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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Line lock problem


drift_bear

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After I installed my line lock kit I went to test it and nothing happened. When I put my foot hard on the brake and press the switch I can here the solenoid click and the switch lights up, but as soon as I take my foot off the brake to start the burnout, the car will start to move and not lock up.

 

I've bled the brakes again since then and they seem fine, the only other thing is we never fitted the fuse when we installed the kit. Would that cause the problem of the brakes not locking up or does it lot matter cause the solenoid is still clicking to engage. I've even removed the abs fuse to see if that would help and it didn't help, just done the same as above and not lock up

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You still have to press the pedal. Dump the clutch and jump onto the brake. You need master cylinder pressure on the front brakes to keep them locked.

 

No you don't ben, you press down your brake pedal, then you press the line lock button and relese the foot brake and that activetes a valve thet will stop the brake fluid returning back to the master cylinder and keeps the front wheels locked while you do your burn out

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No the way they should be plumbed in to work is definitely:

 

Apply brakes, press button, release brake pedal, front brakes still locked because valve is closed & pressure can't disperse, spin up rears, press button again, pressure drops, front brakes release, car starts to move forward.

 

They can be considered as a parking brake alternative.

 

Looking at the side of the box mine is still in it does say that the product isn't suitable for cars with ABS, that may be more to do with the associated pipework than actually causing the ABS to go into meltdown when the lock is used. That might explain why removing the fuse didn't solve the problem.

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No the way they should be plumbed in to work is definitely:

 

Apply brakes, press button, release brake pedal, front brakes still locked because valve is closed & pressure can't disperse, spin up rears, press button again, pressure drops, front brakes release, car starts to move forward.

 

They can be considered as a parking brake alternative.

 

Looking at the side of the box mine is still in it does say that the product isn't suitable for cars with ABS, that may be more to do with the associated pipework than actually causing the ABS to go into meltdown when the lock is used. That might explain why removing the fuse didn't solve the problem.

 

Lee has fitted the kit to various cars with abs and even he said it wouldn't cause the problem. We think it could be a buggered solenoid tbh. It clicks when you engage it and the brake pedal is solid once you take your foot off it, but still moves freely.

 

Mine is plumbed in the correct way cause I checked mine against parry's and it's the exact same

 

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/15/usy6yguh.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/15/aqynune6.jpg

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Where in the system have you plumbed it?

 

ABS should have no bearing on it if the brake fluid is trapped in the system under pressure. If the fluid is trapped, it can't release and re-apply the calipers as there should be a restriction in the line. I.e. If the fluid can't return from the caliper, the brake should stay locked.

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Where in the system have you plumbed it?

 

ABS should have no bearing on it if the brake fluid is trapped in the system under pressure. If the fluid is trapped, it can't release and re-apply the calipers as there should be a restriction in the line. I.e. If the fluid can't return from the caliper, the brake should stay locked.

 

The abs isn't the problem ben, I've already been through this with lee and parry. Mine is plumbed in the same as his and his works with abs. That's why we think it's a faulty solenoid

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Are your brakes OK? As in... do they stop well?

 

If you're pressing on the brake, closing the solenoid and checking the brakes to find them still hard then it sounds like the solenoid is doing its job. If it wasn't, the brakes would feel exactly like they would with it off.

 

However, sticky brake calipers would explain it.

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Not really difficult to press the brake and then press a button..

 

Try pressing harder.

 

As said.... if the brakes are solid when the solenoid is switched on.... then it's working. If they gradually go down... then it's not.

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Try pressing harder.

 

As said.... if the brakes are solid when the solenoid is switched on.... then it's working. If they gradually go down... then it's not.

 

I press the brake as far as it will go, engage the switch and hear the "click", take foot off and the pedal is solid. If i use both feet i can sometimes move the pedal down a little way and then get resistance

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That means it's working then. It's holding the pressure in the system.

 

Try this.....

 

Push the brake pedal down, initiate the solenoid, press the brake pedal down, turn off the solenoid, continue pressing the brake pedal down, turn on the solenoid.

 

Then try it.

 

It sounds like the brakes need looked at. If the above works then that confirms it.

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Is the solenoid aone way check? If it is... then that would make sense. I assumed Lee fitted it though.

 

No lee didn't fit it, myself and another member fitted it a few months ago now. Hasn't bothered me to much untill recently. I have compared my solenoid plumbing to parry's (like i said before) and its exactly the same. Even lee has said its the exact same. When we fitted the kit we tested the car as it was up on the stands and the wheels locked fine and didn't move, since then i've had to change to UK spec fronts instead of my AP's (due to the bleed nipple incident), but the UK spec brakes were fitted by a garage and bleed proper

 

It goes -

 

Top braided line on Solenoid goes to master cylinder

 

Bottom braided line on Solenoid goes to front brake line

 

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/15/usy6yguh.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/15/aqynune6.jpg

Edited by drift_bear (see edit history)
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I can push the car in neutral with it engaged and when I tried what you suggested, it still moved..

 

Swap the lines round at the line lock, I'm pretty sure they are round the wrong way. Take kitchen roll out :D

 

If it still doesn't work then the front brakes need looked at :D

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Looking at that 1st picture again.... are your lines not the wrong way around? Should the top one not go to the brakes?

 

Not according to the instructions -

 

1. Use the two blue anodized plugs to plug up the two sides holes on the Hurst solenoid. Use teflon tape.

 

2. Install two #3 male to 10mm adapters to the top and bottom holes on the front of the Hurst solenoid using Teflon tape on these as well.

 

3. Mount the Hurst line/loc solenoid to the fender well.

 

4. There are two metal lines on the passenger side of the brake master cylinder, remove the rear one and bend it towards the intake manifold to point towards the front of the car.

 

5. Intall the #3 male adapter to the master cylinder, inserting the female side "IN," so that the male #3 end is facing out. ( DO NOT use teflon tape on this.)

 

6. Install the longer of the two steel braided lines with the 90 degree angle fitting mounted on the brake master cylinder pointing towards the front of the car, install the other end to the top of the two holes on the Hurst solenoid. (NO teflon tape.)

 

7. Install the remaining brake line to the bottom of the two holes on the Hurst solenoid, and the other end to the factory metal brake line that you removed from the master cylinder ( using the #3 male to brake line fitting.) (NO teflon tape.)

 

8. Bleed brakes.

 

9. Now Follow instructions provided by the Hurst Roll Control line/loc kit to wire up the switch inside of your car.

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