super_supra Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 I have nearly completed my engine rebuild, I have brought a fully forged bottom end that has be rebuilt, and have also striped and rebuild my head, my question are:- What oil should I run? I have been advised to use a basic mineral oil to help the engine bed in or do I just run it on pro s like I always have? How many miles should I do before first oil change was thinking about 500? How many miles before it's ran in and I can start having some fun? Thanks for your help Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay200bhp Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 I have recently had daz at whifbitz build my motor.i ran it for 250 miles on mineral oil from opie, then changed oil and filter lots of engine braking not above three thousand revs no boost really, then ran this until 500 miles upped the revs a little, another mineral oil and filter at 750 revs to 5-6k now and a bit of boost not to much.then at 1000 miles plumb in new oil cooler and put the silkolene pro s in it ! check valve clearances and hae the car mapped again..... job done HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
super_supra Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 I have recently had daz at whifbitz build my motor.i ran it for 250 miles on mineral oil from opie, then changed oil and filter lots of engine braking not above three thousand revs no boost really, then ran this until 500 miles upped the revs a little, another mineral oil and filter at 750 revs to 5-6k now and a bit of boost not to much.then at 1000 miles plumb in new oil cooler and put the silkolene pro s in it ! check valve clearances and hae the car mapped again..... job done HTH This is brilliant just what I was looking for thanks:thumbs: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skippyboyo1 Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 When I worked for yamaha the theory with the engine builders was this..... Nail an engine from word go..... It will be faster but won't last as long. Run an engine in slow it will ultimately be slower but will last. Obviously both scenarios need correctly timed oil changes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
super_supra Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 When I worked for yamaha the theory with the engine builders was this..... Nail an engine from word go..... It will be faster but won't last as long. Run an engine in slow it will ultimately be slower but will last. Obviously both scenarios need correctly timed oil changes. I can see the logic there I work with a bloke that runs a motorbike race team and they run there engines in buy doing a 20 min track session then change the oil job done, but then the engine will be rebuilt 4-5 race weekends later. Don't really want to be rebuilding the engine again anytime soon so a slow running in I think will be the way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 When I worked for yamaha the theory with the engine builders was this..... Nail an engine from word go..... It will be faster but won't last as long. Run an engine in slow it will ultimately be slower but will last. Obviously both scenarios need correctly timed oil changes. This is how the new GTR is done, There is a video on youtube where the bloke runs them in hard and runs then in slow and then strips the piston and rings out and shows you, I think jamieP done a hard and fast run in on his gtr rebuild iirc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay200bhp Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 jamiep?any words Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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