Jellybean Posted May 7, 2014 Share Posted May 7, 2014 Hey How do you know what size you need? Will the ones in there have part numbers on them or just get out the old Vernier callipers? About 15+ options on the Toyota OEM Parts list for mine WASHER, PLATE (FOR REAR DIFFERENTIAL SIDE GEAR SHAFT) WASHER, PLATE (FOR REAR DIFFERENTIAL DRIVE PINION) Frame No. JZA80-0011342 Model No. E-JZA80-ALFQZ http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1993_TOYOTA_SUPRA_JZA80-ALFQZ_4101.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted May 10, 2014 Author Share Posted May 10, 2014 Anybody? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Pinion washers are chosen to achieve the correct pinion bearing pre load torque, which differs if using new or used bearings. You need an inch / pounds torque wrench, or some basic maths, lever arm length and known weights, and some ingenuity. You need a selection of washers to hand to make the job practical. I grind some of my own in soft steel, then buy the correct hardened size. The side washers are selected to move the crown wheel side to side within the casing to achieve proper pinion to crown wheel tooth contact pattern. You need Engineer's Blue and some experience. They *ALSO* have to be chosen to give the correct side bearing preload as well. Basically you get the right preload and then change them in equal amounts one thicker, one thinner, to move the CW side to side to get the right contact pattern. If you haven't done a good few diffs before it'll cost a bomb in unnecessary washers and drive you crazy. Have fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted May 11, 2014 Author Share Posted May 11, 2014 Thanks Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 I would honestly say that if the diff is built from a crown wheel and pinion that did not originate in the case you are using, you should get an expert to assemble it. If the CWP is from that case and you are *ONLY* changing bearings (* NOT* for example, fitting an LSD centre section), you *MAY get away with just re-using the original washers. I would say re using them is safer than trying from scratch. If you change the centre section for an LSD type, or are mixing CWP and cases, then it *MUST* be done from scratch, and it is probably going to tax people until they have done a few. With me doing race cars, and the fact they regularly blow up transaxles, and need diff rebuilds, I now have a feel for doing this, but the first few I did took days each, and made me wonder if it was all worthwhile! All of a sudden it becomes easier and you just "know" which way to go, and how much. The other problem is the sheer number of washer thicknesses, the fact Toyota won't have them in stock, and the price. A surface grinder is your friend, just buy thick ones and grind to suit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted May 11, 2014 Author Share Posted May 11, 2014 (edited) Thanks Chris , the guy rebuilding it has done a few , he builds your favourite cars , drift lol It's just a standard 12bolt 200mm supra diff with a bearing gone , all oem parts but I was just wondering how you identify what washer to use Here's the kit I have, the carbonetic 2 way LSD will be refitted 90179-28006 pinion nut 90311-50018 pinion seal 90366-38009 pinion bearing 90366-50039 pinion bearing 41231-14110 crush sleeve 90366-54014 side carrier bearings x 2 96721-31110 side carrier cover o rings x 2 90311-45013 axle seals x 2 00295-01281 FIPG sealer Edited May 11, 2014 by Jellybean (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 If that LSD was running fine in that casing, you *COULD* re use the old shims. But you say a bearing has gone, which suggests it wasn't set up right in the first place. So I would say he needs to measure and select. If he's building it, does he not know how to select the right ones??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted May 11, 2014 Author Share Posted May 11, 2014 One of the reasons I asked was to know what questions to ask him I would love you to do it Chris but I am too far away Will have a chat with him during the week and hopefully he reiterates what you are saying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted February 24, 2016 Author Share Posted February 24, 2016 Car is nearly there , maybe Mr Wilson will have some insight On further investigation it appears the bearings where not changed , rust on the race bearing after 150 miles! All new bearings installed again SSI(Supra Specialists Ireland) currently have it, Colin is doing great work getting it setup ; I have done enough reading up on how to install, Shim, set the backlash , preload to be confident he knows what he is doing. Colin said diff is spot on , backlash , preload tolerances , Bearings are all quiet on the ramp, on quick road test slight gear noise on light load on acceleration but he wants to put some mileage on it , if it was on overrun , this would mean the pinion is trying to catch up and the preload is set too tight , new crush washer , start again! Gear was running on a different spot on tooth, would have worn that tooth, the tooth pattern is spot on when built back up, backlash was 0.10, max is 0.14, min is 0.08 We think the pinion needs to bed in on the ring gear, a bit of lap on it from mileage should do it , ring gear and pinion would wear a bit over the years , after some mileage he will take her back out and check tolerances again (40-50 miles), check oil of any metal ; go from there but it is difficult to tell if a ring gear or pinion is FUBAR ; worst case new ring gear and pinion Chris , if you have any taughts on this be much appreciated , I would rather be confident everything in there is ok , than take a chance at damaging the Diff and bearings again; Would you recommend a new ring gear and pinion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 I would need to see the Engineer's Blue tooth pattern to say anything meaningful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted February 24, 2016 Author Share Posted February 24, 2016 Dont know if this is any use , first check of the contact pattern , OsGiken installed running on the inside edge , it is spot on center after a few tweaks (no pics though) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 It's what it's like now, not what it was like when it was wrong I am sure he must know what he's doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted February 24, 2016 Author Share Posted February 24, 2016 It's what it's like now, not what it was like when it was wrong I am sure he must know what he's doing. Thanks Chris , just trying to use all the resources that specialise in this field I can ; dont want to leave myself exposed like I did before ; new OSGiken in there too now , its getting $$$ Thanks again for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
np89 Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 Whats happening with your old diff carlo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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