Tommyd16 Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 Just went to jump in the car to go home from my girl friends house and it won't start. Tried a couple of times. Turns over fine just missing a spark or fuel. May have flooded it now so going to leave it. I think it maybe the fuel pump as I can't here it prime when the ignition comes on. Car was running perfect yesterday. Checked the fuse for the fuel pump and that is ok. Going to order a new fuel pump - may aswell get a Walbro 255 as going BPU eventually?? Also I will change the spark plugs if someone will recommend some. What are people's thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 My thoughts are, don't order bits until you know what you need, or have at least exhausted all avenues of investigation You can test the fuel pump by bridging +B and FP in the diagnostics port in the engine bay. Just use a bit of wire or a paperclip. It'll run the fuel pump off the battery and you'll hear the (surprisingly loud) rushing of fuel through the system. If that works, try starting the car with the pump already running in this fashion. A common non-starting problem is the crank timing star coming loose off the crankshaft, meaning the ECU can't see the crank position any more. Check for diagnostics codes, and pull the coil packs and plugs to see if the plugs spark off the cam covers when it's cranked over. That's all a bit less £££s to start with than randomly buying pumps and plugs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommyd16 Posted February 16, 2014 Author Share Posted February 16, 2014 Hmm problem is I'm back on base now after having a lift so will be away from the car until Friday when I need to fix it at the weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommyd16 Posted February 16, 2014 Author Share Posted February 16, 2014 Thank you for the advice by the way. Where is the port I bridge and how do I check codes? It's a 96 TT auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommyd16 Posted February 16, 2014 Author Share Posted February 16, 2014 Never mind I think I have found it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommyd16 Posted February 16, 2014 Author Share Posted February 16, 2014 Where is the crank timing star? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tayfun.tugra Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 Where is the crank timing star? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 Where is the crank timing star? On the nose of the crankshaft, behind the crank pulley. Have a search on here, it's been covered a few times - - - Updated - - - Where is the crank timing star? On the nose of the crankshaft, behind the crank pulley. Have a search on here, it's been covered a few times Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommyd16 Posted February 17, 2014 Author Share Posted February 17, 2014 Had a quick look. Does the crank pulley have to come off to check it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Budz86 Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 I think so. A lot of the time now they are welded when the crank pulley is changed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 God, these threads drive me mad. For some reason people assume because it's a twin turbo Supra it must be something complicated and need specialist attention. Just forget spending hours "trying" things, sit down, work out a proper plan and attack it with a bit of thought. Are the cams turning? (Top cam cover off). Is there a spark? (Coil pack out and a known good, preferably new, plug in one of the towers grounded with a bit of wire). Is there fuel pressure to the rail? (Undo the fuel filter banjo bolt a crack). If yes to both is the spark at the right time? (Old school timing light on the No.1 plug lead, one of two rammed in No.1 coil pack to cylinders 1 and 2). Or a scope if you have access to one. Are the injectors opening (listen for them clicking when someone else is cranking, with a long screwdriver to your ear). OK, two tests need gear only the most dedicated petrol heads or garages will have, but the other tests are trivial. If the thing has fuel, a spark, valves that go up and down at the right time, and compression it should attempt to run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommyd16 Posted February 17, 2014 Author Share Posted February 17, 2014 Well I had about half an hour as it was half 9 at night. The first post says it turns over and is missing a spark or fuel. Due to the time I couldn't check anything else as this have my misses a 2 round trip to get me back to base as had work early this morning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommyd16 Posted February 17, 2014 Author Share Posted February 17, 2014 **update** had abit of fun the misses over face time. Got her to remove the fuse to reset the ECU - started the car, no luck bridged the sockets in the diagnostic port to check the fuel pump - couldn't hear a fuel rush, tried starting with paper clip in place - no luck Bridged the sockets to check for fault codes - no codes So I guess the fuel pump has gone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tayfun.tugra Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 Continuing from my last thread. On Sunday all of a sudden the car wouldn't start. Was running fine before. Got green flag out today. Car turns over Fuel pump is running NO SPARK on any of the coil packs They belive it could it be the clifford alarm immobiliser causing the fault? And they left it at that saying they couldn't do anymore. Could this be the only reason for no spark? Is there anyway to bypass the immobiliser? Happy to try afew things myself before I call clifford or call out an auto electrician Any help is much appreciated Tommy I hope you don't mind carrying this on from here... just helps everybody know what's been suggested and what's been done ect... ) what I have to say about call out mechanics (AA, RAC, Green Flag ect. is that some are very good and helpful, others are useless and suggest anything thats somewhat feasible. It may very well be the immobiliser but as Mr Wilson has said, start with the basics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommyd16 Posted February 18, 2014 Author Share Posted February 18, 2014 Ok sorry ** update ** Pump is running Turning over no spark I still haven't seen the car myself since Sunday and won't till Friday. After more hours of being on google I too belive it's not the immobiliser. I read one thing that may confirm the fault on a us supra site I think. It mentioned about a rattle noise that came from the timing belt area that jogged my memory from the other day, maybe a week ago. I heard a little rattle after a little investigation and a start or two later the rattle seemed to have cured itself. I've done over a 100 miles since then and everything was good until I want to start the car on Sunday night. The site says this little rattle turned out to be a washer from behind the crank sprocket?? So I belive this could be my problem as mentioned in the second post. If this star has become fully detached Could this ultimately cause zero spark? Would it not just spark at the wrong time? The Rev needle doesnt even slightly rock when turning the engine over. The only other thing I belive it could be is the ignitor but would this just fail all of a sudden or break down over time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommyd16 Posted February 19, 2014 Author Share Posted February 19, 2014 Another update. Had some jump leads on it just to see really and managed to get afew pops while turning over but still not starting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommyd16 Posted February 19, 2014 Author Share Posted February 19, 2014 Ok the car has started! Disconnected the battery for an hour or so (had already tried to reset the ecu the other day by removing the fuse) Rolled the car back a couple of feet. Also disconnected and reconnected the plugs under the auto gear selector just in case maybe it wasn't getting a good signal to say its in park. Reconnected the batt and it fired up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tayfun.tugra Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 Ok the car has started! Disconnected the battery for an hour or so (had already tried to reset the ecu the other day by removing the fuse) Rolled the car back a couple of feet. Also disconnected and reconnected the plugs under the auto gear selector just in case maybe it wasn't getting a good signal to say its in park. Reconnected the batt and it fired up Is it running smooth? Any smoke or stalling? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Roger NE Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 Glad you got it started . . . People neglect the electrics SO much on cars . . . firstly all the high current connectors to and from the battery and chassis/engine (as per my post on someone else's thread who cleaned them all up, and it sorted their starting and charging issues) But also all the small plugs that go to all the engine sensors, pick up power feeds, or gearbox signals. Those in the engine bay are exposed to TERRIBLE conditions (heat, dirt, wet) and can easily start to have a poor connection. And with these engines, you can just have ONE bad connection and it's enough to prevent your engine starting (or running properly) Personally I disconnect ALL my connectors every year and give them all a good clean. (using proper aerosol electrical switch cleaner/lubricant, sometimes rubbing with a matchstick if necessary) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommyd16 Posted February 21, 2014 Author Share Posted February 21, 2014 runs a liitle rough but thats because the cowboys of green flag broke the clip that goes onto no1 coil pack so the connecters are exposed and possibly might be shorting a little. ordered a new clip so waiting for them to arrive. going to take the spark plugs out and give them a clean aswell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 What state is this problem in now then? What's been checked and how does it behave? I gather you're still having problems based on other threads so let's have a round-up and see if we can help some more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommyd16 Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 I replaced the clip on top of the coil pack and it was running fine. Then Monday it wouldn't it start. I disconnected the battery for abit sprayed some wd40 over some plugs and it fired up. Drove from Basingstoke to Oxford fine. Popped out an hour later fine. Went to work fine. Wouldn't start after sitting for 7-8 hours at work. Have over 12v from the battery. It's only afew months old. Took out a coil pack and spark plug and put in it against cam cover fired it up and no spark. Cleaned battery connects, removed the ignitor and cleaned up all the contacts for it. Check cam sensor plugs are all on nice and tight still no spark. Disconnected battery over night. Still no spark. Ordered a new ignitor and if that doesn't work I will be ringing clifford to service the alarm at a price of £150. Still getting no fault codes. Engine turns over. Fuel pump runs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Next time it won't fire remove the air filter lid and filter and spray Easy Start into the filter box when cranking, or crank IMMEDIATELY after spraying a good bit into the box. If no attempt to fire it's definitely a no spark situation. The Australian market version of Easy Start is called "Start ya' Bastard" I kid you not..... http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Aerosols/Start_Ya_Bastard_Instant_Engine_Starter/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommyd16 Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 Haha I want some just for the name. What else would prevent a no spark situation? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan294 Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 No help whatsoever, but referring to what Chris said, this clip is amusing!: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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