Guest v160 Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 I have been on this forum for a few years reading threads and learning a lot but never really needed to make an account to ask any questions but here comes the ultimate questions which to my knowledge hasn't been discussed so here goes. What would be the weakest point on a stock 2JZGTE engine? i know they can handle extremely high power from stock but once you exceed that power what usually gives up first? conrods/pistons etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 The nut behind the wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Excuse me, I just couldn't resist. Conrods are generally first to go, somewhere between 750 and 1,000 bhp? depending on your luck or lack of it. Or at less power with more than 20:1 dynamic compression. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest v160 Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Are we talking wheel hp or crank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Fwhp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest v160 Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Ok conrods, pistons and ARP bolts will probably be the first on my list. I am looking for around 740bhp but half reliable. on stock head with cams Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 That'll do it, or settle for 40 less and save yourself a wedge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest v160 Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 (edited) I would happily settle for 700 but rather be safe then sorry. Would i need an engine builder to install conrods and pistons if the pistons are 86mm (Same size as the bore) or can any reputable mechanic just fit them straight in without any engine work needing to be done? Edited February 6, 2014 by v160 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee P Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Its the rod bolts that are the weak point, for that power you could just do the bolts. Obviously depends on your budget as while its all apart its a good opportunity to rebuild it anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 You would be utterly mad to try and build a genuine 700 BHP 2JZ engine by putting new pistons in used bores. The engine would need reboring and honing unless the stock bores were new, and perfect, and suitable forged pistons were available in stock bore size. It's increased RPM and stretch that breaks rod bolts. Not necessarily huge power and torque, per se. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz6002 Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 why 740bhp?! That's a very specific target... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 It's 20 BHP more than the guy up the road claims for his? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Just bolt the turbo on with some cams and a decent management system and see what happens. If it blows, you can get a new longblock for very little money anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest v160 Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 It doesn't have to be exactly 740. i should of said in the 700s. Seems to be the ultimate street setup on a supra, when you start going over 800 drivability starts getting worse and worse So you would recommend just replacing the rod bolts for that power? followed by apr head studs whilst am there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz6002 Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 I'd stay closer to 600bhp. That's still too fast to use properly in the UK, and you won't have to open the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Is your supra auto or manual? Any pics? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest v160 Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 I'd stay closer to 600bhp. That's still too fast to use properly in the UK, and you won't have to open the engine. It will be around 600 but at the wheels Manual Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 We like pictures here Good luck with the build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest v160 Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 will post some up when i get home Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 I'd stay closer to 600bhp. That's still too fast to use properly in the UK, and you won't have to open the engine. Seconded 600bhp at the crank seems an ideal balance of cost, reliability, hilarious terrifying fun and driveability on our roads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Agreed, for a street car I would say 600hp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastcar Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 I agree 600bhp for a road car and a good suspension system to transfer the power to the road and to get in and out of the corners. Personally I would spend money on the handling first before chasing numbers as power is nothing without control but that's just my opinion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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