Dave Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 my alternator was playing up[all warning lights on] so I removed it cleaned it up as best I could ,put it back worked ok all lights went out when running so today had a full charge in the battery ran for about 15mins in the drive noticed the warning lights were coming on but dim then battery went flat so had a look a the main fuse and saw this it must have been like this for a while . question?? would this cause the alternator not to charge the battery or is my alternator fubard thanks dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 (edited) I'm no help but mine is also like that, Iv no idea why? Subscribed.. Edit: I should add I don't have any warning lights but lately Iv had to jump start my car a few times? I thought it had something to do with my amazing wiring skills (4 gauges wired into the clock loom) Edited March 9, 2014 by ballsdeep (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcbt Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 Look at mk4gaz thread titled dash warning lights as this relates to same thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostbuster Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 Two things that may help. (not in situ). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 Two things that may help. (not in situ). ? What two things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostbuster Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 They both got lost in cyberspace! Replace the fuse (clean the contacts if needed). Check the Alt on a test bench (not in situ). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitesupra95 Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 Put a multimeter on the battery and check the voltage, mines doesn't charge at idle but anything above 1300rpm seams fine, been like that for 3weeks without an issue as long as it's not sitting idling to long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostbuster Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 There's also a great little device I got from ebay, you just plug it in to your cig lighter and it give you the volts reading as you drive. Maybe not the finest but as a quick check it works fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Why T Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 When the battery is charged do the windows still work. I know this sounds weird but i had a similar problem with my old car. cost me like 200 quid when it was only simple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted March 13, 2014 Author Share Posted March 13, 2014 When the battery is charged do the windows still work. I know this sounds weird but i had a similar problem with my old car. cost me like 200 quid when it was only simple. yes everything else works - - - Updated - - - im going to strip the alternator ,do I need a puller to remove the belt wheel ????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibby Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 yes everything else works - - - Updated - - - im going to strip the alternator ,do I need a puller to remove the belt wheel ????? Some help from me As long as the fuse has a contact or something completing the circuit it should be fine. Step 1 Leave the Alternator where it is, check for ground continuity/ Ground as the earth wire from battery to alternator Should read 0 ohms, if it doesn you have an earth issue. You will need to check body to earth and body to engine block earth straps. Step 2 Remove negative cable from battery Check alternator wiring loom for splits and breaks. Check the postive wire Check the ecu postive Remove and check connector ensure that the connector is no full with green goo. Unplug postive wire from alternator, get a small guage wire and tap into the alternator postive. (wind some wire around the nut, ensure no of it is visiable / could touch the body/engine block /ground)Check the Postive wire) Tighten the nut back in, connect the battery back up. Start the car check the voltage thats been made via the lead that you have just inserted into postive side of the alternator. This check is to ensure that the postive lead does not have a break - very doubtful. Still the same issue, move to step 3 Step 3 Now its looking like an alternator fault, it can be to do with three things. 1 - carbon bushes worn down 2 - Main bearing shaft damaged / worn down 3 - charging circuit issue Its normally carbon bushes, This is working from memory now guys on the avensis alternator, remove the outer cover on the rear of the unit and take the three 10/8mm nuts off. once nuts are removed it should pop off, inside you will see two smaller philips screws undo them. This is the plastic holder where the bushes sit in. It should slide out away from the alternator. Inspect the bushes, they should have springs under them. is the bottom part of the spring visable ? If they are low, replace the bushes. If after replacing the bushes you have the same issue your problem is with the electronic pcb which senses when to engage the charging circuit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted March 14, 2014 Author Share Posted March 14, 2014 Some help from me As long as the fuse has a contact or something completing the circuit it should be fine. Step 1 Leave the Alternator where it is, check for ground continuity/ Ground as the earth wire from battery to alternator Should read 0 ohms, if it doesn you have an earth issue. You will need to check body to earth and body to engine block earth straps. Step 2 Remove negative cable from battery Check alternator wiring loom for splits and breaks. Check the postive wire Check the ecu postive Remove and check connector ensure that the connector is no full with green goo. Unplug postive wire from alternator, get a small guage wire and tap into the alternator postive. (wind some wire around the nut, ensure no of it is visiable / could touch the body/engine block /ground)Check the Postive wire) Tighten the nut back in, connect the battery back up. Start the car check the voltage thats been made via the lead that you have just inserted into postive side of the alternator. This check is to ensure that the postive lead does not have a break - very doubtful. Still the same issue, move to step 3 Step 3 Now its looking like an alternator fault, it can be to do with three things. 1 - carbon bushes worn down 2 - Main bearing shaft damaged / worn down 3 - charging circuit issue Its normally carbon bushes, This is working from memory now guys on the avensis alternator, remove the outer cover on the rear of the unit and take the three 10/8mm nuts off. once nuts are removed it should pop off, inside you will see two smaller philips screws undo them. This is the plastic holder where the bushes sit in. It should slide out away from the alternator. Inspect the bushes, they should have springs under them. is the bottom part of the spring visable ? If they are low, replace the bushes. If after replacing the bushes you have the same issue your problem is with the electronic pcb which senses when to engage the charging circuit. I have already had the unit off once removed the three screws but could not split the unit so assumed the front part came off over the pulley wheel rod I'm almost certain it's the bushes as when the battery has full charge every thing works ok but it soon looses it's charge have check all the wiring etc etc bear in mind my car has not been on the road for 18 months and I never had a problem before thanks very much for the tips will run through these before I remove it on Sunday----dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 (edited) ok removed the unit and dismantled gave every connector a good clean. bushes looked ok put back in car, started first go and all lights were out, run for about 5 mins warning lights came back on ,checked all connnections with car running .seems its not the bushes any ideas====== bushes pic 3 whats the unit I have circled in white and could it be that ????? pic 4 thanks for your help Edited March 16, 2014 by Dave (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share Posted March 17, 2014 anyone ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 Unit circled is the voltage regulator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitesupra95 Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 ^^^^this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share Posted March 17, 2014 Unit circled is the voltage regulator Cheers jag man do you know how I can test it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostbuster Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 I had a prob with one of the diodes breaking down:taped:, got a new diode plate fitted and everything was OK:innocent: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted March 18, 2014 Author Share Posted March 18, 2014 I had a prob with one of the diodes breaking down:taped:, got a new diode plate fitted and everything was OK:innocent: which is the diode in the pics ???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted March 24, 2014 Author Share Posted March 24, 2014 Can I buy a voltage reg from mr T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostbuster Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 Have you checked the diodes (individually) ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 You can buy a new regulator assembly, or a new rectifier assembly from Toyota. You may also be able to buy pattern parts. The rectifier may be easy to check with the diode test function of a multi meter. Testing the voltage regulator off the car may be a lot trickier. A good used alternator may be a simpler and cheaper route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted March 26, 2014 Author Share Posted March 26, 2014 You can buy a new regulator assembly, or a new rectifier assembly from Toyota. You may also be able to buy pattern parts. The rectifier may be easy to check with the diode test function of a multi meter. Testing the voltage regulator off the car may be a lot trickier. A good used alternator may be a simpler and cheaper route. I think you are right Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 There used to be a load of specialists with big buying powers for pattern parts and specialized gear for testing alternators and starter motors. If a used replacement worries you, they should be able to fix an off the car unit quite reasonably. There are now such a vast array of of units that it has become a niche marketplace though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted April 1, 2014 Author Share Posted April 1, 2014 Just had the guy from the garage do a voltage test and when the engine is running the voltage is dropping went to about 9.00. On the meter stopped the engine voltage read 11.6 ,he reckons the bearing has gone, slight squeeking noise would the bearing cause it not to charge ?? Does anyone know what the amps are 70-80 or 90 ? When it comes to electrics like this I'm a total noob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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