DShox Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 Help! My Supra 98 TT is now finally ready to be declared perfect - well almost! I have sourced two rear drop links (one either side) and hopefully I should get em next week. The problem is a fairly loud thud every time I go over a slight defect in the road - so the garage said the links need replacing. So I've paid £84 for both - I dont wanna pay anymore for a garage to fit em so I thought about doing it myself Bearing in mind I've never heard of a 'drop link' - can anyone point me in the right direction on how to sort this??? I've just noticed another thread sighting the same problem - so can you guys assist here? Finally, there's an armour plated bug flying into my backroom light - I've been hoping it'll get tired and fry but it doesn't give up...what do i do? Much appreciated! D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 replacing the drop-links (also called stabiliser-bar links or anti-roll bar links) has sorted my car also, except for a slight knock from the OSR. I'm afraid you will need an angle-grinder to get the old ones off though. If you have ordered the genuine Toyota drop-links, you will need to buy some nuts from Toyota too. They are 14mm Metric-Fine (finer thread than regular Metric), and you will not find them at any hardware stores. The existing ones will be ground off with your angle-grinder of course. After three hours of driving around Engineers suppliers and hardware-stores on saturday morning, I made a last-ditch attempt to see if my local Toyota dealership workshop was open, and to my joy, their parts dept. was open and supplied me with the necessary nuts. They need to be locking nuts (Nyloc or similar). The ones I got were perfect and had a crushed end which made them lock. Apparently they are used on exhausts. I'm afraid I don't have the part number. The rears are easy compared to the front - you have good access to get the angle-grinder on the nuts. I recommend you do the lower nuts on each side first, then the anti-roll bar will be loose so you can rotate it where you want, making it easier to work on the upper nuts. You'll see what I mean.. the drop-link is basically a horizontal link between the anti-roll bar and the wishbone, so it's bolted to the anti-roll bar at the top, and the wishbone at the bottom, on each side of the car. Do the bottoms first then the anti-roll bar isn't connected to the wishbones any more and can be rotated around for doing the tops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 http://www2.css-networks.com/droplink.jpg Above is a picture from the EPC. I've circled the droplink. You can see the part-number for the proper nuts so if you've got time (2 days for non-stock items from Toyota) I'd recommend you order those. Probably be about £4 for the four that you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 You'll need a 5mm allen-key for holding the threaded bolt still while you do up the nuts on the new ones too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DShox Posted August 30, 2005 Author Share Posted August 30, 2005 Carlos - thanks a million for this! my dad has some good tools and is 1000x more practical than I so I'll no doubt have him on hand... any ideas about the bug? - it got tired and i found it sitting in the middle of the room...stuck it in a glass and tried chucking it out twice and quickly slamming the door - but it gets right back in before i can slam it! its now sitting in a glass by my front door - i'll try again later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 I'm afraid I can't help with the bug Just got rid of one - my sister budgie. I really can't stand squarking birds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 any ideas about the bug? How about: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DShox Posted August 31, 2005 Author Share Posted August 31, 2005 i did it! i win! muhuhahahaa - i turned off all the lights and hoped for the best...bet its waiting by the door first thing in the morning! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merckx Posted August 31, 2005 Share Posted August 31, 2005 Bearing in mind I've never heard of a 'drop link' - can anyone point me in the right direction on how to sort this??? I've just noticed another thread sighting the same problem - so can you guys assist here? Finally, there's an armour plated bug flying into my backroom light - I've been hoping it'll get tired and fry but it doesn't give up...what do i do? Much appreciated! D I've done the front on mine. If there isn't a hex socket in the stud there'll be some flats behind the rubber boot. Use a 14mm spanner pushed behind the boot to hold it. The new ones I fitted had the hex socket so you can use an allen key. Hold it with an allen key and tighten up with a spanner, it should stop rotating now. It's possible to use a torque wrench now if you wish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DShox Posted August 31, 2005 Author Share Posted August 31, 2005 ta chaps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soonto_HAS_soop Posted March 21, 2006 Share Posted March 21, 2006 Thread ressurection..... Anyone thought about changing the standard ones for universal items such as these?? Says that they are noisy, but what benefit would you get from them, than say the standard OEM ones? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucifer Posted March 21, 2006 Share Posted March 21, 2006 Thread ressurection..... Anyone thought about changing the standard ones for universal items such as these?? Says that they are noisy, but what benefit would you get from them, than say the standard OEM ones? Yes I have opted for these on my project and the only advantage you will get is you can adjust the ARB stiffness. Noise is vastly increased tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soonto_HAS_soop Posted March 21, 2006 Share Posted March 21, 2006 So might be worth it for a track car with TRD ARBs then, but not a standard road car then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucifer Posted March 21, 2006 Share Posted March 21, 2006 So might be worth it for a track car with TRD ARBs then, but not a standard road car then. MIne is both, invaluable eitherway IMHO if you like tinkering for the ultimate setup. You watch I bet $10 CW will chime in and tell us how rubbish they are... I bet ya I do! LOL everytime I buy something he does this! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted March 21, 2006 Share Posted March 21, 2006 MIne is both, invaluable eitherway IMHO if you like tinkering for the ultimate setup. You watch I bet $10 CW will chime in and tell us how rubbish they are... I bet ya I do! LOL everytime I buy something he does this! Did you see his Skyline mods? ftp://ftp.chriswilson.tv/R33GTST_Front_Suspension_Mods/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucifer Posted March 21, 2006 Share Posted March 21, 2006 Cool, he might approve yet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 21, 2006 Share Posted March 21, 2006 MIne is both, invaluable eitherway IMHO if you like tinkering for the ultimate setup. You watch I bet $10 CW will chime in and tell us how rubbish they are... I bet ya I do! LOL everytime I buy something he does this! You called? Unless you drill extra holes in the ends of the bars to alter the leverage the lever arm sections have, these gizmos won't alter the STIFFNESS of the arms one jot, but they will allow you to take any preload out of the bars if the chassis is twisted or you have none stock springs of poor length balance. The stock links have no lost motion (rubber) in them, so they won't change reaction rates of the bars, either. If they knock it's `cos they have *rap joints in them that have lost motion, a decent PTFE or Kevlar mix lined joint will be silent. For the same reason el cheapo "pillow ball" top damper mounts knock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucifer Posted March 21, 2006 Share Posted March 21, 2006 You called? Unless you drill extra holes in the ends of the bars to alter the leverage the lever arm sections have, these gizmos won't alter the STIFFNESS of the arms one jot, but they will allow you to take any preload out of the bars if the chassis is twisted or you have none stock springs of poor length balance. The stock links have no lost motion (rubber) in them, so they won't change reaction rates of the bars, either. If they knock it's `cos they have *rap joints in them that have lost motion, a decent PTFE or Kevlar mix lined joint will be silent. For the same reason el cheapo "pillow ball" top damper mounts knock. Yes that is what I was planning to do with the Cusco bar set I have as they are TOO stiff for road use. Same as the Eiback setup with 3 hols if you have seen those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 21, 2006 Share Posted March 21, 2006 Yes that is what I was planning to do with the Cusco bar set I have as they are TOO stiff for road use. Same as the Eiback setup with 3 hols if you have seen those. So is there enough room to drill a hole further towards the end of the arms on the Cusco bars? Any pics, would be interested in what diameter they are to be considered too stiff? Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b_have Posted March 21, 2006 Share Posted March 21, 2006 I use whiteline (Aus) ARBs with their own drop links and three load adj mounting points. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted March 22, 2006 Share Posted March 22, 2006 So I've paid £84 for both what a complete rip off, I sell them for £19 each + postage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Need4Speed Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 Are the UK and J-spec droplinks the same? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DShox Posted June 21, 2006 Author Share Posted June 21, 2006 nic - thats a great price for links! £38 + post beats my £84 + pick up. btw - for anyone trying to shake off road noise and suspect drop links, just take a good look at the rubber seals to ensure they aint perished first. dont spend the money if they look ok cos its likely to be top-mounts on your shocks or just a v hard shock setup (i.e. v high spring poundage). Final port of call is worn wheel bearings which can be checked v quickly at a garage. D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Need4Speed Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 Even if you get charged VAT and import duty, that's still a good price. I've changed my shocks and top mounts, it's def. not the wheel bearings and it's not the tailgate knocking, so drop links are the next thing to try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Getrag Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 Hehe, fantastic thread reserection. And I think I'll be in contact with you soon Nic. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=72552 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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