Kaan W Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 (edited) Hi all, During my time on the forum I seem to get ALOT of people private message me on the removal of the autobox, why me I dont know but I have done this a fair few times now and thought it would be a good idea to create a guide for you guys needing step by step instructions on removing their transmission. Tools required: 10mm spanner 12mm spanner 14mm spanner 12mm socket 14mm socket 17mm socket 22mm socket Long extension bar or multiple joined (Approx 3ft) Trolley jack Large flat head screw driver Instructions: Firstly jack the car up and get all 4 wheels on axle stands or ramps, this will make everything alot easier. Also make sure the battery is disconnected first! 1) Undo the fluid drain plug (14mm socket) on the bottom of the transmission making sure you have a tray to catch the oil. 2) Once the fluid has drained undo the two nuts (14mm spanner) for the transmission cooler pipes, you will still loose fluid from the cooler lines so place your tray under these when removing. 3) Undo the nuts (12mm spanner) that hold the prop to the box flange then slide the prop back off the bolts or as far as it goes. 4) Now move to the front of the transmission and remove the little rubber cover at the bottom of the flywheel housing, you will see the torque converter bolts. Now you will need to take your 22mm socket to the crank pulley and turn the engine to access all the torque converter bolts. There's 6 in total iirc make sure they are all out! 5) Remove the 2 long bolts for the starter motor (14mm spanner) then tuck this out the way somewhere safe (dont leave it dangling from the loom). 6) Take the gear linkage off the transmission by removing the split pin. 7) Start removing the bolts around the transmission (14mm, 17mm sockets and spanners). 8) When your left with the top 2 you will need a very long extension bar or multiple joined together with the 17mm socket and come in from the back of the transmission above the flange. This may take a couple of hours!! 9) Remove all the electrical connections. 10) Take your trolley or transmission jack and place under the transmissions oil pan to support it. Its best to place a piece.of wood inbetween the jack and oil pan to avoid any damage. 11) Take the 4 bolts (14mm socket) out the crossmember that holds it to the chassis. 12) Very carefully prize the trans off the engine using a flathead screwdriver and off the 2 locating studs. You may need to hold the prop to one side as the trans slides back. Make sure the torque converter stays with the transmission as it slides off. 13) Before lowering completely make sure all the electrical connectors are free. Then lower keeping the torque converter attached to the transmission. Be careful the converter will still be full of fluid making it heavy so make sure you hold the converter inside the transmission at all times. With the above done you should have your transmission free. TAKE NOTE: When removing the converter from the transmission take the full weight of it as it slides out amd dont let it drop or move about as this could damage the pump. Ive got the removal down to about an hour now and it gets easier everytime, the first time took me a good half a day so take your time and be patient. This is only a rough guide and socket sizes may differ slightly as I'm writing this from memory so feel free to correct me or add any info I may have missed out. Thats all, good luck Edited February 18, 2014 by Kaan W Info added. (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FOSTA Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 Awesome dude, I will be using this when the time comes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor69 Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 Hi all, During my time on the forum I seem to get ALOT of people private message me on the removal of the autobox, why me I dont know but I have done this a fair few times now and thought it would be a good idea to create a guide for you guys needing step by step instructions on removing their transmission. Tools required: 10mm spanner 12mm spanner 14mm spanner 12mm socket 14mm socket 17mm socket 22mm socket Long extension bar or multiple joined (Approx 3ft) Trolley jack Large flat head screw driver Instructions: Firstly jack the car up and get all 4 wheels on axle stands or ramps, this will make everything alot easier. 1) Undo the fluid drain plug (14mm socket) on the bottom of the transmission making sure you have a tray to catch the oil. 2) Once the fluid has drained undo the two nuts (14mm spanner) for the transmission cooler pipes, you will still loose fluid from the cooler lines so place your tray under these when removing. 3) Undo the nuts (12mm spanner) that hold the prop to the box flange then slide the prop back off the bolts or as far as it goes. 4) Now move to the front of the transmission and remove the little rubber cover at the bottom of the flywheel housing, you will see the torque converter bolts. Now you will need to take your 22mm socket to the crank pulley and turn the engine to access all the torque converter bolts. There's 6 in total iirc make sure they are all out! 5) Remove the2 long bolts for the starter motor (14mm spanner) then tuck this out the way somewhere safe (dont leave it dangling from the loom). 6) Take the gear linkage off the transmission by removing the split pin. 7) Start removing the bolts around the transmission (14mm, 17mm sockets and spanners). 8) When your left with the top 2 you will need a very long extension bar or multiple joined together with the 17mm socket and come in from the back of the transmission above the flange. This may take a couple of hours!! 9) Remove all the electrical connections. 10) Take your trolley jack and place under the transmission to support it. 11) Take the 4 bolts (14mm socket) out the crossmember that holds it to the chassis. 12) Very carefully prize the trans off the engine using a flathead screwdriver and off the 2 locating studs. You may need to hold the prop to one side as the trans slides back. Make sure the torque converter stays with the transmission as it slides off. 13) Before lowering completely make sure all the electrical connectors are free. Then lower keeping the torque converter attached to the transmission. Be careful the converter will still be full of fluid making it heavy and you will loose some fluid so keep your head to one side! With the above done you should have your transmission free. Ive got the whole procedure down to about an hour now and it gets easier everytime, the first time took me a good half a day so take your time. This is only a rough guide and socket sizes may differ slightly as I'm writing this from memory so feel free to correct me or add any info I may have missed out. Thats all, good luck Great write up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRD-1 Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 Great write up Kaan, quick question.....when you support the transmission with the trolley jack before lowering it, where do you place the jack to keep the tranmission balanced so it doesn't fall to one side when lowering, is a block of wood needed or a special type of jack? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted February 17, 2014 Author Share Posted February 17, 2014 Great write up Kaan, quick question.....when you support the transmission with the trolley jack before lowering it, where do you place the jack to keep the tranmission balanced so it doesn't fall to one side when lowering, is a block of wood needed or a special type of jack? Good question, a square bit of half inch ply works well just to evenly support the transmission. I find its best to place the jack or transmission trolley just off centre of the sump towards the torque converter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 I would add: Disconnect the battery first! Support the auto box on a trolley jack, if supporting under the pan use a piece of wood to protect the pan from the jack saddle "raised bits". Push the torque converter fully rearwards into the gearbox bellhousing and make sure it stays there as the `box is removed. When pulling the converter out, once the `box is removed, do not allow it to damage the oil pump seal. Support it and pull it out straight. It's heavy! When refitting the converter into the gearbox (which must be done BEFORE refitting the `box, the converted stays inside the bellhousing on refitting), make sure you turn and push it rearwards until the drive dogs on the neck of the converter engage the drive dogs on the oil pump. It will then go back further, unless by luck they were aligned from the get go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emanwel Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 good info ! thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted February 18, 2014 Author Share Posted February 18, 2014 I would add: Disconnect the battery first! Support the auto box on a trolley jack, if supporting under the pan use a piece of wood to protect the pan from the jack saddle "raised bits". Push the torque converter fully rearwards into the gearbox bellhousing and make sure it stays there as the `box is removed. When pulling the converter out, once the `box is removed, do not allow it to damage the oil pump seal. Support it and pull it out straight. It's heavy! When refitting the converter into the gearbox (which must be done BEFORE refitting the `box, the converted stays inside the bellhousing on refitting), make sure you turn and push it rearwards until the drive dogs on the neck of the converter engage the drive dogs on the oil pump. It will then go back further, unless by luck they were aligned from the get go. Thanks Chris! I'll update the first post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T14PPA Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 Quick question. I know you remove the torque converter bolts before removing the gearbox. And take it out together. But i didnt quite understand the way of putting it back in! Ive just bought a pi3600 hi stall that im going to fit next week. How is that put on once the gearbox is out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted February 18, 2014 Author Share Posted February 18, 2014 You just need to slide it in carefully turning it so the grooves line up you will feel it as you turn then push it in. Make sure the holes are roughly in the same place as the flywheel holes as it can be difficult to line up once the trans is bolted up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T14PPA Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 Oww you got to do the torque converter bolts back up once the gearbox on? By the way great write up mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 Half fill the torque convertor with fresh fluid before assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted February 18, 2014 Author Share Posted February 18, 2014 Oww you got to do the torque converter bolts back up once the gearbox on? By the way great write up mate[/QUOT Yep thats right mate Half fill the torque convertor with fresh fluid before assembly. Yeah this as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T14PPA Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 Thanks boys this is great help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 There's an official Mr T. version in the WSM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T14PPA Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 I do have that. I just wanted to make sure on the instalation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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