gavin.starr Posted October 6 Author Share Posted October 6 Stripped all of the underside and have made a start removing the underseal to re do it all. some of the old fuel pipes and brake lines were starting to look a bit crusty. So they have all been removed and will be replaced. under the fuel tank has been stripped of underseal and the small rust patches that were starting to creep in have been sanded back to bare metal. POR15 metal prep was then used to prepare the base metal for paint. POR15 Black paint has then been applied. Once I have completed the car panel by panel I will then re seam seal it. Followed with Raptor paint over the top of everything which will then act as the stone guard to protect it all underneath. Up to now that's as far as I've got as it's a lengthy process. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gavin.starr Posted October 16 Author Share Posted October 16 So that's 90% of the underside now complete. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iky Posted October 16 Share Posted October 16 Good work Gavin I've been following on Instagram Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gavin.starr Posted October 16 Author Share Posted October 16 8 hours ago, Iky said: Good work Gavin I've been following on Instagram Thanks. It's definitely a tedious task but hopefully worth it in the end. Not sure of your on tiktok or not but that's where the videos go (@suprarestore). I only put pictures up on instagram. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted October 17 Share Posted October 17 (edited) I applied the silver POR15 to my underside when I had the sub frame off, also to the drive shafts after cleaning those up. I was surprised just how far a small tin of the stuff would spread, being quite thin you cannot slap it on thick or it just runs everywhere. I did paint on top of the PRO, a couple of coats of matt black. I did my underside in 2017 and clean the underside with a damp rag every year pre-MOT and it is holding up well to this day. I also applied some USA rubberised arch spray to my rear wheel arches and that is holding up well to. I used ABRO U-60 undercoating spray for that, it has a good reputation amongst US restorers. Edited October 17 by rider (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUPRA4EVA Posted October 17 Share Posted October 17 This is amazing, I hope to one day do something like this myself... Where did you get the flip stand for the frame? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gavin.starr Posted October 17 Author Share Posted October 17 5 hours ago, rider said: I applied the silver POR15 to my underside when I had the sub frame off, also to the drive shafts after cleaning those up. I was surprised just how far a small tin of the stuff would spread, being quite thin you cannot slap it on thick or it just runs everywhere. I did paint on top of the PRO, a couple of coats of matt black. I did my underside in 2017 and clean the underside with a damp rag every year pre-MOT and it is holding up well to this day. I also applied some USA rubberised arch spray to my rear wheel arches and that is holding up well to. I used ABRO U-60 undercoating spray for that, it has a good reputation amongst US restorers. I'm going to be going over all this with Raptor paint to act as a stone guard. So hopefully I'll be able to start that this weekend. 23 minutes ago, SUPRA4EVA said: This is amazing, I hope to one day do something like this myself... Where did you get the flip stand for the frame? I bought the roll over jig off Ebay. Although it works its not the best design, as I had to modify it to suit. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted October 18 Share Posted October 18 When you reassemble everything underneath - spray (can use a cheap trigger sprayer ) with Dinitrol AV8 , 1 litre will be more than enough . You can also cover lines and rubbers . this will last decades ..it’s very hard to remove ! It leeches in joins and perfect for hidden or enclosed areas. It is used in aviation for corrosion protection on structures and wheel wells . The tyres throw up water into the area at very high speeds and it remains in place . Suspension components will stay as new for 20 years with ease . Not overly expensive but hard to remove from your drive or garage floor ! Around 12 hours dry time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gavin.starr Posted October 19 Author Share Posted October 19 23 hours ago, jagman said: When you reassemble everything underneath - spray (can use a cheap trigger sprayer ) with Dinitrol AV8 , 1 litre will be more than enough . You can also cover lines and rubbers . this will last decades ..it’s very hard to remove ! It leeches in joins and perfect for hidden or enclosed areas. It is used in aviation for corrosion protection on structures and wheel wells . The tyres throw up water into the area at very high speeds and it remains in place . Suspension components will stay as new for 20 years with ease . Not overly expensive but hard to remove from your drive or garage floor ! Around 12 hours dry time I've actually just bought some. I have been recommended it by a few people now. I ordered the one with the cavity nozzle so I can spray it inside hard to get at places. I haven't got much done this week as my little lad has Chickenpox so I've been looking after him. But hopefully I'll have some updates soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted October 19 Share Posted October 19 I have been using it for over 40 years now - it is the best available corrosion inhibitor - any low pressure hand sprayer will work . It will protect rubber as a barrier to UV light . the downsides: don’t let it drip in your hair - you may have to cut it out -lol there are solvents that will remove it but it is a messy mission ! it is a light brown colour and does not look the prettiest, but if you cleaned it off a suspension ,say springs they would look like new after 20 years It will pool in crevices and be thicker ,very very hard to remove ! 40+ years using the stuff tells me it works !!! I recommended it about 15 or so years ago on here and it was way more expensive back then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gavin.starr Posted October 24 Author Share Posted October 24 Thats all of the seam sealing work complete. Now justvfor a new layer of primer and on with the Raptor Paint. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted October 24 Share Posted October 24 Doing a great job on the car. Kudos for doing it all yourself. Enjoying the updates. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gavin.starr Posted October 28 Author Share Posted October 28 Last layer of primer before the Raptor paint goes on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gavin.starr Posted October 30 Author Share Posted October 30 Final layer of protection is now on. Raptor paint is complete. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suprakeith Posted November 1 Share Posted November 1 Amazing job, looks so fresh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gavin.starr Posted November 3 Author Share Posted November 3 (edited) While the car is in this position I'm going to refresh all of the brake lines and fuel lines. Hopefully once the car is built I'm going to be running around 650 to 700hp so I need to future proof all of this in advance. So with regards to the fuel lines what size should I look at running. Would standard size lines be sufficient or should I upgrade them to run a -8an feed and a -6return? Edited November 3 by gavin.starr Quick word change (see edit history) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted November 3 Share Posted November 3 All looks incredible. Such a huge effort gone into this. So very awesome to see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gavin.starr Posted December 15 Author Share Posted December 15 So I've started by putting the original filter mount through the blast cabinet and have painted it up. I have stretched out the clamp to accommodate the new size fuel filter from sytec which now fits like the factory filter under the car. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gavin.starr Posted December 15 Author Share Posted December 15 I have also stripped the original fuel tank straps and re painted them. replacements are pretty expensive for a couple of strips of metal. Miner only had surface rust so scrubbed up pretty well. I then received a mesage from the powdercoaters telling me my parts are ready so i have been to collect those. So now these are back i can start poly bushing everything. thats as far as ive got at the min but progress is progress. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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