Noz Posted April 13, 2019 Share Posted April 13, 2019 Ah good you've sold one problrm shame about the cold start. Do you think it could be wiring? Part of my maintenance when it's back on the road will be renewing all the wiring and any aging component. I find a lot of crap earthing locations since I've begun reviewing my stock wiring. Yes mate I'm NAt. I'm R154 and have lowered compression so I'm hoping I can manage 600hp without too much hassle. Syvecs to be installed once the paint job is finished. And other jobs! I do miss though my first setup running w58 and just boosted. The 2jzge throttle body was a pleasure to drive. After market cable and throttle body make the car a bit clunky! The dream would be vvti. I've got a spare engine in bits. But I'd love to pickup a vvti engine and swap the head. Is your facelift running vvti? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted April 13, 2019 Author Share Posted April 13, 2019 Ah good you've sold one problrm shame about the cold start. Do you think it could be wiring? Part of my maintenance when it's back on the road will be renewing all the wiring and any aging component. I find a lot of crap earthing locations since I've begun reviewing my stock wiring. Yes mate I'm NAt. I'm R154 and have lowered compression so I'm hoping I can manage 600hp without too much hassle. Syvecs to be installed once the paint job is finished. And other jobs! I do miss though my first setup running w58 and just boosted. The 2jzge throttle body was a pleasure to drive. After market cable and throttle body make the car a bit clunky! The dream would be vvti. I've got a spare engine in bits. But I'd love to pickup a vvti engine and swap the head. Is your facelift running vvti? I’m beginning to think it could be mate. The wiring loom is getting a bit brittle in its old age and I’d love to be able to replace it. There’s a course online where they walk you through constructing your own race spec loom and I was tempted to look into that. Bit of an investment though so I’m going to think about it. It’s run by HP Academy in case it’s of any interest No vvti for me mate and still on the crappy distributor. My ideal setup would be vvti too to run a clean factory coil setup, cant say no to a bit of help spooling the turbo as well! I think I’d like to ditch the log manifold as well and go tubular. The sound off it isn’t great and I think the wastegate is a touch too small. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted April 13, 2019 Share Posted April 13, 2019 What wastegate do you have. Do you get boost creep? What indicates gates too small. Mine was on my old setup. It was 37mm. I've changed it to 60mm now and modified my eBay manifold to suit a larger aperture so it can flow. But it's an eBay gate and I've no idea if it will work okay! Tuner might bin it and charge me lol! I'm aiming to ditch the dizzy when I get the syvecs installed. It's an ignition failure waiting to happen. Definitely consider it. If you buy a loom. Keep me in touch. Maybe we can buy 2 and get a discount mate. I've seen the HP academy videos advertising. They do look good. I'm about to start an MSc end of the year, so I'm studying hard already researching otherwise they do look tempting. What manifold would you go with? I had my wastegate tubes cut off and relocated to sit inside the bay. So I can work on the gate without lifting the car. Most manifolds point the gate under side. Where is yours at the moment? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted April 13, 2019 Author Share Posted April 13, 2019 It’s a Turbosmart 42mm mate. Both mappers were able to get it under control but it was creeping a little. My understanding is that at low boost, the gates near wide open and still can’t divert enough gas to prevent the turbo overboosting. I’ve noticed Whifbitz have a version 2 of their kit now with a larger wastegate so it’ll be fine for anyone getting a kit now. lol it’s hit or miss with those eBay gates isn’t it. Manifolds don’t seem to cause any issues though, especially if you can do bits to them yourself to improve them! Will do mate. Would be good for peace of mind to have it replaced eventually but no idea what the going rate is on them. Might be cheaper to build them I’ll definitely consider coils though, spotted a company in the states that does a conversion kit so that’s another option I’d quite like a 6boost manifold I reckon. Saw one on hartys car last year on dragonball and I hear they do NA-T one’s too. Failing that there’s always SRD in the uk and then PHR as well. Wastegate is on the bottom of mine which is a pain like. Would’ve liked to have mine up top like you’ve done. So much easier to even change a spring! Cars currently at a garage locally to have a few checks. Failing that I’ll have to take it back to the mapper and see if he can check the map and see if the idle tables have skewed or something. Really not sure what’s going on with it haha. You got a project thread going up? Be good to see all the bits you’ve been up to! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted April 14, 2019 Share Posted April 14, 2019 I used to have a thread mate but I stopped updating it when the updates became too intense lol bloody five years it's taken. I should update the thread really. What kit did you see on the dizzy removal. I think whifbitz will put me on TT coils. I preferred a cheaper manifold because 1k is a lot on one. It's easy to repair but the internals never look quite as pretty. I've had mine ported to improve it. But it's worked for me so far. I'm surprised it's at low boost you've got the problem. I've always understood boost creep as the surface area being unable to flow enough volume. As the volume of gases requires increases from mid range upto top end. I struggle with higher end flow. Boost ended up going back into the engine. I wonder if it's a boost control issue you're having rating than a spike due to lack of volume flow. As surely a smaller port would struggle even more as the rpm increases and the amount of gas volume increases also. What ecu are you on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted April 14, 2019 Author Share Posted April 14, 2019 Haha to be fair I’m the same. Get a bit drowned in changes to the car at times. Would be good to see all the little bits you’ve been up to with your custom work on your own car though! They’re called First State Motorsport mate, don’t seem to fly the flag on the kit a great deal but I spoke to them a while back and they do offer it. Along with a tasty FFIM that I might look at as well. Cleans things up so much better. It was at the top end I was over boosting mate. Just meant that 11psi was a low boost setup lol. If I go TT head gasket and crank the boost up, it may be better controlled? Not sure. But top end, the gate just couldn’t flow the excess gas and it was going through the turbo instead. I’m on an AEM EMS v2 with a solenoid controller. Is it maybe a restriction on the turbo housing as well you’ve got if it’s going back into the engine? ECU wants to give it more boost but the flow rate isn’t high enough and backing up pressure into the engine? Larger a/r maybe needed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted April 14, 2019 Share Posted April 14, 2019 Are fair enough on the boost creep. Sounds typical for your diagnosis buddy. Yeah I will update it when it's pretty much done. I think I just got fed up of people saying I'm copying Ibrars wide kit. Even though mines OEM styled and full metal. Next few months maybe as it's finalised in paint. FSM parts looked amazing even from when I first started viewing NAt bits. Always liked their stuff. I nearly went ffim with an eBay setup. Glad I didn't. Intake manifolds are so harsh and aggressive usually. If you can get a nicely flowing one internally than its super awesome. I was lucky and imported a manifold with a cnc machined base. Like integrated little trumpets. Have you still got the buttyfly valve working on the NA intake? The one that splits the 6 cylinder part of the manifold just before the runners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted April 15, 2019 Author Share Posted April 15, 2019 Nice one mate, looking forward to seeing the results! I think the best part about the FSM intake for me is that it's true front facing and not angled. I think I prefer it as a cleaner look and saves having to move the battery and potentially the fusebox. Sounds like you got a good find on the intake though, the velocity stack/trumpets are a must for me as it'll flow so much better and more evenly. Yeah I've still got the butterfly for now dude. I've just left the intake alone for now but have seen differing opinions about it on supraforums. Some guys leave it and some say get rid for what seems to be no reason. Did you ever run or remove yours when boosted? - - - Updated - - - Nice one mate, looking forward to seeing the results! I think the best part about the FSM intake for me is that it's true front facing and not angled. I think I prefer it as a cleaner look and saves having to move the battery and potentially the fusebox. Sounds like you got a good find on the intake though, the velocity stack/trumpets are a must for me as it'll flow so much better and more evenly. Yeah I've still got the butterfly for now dude. I've just left the intake alone for now but have seen differing opinions about it on supraforums. Some guys leave it and some say get rid for what seems to be no reason. Did you ever run or remove yours when boosted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted April 15, 2019 Share Posted April 15, 2019 I left mine in mate. Didn't make an impact. Only issue with true front facing is it's mighty close to the pulley and you definitely will need a OCD steering res fitting. The TT one isn't angled enough. The throttle body will also be tiger tight to the pulley. But much easier to contend with than a fuse box relocation. I still had to relocate the battery into the boot. Angle or no angle bro you'll still need that intercooler piping to come from somewhere! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted April 16, 2019 Author Share Posted April 16, 2019 I left mine in mate. Didn't make an impact. Only issue with true front facing is it's mighty close to the pulley and you definitely will need a OCD steering res fitting. The TT one isn't angled enough. The throttle body will also be tiger tight to the pulley. But much easier to contend with than a fuse box relocation. I still had to relocate the battery into the boot. Angle or no angle bro you'll still need that intercooler piping to come from somewhere! Think I'll just leave it be then, some guys running stupid levels of boost have had it break off and disappear into the engine but we're talking race spec stuff before that happens. Ahh gotcha mate, looks like a very tight squeeze for everything in there. Steering res relocation and little bits like that would make for a nice custom project maybe. Saves spending silly money for what some of these things are in reality. Battery relocation cleans the bay up a bit I suppose and there's a nice spot for it in the boot so not the end of the world I guess. I was kind of hoping to just run vertically down off the intake and then a 90deg under the battery and out to the wing that way. Similar way to how TT's must route theirs. Saying that, there's probably less room to go that way with the radiator/viscous fan to avoid and clear too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted April 16, 2019 Share Posted April 16, 2019 You might get away with it. Like you say the TT lot manage it. I've probably piped mine through the battery location because it's not there. Easy to relocate. I bought a kit. It was crap. box was naff and fittings didn't even fit inside the box so had to cut it up. My advice piece your own kit together if moving the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted April 17, 2019 Author Share Posted April 17, 2019 You might get away with it. Like you say the TT lot manage it. I've probably piped mine through the battery location because it's not there. Easy to relocate. I bought a kit. It was crap. box was naff and fittings didn't even fit inside the box so had to cut it up. My advice piece your own kit together if moving the battery. Wiring terrifies me but its literally 2 (or even 1 maybe?) cable to lengthen to the back with a couple fuses so I'll definitely look into it. Even just to tidy the bay up a little, thanks for the advice dude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted April 17, 2019 Share Posted April 17, 2019 Real easy to do mate. Even if you just get the wires as a kit. Pre cut to length and crimped. As easy as fitting a battery lol.. When do you think you'll spend more focus getting the cold start sorted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted April 17, 2019 Author Share Posted April 17, 2019 Lol I'll be giving that a go at some point in the near future then It's being looked at just now dude. Went over all the vacuum hoses again and definitely no leaks. Checked wiring to the IACV as well as the terminals across the IACV and all reads as it should. I think connecting to the ECU is next to see if any values are reading a bit funny. Someone else was having coolant temp sensor issues on here so now I'm thinking about looking at that too. Hate these little gremlins! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted April 17, 2019 Share Posted April 17, 2019 I'm worried I'll come across onto some when I'm mapping. I might look to do the coolant sensor now while I'm draining the coolant actually. Good idea mate lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted April 18, 2019 Author Share Posted April 18, 2019 Have faith lol. Had a look at mine yesterday and seems to be fine at the moment...but they're tiny looking brittle things, especially the wiring so definitely worth doing at least one of the them while you can Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted July 9, 2019 Author Share Posted July 9, 2019 (edited) Update time. Had to get the distributor replaced as my one was losing either cam or crank signal with the ECU. Took the car out to tweak the map and make sure it was behaving, seemed to be boosting up fine and then on the last pull before heading home...bang. Had to get the car recovered back to the garage after a bit of a bang and smoke-screening the cars behind. Sump came off to find this. Not a good start to investigations, head off then revealed this. 5 melted pistons in total but cylinder 5 pictured was the worst one. Distributor looks to have rotated under vibration after not being tightened down properly and ended up swinging the timing so far out, the pistons decided to call it a day. Not bad for a near 100,000 mile NA engine running 1bar of boost for 15,000 of them. Could have also been a lot worse, block just needs a skim and bored out to 86.5mm. It was always the plan to rebuild the engine as it was in dire need of it. This has just forced my hand into doing it a little earlier than planned. Parts are now arriving for a forged rebuild with the following parts. ACL Race Bearings and Thrust Washers ARP Main Bolts ARP Head Studs Eagle Rods Manley Pistons with Uprated Wrist Pins BC 262 Camshafts New OEM Water Pump New OEM TT Oil Pump New OEM Crank Pulley New OEM Gasket Kit (TT Headgasket for 9:1 Compression) Goleby's Distributor Delete Kit OEM 2JZ-GE VVTi Coil Packs and Igniter Walbro 485 Fuel Pump Spec Stage 3+ Clutch New OEM Flywheel New OEM 2JZ-GE VVTi Coilpacks (wasted spark) 2JZ-GE VVTi DH61 Igniter New Belts, Fluids and Filters Block is currently away being machined and parts are arriving. Hopeful to have the engine back together before the end of the month and begin running it in. At least now I won't have to worry about an archaic distributor setup anymore. Edited August 29, 2019 by Style (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted July 9, 2019 Share Posted July 9, 2019 Sorry to hear of the bad news. But could have been a lot worst. What ecu you going to run. Don't jump to vvti coils until I've had whifbitz trial the new coil on plug setup. Cheaper and easier to tune than the vvti waste spark. Bhp goals? I was going to swap the rods and call it a day on components. Just bearings and bolts. Why the pistons? We're you stock compression? TT gasket is an easy shout. Mine went on a treat. Hopefully good for the 600 club now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrighty338 Posted July 9, 2019 Share Posted July 9, 2019 who was keeping an eye on things during the "map tweak" ???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted July 9, 2019 Share Posted July 9, 2019 Was this on an emanage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted July 10, 2019 Author Share Posted July 10, 2019 Sorry to hear of the bad news. But could have been a lot worst. What ecu you going to run. Don't jump to vvti coils until I've had whifbitz trial the new coil on plug setup. Cheaper and easier to tune than the vvti waste spark. Bhp goals? I was going to swap the rods and call it a day on components. Just bearings and bolts. Why the pistons? We're you stock compression? TT gasket is an easy shout. Mine went on a treat. Hopefully good for the 600 club now. Yeah, considering the failure it's not all that bad. I'm running an AEM EMS v2 just now so will just be keeping that for the time being. I've already got everything for the coils dude, only went with the vvti ones as the full 6 won't fit under the stock intake I've got a thread saved with all the AEM v2 settings required for the vvti setup too. Pistons was something that might as well get done as I'd be looking at a similar price for stock ones anyway. New rings are in the 300-400 bucks region and once you source a set of TT pistons, you're about £100 away from a set of forged ones. Don't think I could trust second hand pistons either. Could have been ragged for 100k miles. It's also a build I'd like to do once and not bother touching again if I can help it. So in case my goal posts change (which they tend to do a lot ), I'd like the peace of mind that the engine will cope. Yeah, stock compression mate. Pistons, block skim and headgasket should get me down to around 8.5:1 from my calcs depending on the skim. I'm just going to keep my eye on things and use the appropriate headgasket really. Fingers crossed for 600 though, the Whifbitz log mani starts to top out in the 500's from flow restrictions apparently so will probably be limited by where that stops. Clutch and intercooler size are the only other 2 things that may limit the car, Chris Wilson clutch doesn't come with a torque rating...so it'll be a case of finding out one way or another who was keeping an eye on things during the "map tweak" ???? No one at the time, map was sorted and the car was being driven back to the garage Was this on an emanage? AEM v2 mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burna Posted July 10, 2019 Share Posted July 10, 2019 Yeah, considering the failure it's not all that bad. I'm running an AEM EMS v2 just now so will just be keeping that for the time being. I've already got everything for the coils dude, only went with the vvti ones as the full 6 won't fit under the stock intake I've got a thread saved with all the AEM v2 settings required for the vvti setup too. Pistons was something that might as well get done as I'd be looking at a similar price for stock ones anyway. New rings are in the 300-400 bucks region and once you source a set of TT pistons, you're about £100 away from a set of forged ones. Don't think I could trust second hand pistons either. Could have been ragged for 100k miles. It's also a build I'd like to do once and not bother touching again if I can help it. So in case my goal posts change (which they tend to do a lot ), I'd like the peace of mind that the engine will cope. Yeah, stock compression mate. Pistons, block skim and headgasket should get me down to around 8.5:1 from my calcs depending on the skim. I'm just going to keep my eye on things and use the appropriate headgasket really. Fingers crossed for 600 though, the Whifbitz log mani starts to top out in the 500's from flow restrictions apparently so will probably be limited by where that stops. Clutch and intercooler size are the only other 2 things that may limit the car, Chris Wilson clutch doesn't come with a torque rating...so it'll be a case of finding out one way or another No one at the time, map was sorted and the car was being driven back to the garage AEM v2 mate I think you're doing exactly the right thing mate with the full on engine build, no use going cheap and paying for it later on, do it once do it right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted July 10, 2019 Share Posted July 10, 2019 Shame that it went bang at all of course, but good for future proofing and bringing forward your eventual plans regardless. Hope all goes smoothly from here on in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted July 10, 2019 Author Share Posted July 10, 2019 I think you're doing exactly the right thing mate with the full on engine build, no use going cheap and paying for it later on, do it once do it right You're a good/bad influence Nail on head though, hopefully once its back together I can forget about it and enjoy the extra power Shame that it went bang at all of course, but good for future proofing and bringing forward your eventual plans regardless. Hope all goes smoothly from here on in Thanks James, was hoping to get a good summer out of it this year but hey ho. Is your all back together and behaving? Haven't seen or heard about it since Banzai last year really! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted September 5, 2019 Author Share Posted September 5, 2019 Engine rebuild is now underway. All the block needed was boring out to 86.5mm, decked and treated to a coat of paint. Bottom end has now been built up. Going along to see it after work so will grab some more pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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