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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Trying to help a member. Mechanical issues, car holding back **UPDATE- Post 28**


ripped_fear

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one thing i will say on a rotor arm and cap,

is it made our car idle a lot better after changing them ,

Iwasnt happy with the pitting seen on the inside of the dizzy cap and the rotor arm wasn't much better , aerotop na auto , after changing them it ran a lot better , would also check to see if you ever have smelt fuel when its running rough " unburnt fuel so to speak " normally a sign of weak poor spark or bad vacum leak ,

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Did you look into the MIL and shutdown from when first sorting out the radiator? Sounds like there may be an issue with the sensor at the bottom of the radiator. I know if that's un-plugged the car won't fire on a TT (Well it wouldn't for me anyway).

 

It all sounds to have started when the MIL light came on. Whatever caused that code/stall is potentially still causing issues.

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Guest SupraScott88

What you put in the original post sounds kinda similar to what my car is doing.

The alterator had to get refurbed in my car as it had seemingly corroded from sitting, and there was no output.Seemingly toyota refurbed it before i bought the car, i dunno if it is linked but the acceleration thing you mentioned i seem to be getting the same thing, were if plant the accelerator,the acceleration isnt smooth,power goes down initially then jerks on and off every other second then seems to be ok at really high revs, only way i can describe it is like a big gust of wind is hitting the front of the car every second till it hits high revs. Is this something similar to what you are getting?

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What you put in the original post sounds kinda similar to what my car is doing.

The alterator had to get refurbed in my car as it had seemingly corroded from sitting, and there was no output.Seemingly toyota refurbed it before i bought the car, i dunno if it is linked but the acceleration thing you mentioned i seem to be getting the same thing, were if plant the accelerator,the acceleration isnt smooth,power goes down initially then jerks on and off every other second then seems to be ok at really high revs, only way i can describe it is like a big gust of wind is hitting the front of the car every second till it hits high revs. Is this something similar to what you are getting?

 

No not really. Its had a delay when planting the throttle, then it wakes up, feels as though you put your foot down a few seconds later than you actually do. And generally slightly down on power across the whole rev range. Sounds like your issue is different.

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I have the exact same problem on my supra :/ It came after my NA-t conversion and I thought it was the emanage blue but no it cause something else? It feels like a strong wind coming in front of the car trying to push it back.

 

What did you do suprascoot88? Did it go away? When the car is idle it is a bit unstable in the low rpm.

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Guest SupraScott88
I have the exact same problem on my supra :/ It came after my NA-t conversion and I thought it was the emanage blue but no it cause something else? It feels like a strong wind coming in front of the car trying to push it back.

 

What did you do suprascoot88? Did it go away? When the car is idle it is a bit unstable in the low rpm.

 

Tbh i havent really done anything about it, mine doesnt seem to have any probs in low idle, so im wondering if it maybe a dirty spark plug, or a misfire, its odd cus if accelerator isnt fully depressed i can redline and there is no hesitation, it only if i have it planted, from about 2500 up to about 5000 rpm it has hesitation then it seems to clear after that :/

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Ok update. Just worked on the car again

 

trying to get to the bottom of the error code 41 and 42.

 

We removed the throttle body gave it a good check over, removed all the sensors etc.

 

Re fitted it but with my TPS of my car, idle was only bouncing a tiny bit, very small. Bled the system and got a bit of air out, probably just from removing the hoses attached to the TB.

 

We then re fitted the old TPS to see if the error code would re appear. It didn't!

 

Took for a spin and running much better however right at the tail end it stared lagging again, minuscule amount though.

 

The idle is sitting much steadier but when firing it does dip then sits good.

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How much air?

 

minimal tbh, it took a couple of gulps if you know what I mean, but it would have had a small amount of air as we had removed the hose on the TB. That was all.

 

We are unsure if it sorted the slow warming issue, will find out tomorrow once its stone cold and luke can take it for a run.

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Drove it to work today and and was lagging miniscule amounts but more than last night. Still feels like it chokes slightly. Idle can drop as low as 500rpm. Warming up still takes as long as it did.

 

Something helped a little but I can't help but think there is more to it.

 

Running rich still.

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Haven't look under the the bonnet of an NA for a while, but do you have the engine diagnostics box next to the inlet manifold? It's a small black box with Engine Diagnostics written on it. :D

 

Where is the car? I might be able to come over and take a look over the weekend if you're about?

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We've checked the diagnostics via the blinker. Took it to a garage today who told me to use a proper tool. I don't know if he was just trying to swindle money out of me but he wouldn't do weekends anyway.

 

I've looked at using about 10 garages today and not having any luck with anyone wanting to touch it, having the right tools or just open in general.

 

I'm starting to lose faith in garages to be honest...

 

Where I used to live, garages wouldn't hesitate to take my car in any time of the week and often without charging big bucks but nobody seems to want to touch it nowadays and I find it hard to do weekdays at the moment.

 

I have a feeling its a rather simple problem like an o2 sensor or something but I really want to be sure before splashing out money over nothing!

Edited by Attero (see edit history)
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Clear the codes. Does code 41 come back? If so you *MUST* test and reset the TPS exactly as described in the workshop manual. You are just grasping at straws at the moment, and now you are talking of changing sensors without knowing which may be faulty or maladjusted. The code doesn't just come up for no reason.

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Cleared the codes the other day, done a fair number of miles since. Just checked the codes now but nothing is stored.

 

The only time I've seen the check engine light come on when in use was when we were bleeding the system after installing a new alternator.

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