TT Paul Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 (edited) bleed the brakes and when sat at lights the pedal slowly sinks air i guess, think i sucked it in through resivior does the engine need tobe on for bleeding at any point for abs... some more info pls, i know it takes two one pumping, the other bleeding:taped: REPAIR replaced master cylinder. Edited April 21, 2014 by TT Paul (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 Work shop manuals are on the home page, press the repair manuals button top left, there's a whole section on the brakes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Roger NE Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 If the pedal slowly sinks (and you don't have a leak, and have already bled them) it sounds like the seals in your Master Cylinder have worn out You can get a refurb kit to take it apart and replace them - or just try a s/h one (they rarely fail on these cars) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TT Paul Posted April 20, 2014 Author Share Posted April 20, 2014 gonna try master unit as no leaks and fluid level is fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Roger NE Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 (edited) If it's the seals in the master cylinder, the pedal sinking to the floor is usually WORSE when the brake fluid has warmed up (ie after a bit of heavy braking) It's certainly a lot easier to bleed the brakes first (and free!), so maybe worth doing again to make sure you haven't got air in somehow. (although pumping the pedal a few times will normally firm it up if it's air - if it carries on sinking no matter how many times you pump the pedal, it's your Master Cylinder) I meant to say before, it's best to have the engine running when bleeding the brakes, just so you have the brake servo to help. You can get one-man brake bleeders, but it's easiest to have someone help (your wife/girlfriend?). Open bleed nipple - push pedal to floor - close nipple - pedal up - repeat 4/5 times on each wheel, best to do rear brakes first. Edited April 20, 2014 by Roger NE (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TT Paul Posted April 20, 2014 Author Share Posted April 20, 2014 driven it a few times but even when pumped it sinks so going with your idea the master cylinder got some front braided lines to fit so will do it all at once, and report back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 Vacuum bleeder for the win, you can use on your own easily Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TT Paul Posted April 21, 2014 Author Share Posted April 21, 2014 roger for the win thanks, was master cylinder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iky Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 If it's the seals in the master cylinder, the pedal sinking to the floor is usually WORSE when the brake fluid has warmed up (ie after a bit of heavy braking) It's certainly a lot easier to bleed the brakes first (and free!), so maybe worth doing again to make sure you haven't got air in somehow. (although pumping the pedal a few times will normally firm it up if it's air - if it carries on sinking no matter how many times you pump the pedal, it's your Master Cylinder) I meant to say before, it's best to have the engine running when bleeding the brakes, just so you have the brake servo to help. You can get one-man brake bleeders, but it's easiest to have someone help (your wife/girlfriend?). Open bleed nipple - push pedal to floor - close nipple - pedal up - repeat 4/5 times on each wheel, best to do rear brakes first. Shouldn't that be; push pedal to floor - Open bleed nipple - close nipple - pedal up ? I'd assume you would suck air in should you open nipple before pushing pedal ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 No, open nipple, slowly have someone press pedal to floor, once fully depressed, close nipple, slowly release pedal. Repeat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iky Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 No, open nipple, slowly have someone press pedal to floor, once fully depressed, close nipple, slowly release pedal. Repeat. Ah ok. Thankyou Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 Hey Quick one too, just did mine the weekend , (open nipple, slowly have someone press pedal to floor, once fully depressed, close nipple, slowly release pedal. Repeat.) The pedal was very hard with the Engine off , turn her on after the bleeding is finished , she goes spongy Will Bleed it again, but is this common when bleeding a system? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Massey Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 Hey Quick one too, just did mine the weekend , (open nipple, slowly have someone press pedal to floor, once fully depressed, close nipple, slowly release pedal. Repeat.) The pedal was very hard with the Engine off , turn her on after the bleeding is finished , she goes spongy Will Bleed it again, but is this common when bleeding a system? Did you do all four in the correct sequence? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 The sequence isn't really that important, but the pedal will and should feel freer and probably spongier once the engine has built up vacuum in the brake servo. How spongy is spongy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 The sequence isn't really that important, but the pedal will and should feel freer and probably spongier once the engine has built up vacuum in the brake servo. How spongy is spongy? With the Engine off it has small play in the pedal (on/off switch, rock hard) so I expected it to have more travel after I turned the on engine But she is too spongy (too much travel) when the vacuum builds up, an air noise too when you depress the brake pedal , best I can describe it , it is like depressing a bicycle pump, shhhst sound We took her off the ramp and outside to test, but the pedal is too spongy to stop the car \ engage the brakes enough to stop safely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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