Chris Wilson Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 That all sounds perfectly normal. I have high hopes for the FCD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattP Posted July 20, 2014 Author Share Posted July 20, 2014 This is what I have found a HKS FCD and a Speedmate VVTI MPH Converter are wired in.... I have disconnected the red wire from the HKS FCD and isolated the wire but now im stuck as to which wires you want me to do want there are loads of yellows and blues everywhere and also what is does this mean tracer wire? "black with yellow tracer wires from the ecu and from the MAP sensor signal pin back together again" Im useless with electronics Full stop is this complicated its all one big jumble to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattP Posted July 20, 2014 Author Share Posted July 20, 2014 is the car now undrivable with the HKS power lead disconnected? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 OK, maybe the HKS one uses a different colour coding. Do exactly this: Cut the red wire to the FCD. Insulate the end that DOES NOT go to the FCD. Cut the other two wires to the FCD that are NOT black. Join the two different coloured wires together that you have just cut that DO NOT go to the FCD. If you follow these wires (maybe yellow and white wires from the photo?) they will be spliced into two yellow wires with black stripes. (Or black wires with yellow stripes, as you prefer ). These were originally joined together, one side coming from the MAP sensor signal pin, the other to the ECU. The engine may or may not run with the FCD totally disconnected, you need to rejoin the yellow with black stripe wires that were originally cut to fit the FCD. So, basically you are re joining the two ends of the yellow with black stripe wires that were severed to fit the FCD in between. You are isolating the FCD from 12V +, although the latter is safety thing, and not vital. I would nonetheless do this. What's the other black box? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattP Posted July 20, 2014 Author Share Posted July 20, 2014 OK, maybe the HKS one uses a different colour coding. Do exactly this: Cut the red wire to the FCD. Insulate the end that DOES NOT go to the FCD. Cut the other two wires to the FCD that are NOT black. Join the two different coloured wires together that you have just cut that DO NOT go to the FCD. If you follow these wires (maybe yellow and white wires from the photo?) they will be spliced into two yellow wires with black stripes. (Or black wires with yellow stripes, as you prefer ). These were originally joined together, one side coming from the MAP sensor signal pin, the other to the ECU. The engine may or may not run with the FCD totally disconnected, you need to rejoin the yellow with black stripe wires that were originally cut to fit the FCD. So, basically you are re joining the two ends of the yellow with black stripe wires that were severed to fit the FCD in between. You are isolating the FCD from 12V +, although the latter is safety thing, and not vital. I would nonetheless do this. What's the other black box? It says on the box itself that it's a "SPEEDMATE VVTI MPH CONVERTER' JM Imports fit them to delimit the car from 112mph and for the counter to read in MPH not KMH. You are indeed all knowing Chris I will try your method immediately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Feel free to ring me if you like, number in sig. I am far FAR from all knowing about electronics, but striving to improve Leave the other black box for now, let's see what bypassing the FCD does. Follow the white and yeloow wires from the FCD. Do they indeed join yellow with black stripe wires at the ECU plug and engine loom? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattP Posted July 20, 2014 Author Share Posted July 20, 2014 It says on the box itself that it's a "SPEEDMATE VVTI MPH CONVERTER' JM Imports fit them to delimit the car from 112mph and for the counter to read in MPH not KMH. You are indeed all knowing Chris I will try your method immediately. Got it the black and yellow wire was cut in half from the stock loom and has been spliced into the two HKS FCD wires. they were just wrapped together and insulation taped over. just joining the original ends together now and then fire it up I assume? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattP Posted July 20, 2014 Author Share Posted July 20, 2014 This is the stock yellow and black wire we have just joined and taped up with electrical tape... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Yep, fire her up, fingers crossed. That mess wants sorting out in due course. Soldered connections and adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattP Posted July 20, 2014 Author Share Posted July 20, 2014 Yep, fire her up, fingers crossed. That mess wants sorting out in due course. Soldered connections and adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. As mentioned Chris I had JM do all the work on import last August I will get John Hodge to sort the wiring out when hes finished doing Tonys car he is just to busy at the minute. Anyway started her up (battery has been off while I fiddled with the ECU so ECU reset) she idled at 15-1400rpm no missfire then gradually as the water temp came up dropped and settled at the RPM the 2 pictures show below. The car sounded better there was no audible Missfire or smell of Fuel other than expected from a double Decat Vehicle there are 3 of us here and we couldnt hear anything negative so fingers crossed when it drys up we will take it for a spin and report back.. Please see attached pictures Chris is this normal Idle for a VVTI TT (when upto Temprature). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattP Posted July 20, 2014 Author Share Posted July 20, 2014 Click the Picture below Chris there should be a video does this sound OK? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 I think you can assume it's sorted, idles sounds fine and idle speed is fine, probably needs a good blast to de -foul the plugs now. Will send address for the crate of beer directly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattP Posted July 20, 2014 Author Share Posted July 20, 2014 I think you can assume it's sorted, idles sounds fine and idle speed is fine, probably needs a good blast to de -foul the plugs now. Will send address for the crate of beer directly Well when your right your right Chris just been out for 15mins giving the car a blast at around 1bar on just the Restrictor Ring and its going 100% now and the idle is good with no sound of missfire. A Job well done... Now what replacement for the HKS unit should I be buying... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 I have never had any real trouble with the HKS ones to be honest, I would not avoid just buying another. I don't think you'll find any Greddy ones around nowadays. An MR2 Turbo Greddy one is the same part number as a 2JZ-GTE one, if you hit lucky. I am investigating another type, but it's too early to suggest it will come any time soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.