mintedm Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 Replacing the water pump on the car, got the bottom crank bolt loose now before I go any further what do I line up - the notch on the bottom pully or the camshaft notches at the top, and I know it's been covered but can someone post a pic of what to make to take the pulley off, is it just like the old toyota drum brakes where u tighten the bolts and it eventually moves Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 You need a pulley puller bud, if you try to put bolts through the crank pulley threaded holes, you'll just split the lower belt cover. My crank pulley had two notches, oddly, so I'd suggest aligning the cam gears, then checking the notch on the crank pulley to the tdc mark. Put a little bit of tippex or similar, to make sure it goes back in the same place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 The holes in the crank pulley, are for bolting a puller to it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mintedm Posted February 15, 2014 Author Share Posted February 15, 2014 Yeh was going to mark the bottom as well mate cheers better with to many marks then not enough ! Only got one notch on mine so makes it easier , just having a scan of the pully pullers what's behind the crank bolt is it just the engine block at the back of it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mintedm Posted February 15, 2014 Author Share Posted February 15, 2014 Just reread my own question and it didn't make sense, when u use the puller it's not going to damage anything is it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 No, what you do, is leave the crank pulley bolt in - but loosen it off a few turns. The puller will bolt to the crank pulley, and the centre bolt of the puller, pushes against the crank bolt as you wind it up, which will pull the pulley off. You may have stop a few times, and slacken the crank bolt as it comes off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 Shame you're not closer, as I've got a brand new puller here that I could lend you, or even help you do it. Only done mine a fortnight ago! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mintedm Posted February 15, 2014 Author Share Posted February 15, 2014 Ah get you was looking at a few google pics, wondered if that was what was done, not a job for today anyway but thanks for your help least the bolt came loose no probs anyway, I'm sure I'll be back on to pick your brains! - - - Updated - - - Yeh pity wee bit to far!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 Well, if you get really stuck, I can always send you my puller, then just post it back when you're done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mintedm Posted February 15, 2014 Author Share Posted February 15, 2014 Well, if you get really stuck, I can always send you my puller, then just post it back when you're done What one did u buy gaz, just having a scan on eBay and hate to spend cash on something I'll prob use once,might take u up on that offer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor69 Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 I made one out of some angle iron with a couple of holes in for the bolts, easy really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 I'd agree, very easy to make one if you have some spare metal and a tap. I bought this one: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=141031571935 which worked well for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mintedm Posted February 15, 2014 Author Share Posted February 15, 2014 Surely another way would be to just drill 3 holes and weld 3 nuts onto the bar would that not work to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iky Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 Surely another way would be to just drill 3 holes and weld 3 nuts onto the bar would that not work to Actually you would only need to weld one nut to the bar. a big one in the centre to push it off. The other two for the 8mm bolts either side to fasten it onto the actual pulley which should be threaded unless its been stripped already. Sorry I cant remember the actual pcd off the top of my head but I drilled the other two holes 10 mm so a little bit of freedom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mintedm Posted February 22, 2014 Author Share Posted February 22, 2014 Actually you would only need to weld one nut to the bar. a big one in the centre to push it off. The other two for the 8mm bolts either side to fasten it onto the actual pulley which should be threaded unless its been stripped already. Sorry I cant remember the actual pcd off the top of my head but I drilled the other two holes 10 mm so a little bit of freedom. Ok mate, what's the best way to lock the engine got everything lined up but don't want it to move when I start removing the pulley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 Ok mate, what's the best way to lock the engine got everything lined up but don't want it to move when I start removing the pulley unless i'm missing something it doesn't matter if it moves? the cambelt runs on a cog behind the pulley, the pulley has a keyway so you can't lose the timing at this stage, just get the pulley off and then you can realign the marks by putting the pulley back on hand over the key way and turning. Then you can move on to the tensioner and removing the belt. The crank takes a fair bit to move to be honest and you can (carefully - bit of foam and low tension on the grips) use a pair of molegrips to clamp the top two cambelt pulleys lightly together. nb do you have a vice to reset the tensioner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mintedm Posted February 23, 2014 Author Share Posted February 23, 2014 unless i'm missing something it doesn't matter if it moves? the cambelt runs on a cog behind the pulley, the pulley has a keyway so you can't lose the timing at this stage, just get the pulley off and then you can realign the marks by putting the pulley back on hand over the key way and turning. Then you can move on to the tensioner and removing the belt. The crank takes a fair bit to move to be honest and you can (carefully - bit of foam and low tension on the grips) use a pair of molegrips to clamp the top two cambelt pulleys lightly together. nb do you have a vice to reset the tensioner? Yes got a vice mate, got the new pump on and bolted up , now just the fitting the tensioner what needs done to fit it back on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mintedm Posted February 24, 2014 Author Share Posted February 24, 2014 Ok can see why you need the vice, anyway got everything back on and bolted up only difference with the pump I put on had a small connection for a pipe underneath where the alternator bolts on I'm just going to block it off as the other one never had this, but what does it actually do/go ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted February 24, 2014 Share Posted February 24, 2014 I think its so if the water pump ever wears and leaks in the future this pipe ensures the water runs away from the alternator... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mintedm Posted February 24, 2014 Author Share Posted February 24, 2014 I think its so if the water pump ever wears and leaks in the future this pipe ensures the water runs away from the alternator... Ah right that would make sense then , just seemed odd it wasn't on the other one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMan Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 Ok mate, what's the best way to lock the engine got everything lined up but don't want it to move when I start removing the pulley if you have a manual car then 5th or 6th gear with the hand brake on and wheel chocks is fine. If you have an auto it's a right PITA I used the crank puller with an extension braced against the floor. I was really worried about snaping the bolts but they held Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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