supra_ufo Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 I picked up these (attached below) from Rob M, they are nice and shiny but a pain in the ass if you round them off (which is very easily done). I need to remove this one I messed up so I can fit my cooling plate back on...what is the best way to remove it? I have seen many methods, like hammering a large size bit in or drilling it but since I am new to this sort of thing I want someone else's opinion on it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dim Sum Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 I am pretty sure you can buy these and remove it. http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Power+Tool+Accessories/Speciality+Drills+Chucks/Damaged+Screw+Remover+Set+5+Piece/d80/sd1400/p38732 I had a screw that snap and I managed to remove it with something like this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clay Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 Thats a stainless steel screw. You should be abell to tap it from the side so it spins round. The washer will bend out the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 A little cutting disk to make a slot then a flat head screwdriver? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 Drill the head off, drill and easy out, hammer and chisel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 If it were raised then it'd be a simple case of grinding opposite flats. As it isn't raised then if it is a highly torqued bolt I'd drill a hole, reverse thread tap it and screw in a bolt. That does require a steel drill bit, a tap to thread the drill hole and a bolt to fit the new tapped thread. If it isn't highly torqued then the earlier suggestion of cut a groove and screwdriver could work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra_ufo Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share Posted March 17, 2014 you guys havent helped at all too many suggestions here LOL I might start with Kaan's suggestion and work from there.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absz Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 I normally just tap in a torx bit with a small hammer:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Budz86 Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 I normally just tap in a torx bit with a small hammer:) This Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 I'd go with cutting a slot in it then using an impact driver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kendo11 Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 I normally just tap in a torx bit with a small hammer:) Also this. Done it every time on every car on every bolt/screw that has been de-headed. Decent quality torx bit and hammer and ratchet and you'll have it out within seconds. Screw extractor kits are ok, but an unnecessary expense and very often too brittle to be of any use more than a couple of times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 Torx bit, slightly too big and turn her out. If not then it's drill the head off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 Theres a large, flat surface to work with there, chisel and a hammer, tap it round, by far the easiest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra_ufo Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share Posted March 17, 2014 cheers guys, I will let you know how I get on.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethr Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 (edited) Remember that stainless threads should always be lubricated (Google stainless galling), and don't do them up too tight if they aren't holding heavily stressed components (stainless should never be substituted for high-tensile steel anyway). EDIT: and stainless is a sod to drill Edited March 18, 2014 by garethr (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 If you do end up going down the route of 'easy outs' don't buy cheap as they are a false economy - A set of snap on left handed drill bits with easy outs are the way forward. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Screw-Extractor-10-Piece-Set-Left-Handed-Drill-Bits-/171244379013?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27def5db85 However, with this access, I would do as already suggested and grind a line for a flat head and your away. *I have never tried a torque head* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 (edited) Impact driver is the correct tool to use, cut the slot, one tap and it should unscrew Why do you need left handed drill bits, you just drill a hole in the normal way then insert the left handed easy out When drilling st/st try to slow the drill speed down, too fast and it heats up and work hardens, then you'll need a carbide drill Edited March 18, 2014 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 (edited) The region is NOTHING LIKE rigid enough to allow you to impact drive or hammer. It'll just deform and not be solid enough for that course of action. Drill the bolt out DEAD on centre with a Ti coated QUALITY drill and some lubricant. DO NOT snap the drill!!! One it's drilled out drill and tap oversize and use a bigger fastener. You may have to use an Imperial size to avoid going too big and running out of wall thickness in the captive nut. A carefully made screwdriver slot *MAY* work, use a 1.5 mm slitting disc. But personally I would drill it out. After you have done a few it will be very clear making sure you DON'T round fasteners off is a lot easier than repairing rounded ones The problem is decent taps, Helicoils etcetera are not cheap if you just need to use them once. It may pay you to get someone else to do it. Stainless fasteners will work harden if drilled at the wrong speed, and with the wrong lubricant, you need to do some reading before diving in. Drilling countersunk Allen screws is a nightmare, as the hex willk take the corners off a drill and render it knackered. Avoid their use if possible. A cap head can be filed or ground down to remove the female hex part. You don't have that luxury with a countersunk Allen screw. Buy several drills.... Unless the price makes you wince a bit the drills probably junk material. Buy branded!!! Edited March 18, 2014 by Chris Wilson (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 (edited) I doubt you'd have to hit it that hard Chris but yes it might be a little flimsy to work, drilling through the bolt needs to be done carefully as that looks like its only 6 mm so not much to play with below that size I'd use a centre drill which will clear out the hex no problem and put your hole slap bang in the middle, then drill through with a normal drill Edited March 18, 2014 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 I have seen people drill two holes in the face of countersunk screws using a jig to get the spacing to a known figure, then use a home made pin wrench. But they were fond of work and liked doing things differently Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 Sod that, 1 Dormer centre drill and 1 Dormer drill bit of the correct size req job done This is a centre drill for those that don't know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 Have you tried using your teeth? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evinX Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 Hammer and chisel with a sharp edge, knock a cross shape in the centre of it, then get a good screwdriver to take it out or if you can get a mole grip on it, that could work a treat to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra_ufo Posted March 18, 2014 Author Share Posted March 18, 2014 A little cutting disk to make a slot then a flat head screwdriver? I used a dremel to cut a line through it and managed to find the thickest screw driver I could, had to cut deep but it did come off.... cheers lads I have a bolt in the wing that the head came off when removing it to replace it with a bling one that is next on the list... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 Glad I could help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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