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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

manually move electric seat


v6shep

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How did you do it? I've never tried, or needed to, just wondering in case the motor in mine ever decides to die.

 

It's a nightmare.

 

There is a plastic plate at the front of the seat, two screws. Once removed you will see two gold coloured nuts, one on each side of the seat. If you turn the nuts the side of the seat will move backward and forward. You should basically move each nut one after the other say three turns as the seat starts to twist and get jammed in the runners if you don't.

 

Problem is, if the seat is in the far back position, turning the nuts clockwise can actually undo them from the thread. If the seat is forward, then turning them is not a problem as you are tightening the nut with the motion and the seat will go backwards. When removing my seats from the NA after the mechanism failed, my nut came off as I tried to draw the seat forward and I ended up needing to either weld the nut on or bash the end to ensure the nut could never come off again.

 

H.

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It's a nightmare.

 

There is a plastic plate at the front of the seat, two screws. Once removed you will see two gold coloured nuts, one on each side of the seat. If you turn the nuts the side of the seat will move backward and forward. You should basically move each nut one after the other say three turns as the seat starts to twist and get jammed in the runners if you don't.

 

Problem is, if the seat is in the far back position, turning the nuts clockwise can actually undo them from the thread. If the seat is forward, then turning them is not a problem as you are tightening the nut with the motion and the seat will go backwards. When removing my seats from the NA after the mechanism failed, my nut came off as I tried to draw the seat forward and I ended up needing to either weld the nut on or bash the end to ensure the nut could never come off again.

 

H.

 

Wow, sounds worse than I had anticipated.

 

My drivers side is quite far back (just touching the rear seats), but hopefully not too far if I ever needed to do it.

 

Good explanation! :)

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Wow, sounds worse than I had anticipated.

 

My drivers side is quite far back (just touching the rear seats), but hopefully not too far if I ever needed to do it.

 

Good explanation! :)

 

It's ok as long as the nut stays on the thread. Toyota should really have used a castle nut with a pin to ensure you can turn it either way. Most seats will be far back as mine were. If you turn each nut too much as it jams, the nut then comes off the thread as you wind it forward. I think if you have done it before, you wouldn't fall into the same trap again.

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  • 2 years later...

Resurrecting an old thread. I am having the same issue, my electric seat is all the way back and has stopped working. I have purchased some more gears and have tried removing the seat today, however the two gold bolts have just come off the thread. I did them one turn each side and after about 5 turns each the bolts came off the thread. This has moved the seat about 2cm but I still have another 10-15cm before I can get to the rear bolts.

 

How did you guys sort this problem if you seats are all the way back?

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Resurrecting an old thread. I am having the same issue, my electric seat is all the way back and has stopped working. I have purchased some more gears and have tried removing the seat today, however the two gold bolts have just come off the thread. I did them one turn each side and after about 5 turns each the bolts came off the thread. This has moved the seat about 2cm but I still have another 10-15cm before I can get to the rear bolts.

 

How did you guys sort this problem if you seats are all the way back?

 

Rick,

 

That is one hell of a problem if you are going to keep the seats.

 

You need to either put locktite on the threads and then struggle with them afterwards or bash the end of the rod with a punch or screwdriver to get the end of the rod (domed) to flare out and stop the nut coming off. Problem is that the second method pretty much wrecks the seat mechanism.

 

This is not an easy job by any stretch if the nuts come off. If they didn't it would be an absolute doddle. You are either lucky or not.

 

H.

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Rick,

 

That is one hell of a problem if you are going to keep the seats.

 

You need to either put locktite on the threads and then struggle with them afterwards or bash the end of the rod with a punch or screwdriver to get the end of the rod (domed) to flare out and stop the nut coming off. Problem is that the second method pretty much wrecks the seat mechanism.

 

This is not an easy job by any stretch if the nuts come off. If they didn't it would be an absolute doddle. You are either lucky or not.

 

H.

 

Did you manage to sort yours in the end? Is there any other way as I would prefer not to take a hammer to the end of the threads.

 

If the nuts didn't screw off the thread and there was something in place to stop it doing so, would this then move the seat forward.

 

If I screwed the nuts back on as tight as poss would it leave enough thread to get another nut on to act as a lock, then start to unscrew the first nut bringing the seat forward?

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Rick,

 

I got sorted by bashing the rods but I was scrapping the seat anyway as I was given a replacement by a member on here. There is not enough thread to get two nuts on or it's the first thing I would have tried.

 

I think some kind of thread lock or PTFE tape that will cause some resistance, may be your only option.

 

H.

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Rick,

 

I got sorted by bashing the rods but I was scrapping the seat anyway as I was given a replacement by a member on here. There is not enough thread to get two nuts on or it's the first thing I would have tried.

 

I think some kind of thread lock or PTFE tape that will cause some resistance, may be your only option.

 

H.

 

 

Cheers, will try some medium strength thread lock see if it does the trick.

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Cheers, will try some medium strength thread lock see if it does the trick.

 

I would wrap some PTFE or insulation tape around the thread and then force the nut on. Hopefully it will jam enough to cause enough resistance when you turn it the other way. Once the seat is out, you can find a more robust way of getting the nuts back off and cleaning up the thread.

 

H.

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  • 5 years later...
On 2/26/2017 at 11:12 AM, r2ck_p said:

Resurrecting an old thread. I am having the same issue, my electric seat is all the way back and has stopped working. I have purchased some more gears and have tried removing the seat today, however the two gold bolts have just come off the thread. I did them one turn each side and after about 5 turns each the bolts came off the thread. This has moved the seat about 2cm but I still have another 10-15cm before I can get to the rear bolts.

 

How did you guys sort this problem if you seats are all the way back?

I've got this issue on my drivers seat. I can move the seat using the method you guys have described, but where did you buy replacement gears from? It's the white plastic gear from the nearside gearing that's had the thread stripped and needs replacing. The only places I've found so far which offer replacements are a company in Oz and one in NZ!

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On 10/29/2022 at 1:49 PM, JuanChanagain said:

I've got this issue on my drivers seat. I can move the seat using the method you guys have described, but where did you buy replacement gears from? It's the white plastic gear from the nearside gearing that's had the thread stripped and needs replacing. The only places I've found so far which offer replacements are a company in Oz and one in NZ!

I attempted to replace the gears and failed I think I got them the states,

I don’t know anyone that’s managed to do it 

I ended up buying old cloth seats and swapping the base

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  • 5 weeks later...
1 hour ago, TuneR said:


^^^That website seems quiet expensive now, if someone near you did 3d printing these could easily be run off imo. They usually have scanners and could easily edit the broken parts.

I think that is cheap! And they are proper injection moulded parts.

After designing and modelling them, then printing them, and the very limited numbers that would sell, I would sell them for a hell of a lot more than that!

Also personally don't think they would be strong enough 3D printed.

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20 minutes ago, Burna said:

I think that is cheap! And they are proper injection moulded parts.

After designing and modelling them, then printing them, and the very limited numbers that would sell, I would sell them for a hell of a lot more than that!

Also personally don't think they would be strong enough 3D printed.

I'm sure at the time they are correctly priced but i think the tech has moved on and there are probably strong enough 3d printing filaments now. Quick check on thingiverse shows a Saab electric seat cog.

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