

I *think* I need to ditch the relay the seat comes with, and use two sepearate relays. The complication is the stock switch has only one input, but two outputs. I also need to order a stock wiring plug for the switch.

[Scott]

What I mean is I have an OEM switch, and I want to use it to control these heated seats.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]200255[/ATTACH]

 

I *think* I need to ditch the relay the seat comes with, and use two sepearate relays. The complication is the stock switch has only one input, but two outputs. I also need to order a stock wiring plug for the switch.

 

Do you have both heated seats? You can probably use the stock relays.

 

2 relays is definitely the way it should go, one for each seat.

 

Pin 1 to physical ground

Pin 2 to LH relay switch pos

Pin 3 to cigar bulb negative

Pin 4 to small fused B+, personally I would go with an ignition live so that they can't be left on by accident.

Pin 5 Could probably take from cigar bulb positive

Pin 6 to RH relay switch pos

 

Sorry if that's teaching you how to suck eggs but that's how I would do it

Edited April 19, 2015 by Scott
Edit, grounding error. (see edit history)

[Scott]

I've just clicked on what you were referring to regarding the power.

 

You're wondering if you can do away with the relays altogether and just use the power out to each of the seats. I don't know the answer to be honest. If you are putting in a whole new wiring then you could simply rate it as such and do it that way. The only thing in question would be the rating of the switch itself and whether it's comfortable with that sort of current.

 

Given the pinout assignment this would suggest that it is indeed rated in such a fashion, the only thing I would question was where did the pinouts come from.

 

I haven't had a look at the manual wiring guide but I'm guessing that this won't be on there due to being UK?

 

Edit:

 

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?661737-Aftermarket-seat-heater-with-oem-switch

 

Looks like you're fine without the relays afterall. That's a whole load of wiring win

Edited April 19, 2015 by Scott (see edit history)

[j_jza80]

Thanks for the great input Scott.

 

While I am confident and experienced with installing electrics in cars, I haven't done much circuit design.

 

Sorry if I'm being stupid, but where in that thread does it say the switch is rated for the seat heater circuit?

 

Would it not be best to still use a couple of relays, to increase the life of the switch if nothing else?

[MattP]

Before they cause a problem in this UK Climate pull the nasty battery tray bolts out and swap them with stainless bolts

 

I think they are the only rusty bolts I found on my car so far and I caught them just in time before I believe they would snap looks like yours are the same.

 

 

I am sad seeing things like that I know but other than that good work Mr J I hate wiring.

[j_jza80]

So, today's little lot

 

First of all, I removed the rear bumper in preparation for the bodyshop tomorrow. The bumper has a few marks on it, but rather than get it sprayed while the other bits are being done, I'm going to hang on until a UK bumper appears

 

Next up was getting rid of the worst bits of double sided tape left over from the skirts and spats.

 

This was done with what's known as a 'toffee wheel'

 

I then had Al Massey over to roll my rear wheelarches. Although I'm not sure if my wheels would need the clearance, I thought it best to get it done before it goes into the bodyshop. That foresight had paid off, as some of the paint cracked while rolling. (No fault of Al's, just due to some previous paintwork.)

Very happy with the results, the arches look 100% straight. Thanks Al.

 

I didn't have time to start any of the other jobs I wanted to do today, and it looks like it's going to rain here, so that's it for today.

 

A little sneak peak of my intercooler pipe setup

The HKS pipes have been shown on this thread before. They're to be fitted with standard Black Samco hoses and Murray constant tension clamps. Not a cheap setup, but that is the price of reliability. At least SFS gave me a decent discount on the clamps

[MattP]

Yesssssssssss Murray Clamps for the win.... Looks like you got the same silicone hose I used as well as the lower Whifbitz ones wouldnt fit.

[j_jza80]

Before they cause a problem in this UK Climate pull the nasty battery tray bolts out and swap them with stainless bolts

 

I think they are the only rusty bolts I found on my car so far and I caught them just in time before I believe they would snap looks like yours are the same.

 

 

I am sad seeing things like that I know but other than that good work Mr J I hate wiring.

 

Yesssssssssss Murray Clamps for the win.... Looks like you got the same silicone hose I used as well as the lower Whifbitz ones wouldnt fit.

 

I've just had the battery tray out, and the bolts looked fine. But I will heed your advice, and either copper slip the sh*t out of those bolts, or buy stainless. Stainless isn't always a good idea though, I was advised by someone much more knowledgeable than me that using stainless bolts in regular steel can cause corrosion.

 

Jurgen recommended the Murray clamps (thanks mate ). If they're good enough for a 1500hp GTR, they should be fine on mine.

 

Oh, and keep pointing out any issues you see, by the look of your car you certainly know what you're doing.

[MattP]

I've just had the battery tray out, and the bolts looked fine. But I will heed your advice, and either copper slip the sh*t out of those bolts, or buy stainless. Stainless isn't always a good idea though, I was advised by someone much more knowledgeable than me that using stainless bolts in regular steel can cause corrosion.

 

Jurgen recommended the Murray clamps (thanks mate ). If they're good enough for a 1500hp GTR, they should be fine on mine.

 

Oh, and keep pointing out any issues you see, by the look of your car you certainly know what you're doing.

 

That exactly I just removed some SS I had used on the Igniter bracket and Engine Earth points as I didnt realise that the steel is a much better conductor than SS..

 

I was on the Phone to CW about this the other day I learn something New everytime I touch the car to be honest haha.

 

 

Jurgen had my bolts out of the tray and had copperslipped them but im a pedantic a-hole and the water seems to sit in the battery tray after I wash the car thats why I swapped them but as you said copper slip most threads and Corrosion should stay away...