Jellybean Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 Hi I got the car 4 wheel aligned the weekend and the front wheels balanced The vibration is not as bad as before, but still noticeable enough to cause me to lack confidence in her , I did check tyre pressures and they are all 34 psi with the exception of the drivers rear 29 psi ( maybe a slow puncture, need to look at it again) Other than the wheel balance , anything else I need to look out for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 Bent rim or dodgy tyre? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abz Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 I had it years ago on a buckled wheel, the chap said most likely caused by a huge pot hole at speed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted June 24, 2014 Author Share Posted June 24, 2014 (edited) They are Volk GTC wheels and she was fine when I put her off the road , has only done a few hundred KM's since and 80% motorway Too much of a coincidence to be a buckled wheel , I did have the wheels apart to refurb them but she is a two piece wheel and all torqued up to 28nm If anything I say it is that , but I taught a wheel balancing machine would show up a buckle in the wheel? Maybe important info, but it is largely dependant on the motorway road surface, I can have zero vibration for short periods Edited June 24, 2014 by Jellybean (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted June 24, 2014 Author Share Posted June 24, 2014 (edited) Maybe important info, but it is largely dependant on the motorway road surface, I can have zero vibration for short periods In saying that the MX5 doesn't mirror this behaviour, maybe because it was tuned by Tony&Guy Edited June 24, 2014 by Jellybean (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 Flat spot on the tyre ? How longs it been sitting ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted June 25, 2014 Author Share Posted June 25, 2014 Flat spot on the tyre ? How longs it been sitting ? Was on Axel stands and tyres where off the wheels for Wheel refurb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 sticky brake caliper? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Budz86 Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 Wheel bearing? Easy enough to check for; jack the car up, grab the wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock and wiggle it back and forth then repeat at 6 and 12 o'clock. Any movement indicates a worn bearing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted June 25, 2014 Author Share Posted June 25, 2014 sticky brake caliper? All refurbed too Going to get them rebalanced the weekend and go from there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted June 25, 2014 Author Share Posted June 25, 2014 Wheel bearing? Easy enough to check for; jack the car up, grab the wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock and wiggle it back and forth then repeat at 6 and 12 o'clock. Any movement indicates a worn bearing too much of a coincidence, considering I didnt have an issue before the car was off the road What has changed since was the tyres removed for a wheel refurb , Brake Calipers refurbed But I will check the suspension to be safe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 (edited) I'd get the wheels back on the balancing machine to check them first then go from there. Should be obvious to rule out buckles etc when there spun up on the balancing machine. What did you do to the wheels when you refurbed them, you haven't got a build up of paint or powder coat between the mating faces by any chance making them run out of true ? Edited June 25, 2014 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted June 25, 2014 Author Share Posted June 25, 2014 I'd get the wheels back on the balancing machine to check them first then go from there. Should be obvious to rule out buckles etc when there spun up on the balancing machine. What did you do to the wheels when you refurbed them, you haven't got a build up of paint or powder coat between the mating faces by any chance making them run out of true ? Yeah going to get them back on the balancing machine , First time I used company B. Normally I use company A but that originally put the tyres back on and balanced them, the wheels needed to be balanced after I put them on the car So third time luckily! Wheels did not have any paint , just the barrels polished; the mounting points on the wheel were not touched (5 spoke mounts to the barrel) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abz Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 They are Volk GTC wheels and she was fine when I put her off the road , has only done a few hundred KM's since and 80% motorway Too much of a coincidence to be a buckled wheel , I did have the wheels apart to refurb them but she is a two piece wheel and all torqued up to 28nm If anything I say it is that , but I taught a wheel balancing machine would show up a buckle in the wheel? Maybe important info, but it is largely dependant on the motorway road surface, I can have zero vibration for short periods Think from memory they only balance from 30mph, the chap that noticed mine said it was an ever so slight vibration and it did only came in at 90mph+ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bailey Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 As Dunk said, gets the wheels back on the balancing machine and check them. I myself made a mistake of not balancing a wheel correctly at work and it caused wheel wobble at a certain speed. Start with the basic things first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 I would suspect them having the wrong size hole in them to fit the spigot on the hubs. maybe missing adaptors, plastic adaptors? Wrong wheel nuts? Get them balanced *ON THE CAR*, there's still the odd place with the right gear. if they balance up off the car, but are out of balance when checked ON the car, you need to find out why. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted June 26, 2014 Author Share Posted June 26, 2014 I would suspect them having the wrong size hole in them to fit the spigot on the hubs. maybe missing adaptors, plastic adaptors? Wrong wheel nuts? Get them balanced *ON THE CAR*, there's still the odd place with the right gear. if they balance up off the car, but are out of balance when checked ON the car, you need to find out why. I put 25mm spacers upfornt, I had 15mm, both project kics but they are not hub centric. In saying that they did balance the fronts before with these spacers but I might bite the bullet and get the H&R Hub centric spacers just to rule them out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 No way would i use non hub centric spacers, i think you could well have found your problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 That WILL be the issue, not only will you never keep the wheels in long term balance, they are extremely dangerous. All shock loads should be taken through the hub's "snout", via the well fitting hole in the centre of the wheel. With those, the wheel studs are taking all shock loads. Not only that, they look like cheap cut threaded studs, not rolled threads. Disaster in the making, if I had a child I wouldn't let them go out in it, (but might encourage the wife to take it for a good blast....). It's not that the wheel and tyre are not in perfect balance, they probably are, but they are running offset to the centre of the stub axle. Even a few thousandths of an inch out will cause wobble, and generate huge forces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 BTW, quite rightly, in Germany those are illegal and you would get prosecuted for using or selling them. Over here it seems any *~#@ gets sold and not many people will realize just how dangerous they are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 And finally! Lay a straight edge over the outside face of the adaptors. The studs in the car's original hubs the adaptors bolt to must *NOT* *NOT* *NOT* protrude beyond the outside face, as many wheel rims will sit on the ends of the studs, rather than the face of the spacer. Those look awfully close to being suspect. I believe this is why some owners of new shape Skylines have had wheel failures on track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted June 26, 2014 Author Share Posted June 26, 2014 Thanks Chris, Dunk , going to take a look at them again the weekend, The studs in the car's original hubs don't protrude beyond the outside face, but I will triple check again. Going to get the H&R ones for the front, I have ARP studs and slip on spacers on the rear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted July 3, 2014 Author Share Posted July 3, 2014 Hey Chris Can I ask you a Q: Some people argue over hub rings are not needed , how can the the shock load go through the spacer as they are plastic is their argument What confuses me I see some use plastic hub rings but if they are plastic , obviously the shock load is not taken through the snout of the hub, they are just used to center the wheel and the studs take the shock load I presume plastic hub rings are a bad idea, and should not be sold either? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 I do not like adaptors at all, and proper wheels will not need them as they'll be machined to fit the hub. if you *DO* use them make sure they are steel or aluminium allow, plastic ones are NOT suitable. the wheel studs should work *ONLY* in tension and see no vertical shock loads at all. They will *NOT* centre the rim properly without them if the hole in the rim is bigger than the snout on the hub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted July 3, 2014 Author Share Posted July 3, 2014 Thanks Chris! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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