Best discs and pads for mk4 supra N/A

[Guest Joe marcon]

Best recomended disc and pads ? Or uk spec caliper upgrade then disc and pads?

Some one has mention standard discs are good and some pads off here. If someone can send me in the right direction thanks ?

[Tsia]

Generally people recommend the Chris Wilson fast road pads, discs I'm not so sure on.

[Guest Budz86]

OEM discs, CW fast road pads and steel braided lines is the best brake setup for 90% of cars. Jspec's will be fine for an NA, but of course UK's are better

[Graham1984]

Stick to oem for an Na they are more than upto the job.

[Nic]

Or uk spec caliper upgrade then disc and pads?

 

Definitely worth upgrading to the larger brakes, it would be the first modification I'd make to any Supra.

 

See here for detailed information about the different brake setups: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?249089-Supra-Brake-setups

[The Raven]

Uk set up on a stock N/A is overkill IMO

[Si_s Supe]

I've just refreshed the Jspec brakes on my NA. Fully rebuilt calipers with genuine Toyota discs and pads all round from Beadles Toyota (heavily discounted) and Goodrich braided lines with new DOT 5.1 fluid. Made a massive difference.

 

Look here: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=305622

[Benjy]

Definately don't fit Pagid rear pads. I had a couple of 140mph sprints lastnight on my runway, and the 2nd lot of hard braking resulted in brake fade and my rear wheels smoking like a chimeny! Got UK's on the front with ADL pads, J-specs on the rear with Pagid pads and they'll be going in the bin shortly for a set of UK rears and CW pads all round.

 

I managed to fade my NA brakes, and I had EBC green stuffs all round. I'm sure J-specs would be fine, just get some CW pads in there

[Dnk]

Does your NA have ABS ?

[skippyboyo1]

In my track years with the car I never had brake fade or anyone out brake me? And that's with j spec brakes!

 

Uk spec or other bigger examples are NOT over kill at all, if someone wants to stop better or just wants them to look good then why not.

 

My honest opinion is this.... You won't fade jspecs, the tyres will go off way before that on a track (10 laps tops at Cadwell before the tyres go) if you want big brakes then get big brakes.

[Scooter]

 

My honest opinion is this.... You won't fade jspecs, the tyres will go off way before that on a track (10 laps tops at Cadwell before the tyres go) if you want big brakes then get big brakes.

 

Good pads and good fluid and I agree, I always remember Chris Wilson's old story of melted tyre plastic dust caps with his Race spec pads and fluid but stock disks and calipers.

[Chris Wilson]

My fast road N/A Jap spec pads are on special offer at £120 plus VAT a full car set, with insured P&P to a UK postcode. I can do OE discs for the jap spec brakes at a good price and if you buy at the same time as the fast road pads I can still do free P&P. That's a good deal as discs and pads combos are HEAVY

[Guest Joe marcon]

Brilliant thanks . How much for all the disc and pads then? Cheers Chris . Going to look at braided lines and a caliper rebuild kit .

[Chris Wilson]

E-mail me at [email protected] and I'll work out a good deal. I no longer do braided hoses, but recommend genuine Goodridge kits. I do have caliper seal kits, and can supply stainless steel caliper pistons if you need them Joe. Cheers.

[Nic]

Uk set up on a stock N/A is overkill IMO

 

What's the difference in braking an NA and a TT from 70mph?

[Chris Wilson]

Probably very little, tyre adhesion will be the limiting factor. Bigger brakes may give better modulation capability and feel, but their main adavantage is less wear over a long distance race, and heat rejection / absorption over REPEATED stops. Here is an article I wrote years back that may be of interest:

 

Brake upgrades can set out to try to achieve several objectives.

The commonest are to increase resistance to fade and or increase

braking effort for a given pedal effort. IE, the pads are

pushed against the discs harder for a given pedal effort than

before the upgrade, or the brakes will stop the car from 100 MPH,

hard, for more times before fade sets in, than previously. The feel

from the pedal, that almost intangible quality, can also be addressed

and sometimes improved upon by brake size, or pad material changes, or

brake flexi hose upgrades to something less squashy than rubber.

It's easy to get carried away by the thought of brake upgrades.

The limitation in most cars as to how short a distance they can

stop in is tyre friction. Leaving aside pedal feedback, and fade,

it is almost certain that a Supra on stock Jap spec brakes will

stop in just as short a distance as one with an AP six pot kit on

it, a Brembo kit, Pauls KAD kit, or whatever. It may not feel to

the driver that it does, but usually such is the case if you just

nail the pedal as hard as you can. The fancy kits may *FEEL* to

stop the car faster, due to less pedal effort, and a better bite,

but in reality, if you hit the pedal as hard as you can with stock

Jap spec brakes, UK spec brakes, AP kit, KAD, whatever, the car

will stop in the same distance. Repeat this test 10 times and stock

Jap brakes may be on fire and long since faded, or the fluid boiled,

UK ones may be very hot and bothered, but the upgraded ones will

probably still be working within pad, disc and brake fluid temp

limits. Add in the intangible "feel" factor, and a desire to brake

as hard as possible, using as little skill as possible, but WITHOUT

relying on the ABS to take over, and for sure a well set up brake

upgrade may well allow more finesse.

 

Herein though lies the rub.

 

Upgrade only the fronts and the brake balance of the stock car may

well be compromised. Let's take stock brakes. You press smoothly on

the brake pedal with (say) 50 pounds force. The car stops fine. 70

pounds, the fronts are just beginning to lock (car makers ALWAYS aim

for the fronts to lock first, as rear wheel lock makes the car very

unstable and liable to swap ends). The rears are doing as much work

as the brake engineers deemed safe to prevent premature rear lock up.

The ABS cuts in, and maximum retardation has been reached. Now, take

a car with big front discs and calipers. Only 40 pounds pressure now

gives a smooth, lock free and powerful retardation. 50 pounds and the

new, more powerful, (for the same pedal pressure), fronts are locking.

The ABS cuts in. BUT, and this is the crux, those original rear

calipers and discs are still well below the caliper pressure where

they are able to achieve maximum retardation without fear of the

rears locking.

 

In other words the FRONT brakes are doing TOO MUCH work, albeit without

breaking into a sweat, and the rears are, to exaggerate a bit,

just along for the ride. The BEST scenario is to upgrade front AND

rear brakes, carefully ensuring the original balance of effort at any

given brake pedal pressure remains as designed, but that the more efficient

front AND rear brakes stay cooler for more hard stops, and that old

intangible "feel" from the brake pedal is improved, at lower rates of

driver effort on the pedal. The latter may or may not be good or

desirable, and can be engineered out by changing BOTH front and rear

caliper piston sizes, or pad areas. In a race car the balance would

be adjustable via 2 brake master cylinders, with a driver selectable

change in mechanical leverage effort between front and rear brake circuits,

one cylinder operating the front brake calipers, the other the rear. This

can also be achieved on road cars, but to do so is usually complex and

expensive, especially if ABS and brake circuit failure safeguards are to be

maintained. It is far easier to calculate the caliper and disc sizes, along with

pad area and compound to achieve this, as near as available off the

shelf equipment will allow.

 

Caveat. I said before makers engineer more effort on the front brakes to

encourage straight line stopping if the tyres are locked up . They err on

the excessive side, as, in the wet, the rear tyres can take a lot more

braking effort than in the dry, due to less weight transfer onto the front

tyres, as they will lock before as much weight is transferred when the grip

of the road surface is reduced. So adding yet more front brake effort worsens

this existing imbalance, especially in the wet. If it were not for the

ABS the front wheels would be locking up very early. On the Supra a

relatively sophisticated ABS allows some effort to be taken off JUST

the fronts, and an artificial and very inefficient balance is returned.

On cars with lesser (1 or 2 channel) ABS, or no ABS at all, a brake

upgrade on just one end of the car can be lethal.

[mike33]

Nice Read there Chris! I will need new discs and pads for front and rear later in the year so I will give you an e.mail buddy