ghostbuster Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 My beloved Supra has been off the road for a year or so ( no probs with the car, , , other things). Getting it ready or the 1st of Feb to tax it again, everything has been ok, Ive started it from time to time, no probs. Then today started up and 'Oil level' light on (level ok), battery light on (seem like it may not be charging enough, 2 days ago it was kicking out volts fine, I checked it), exhaust hot light on, (on a cold car). Charged the battery, no change. Hmmm. Where do I start please? ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 Have you tested the voltage of the battery with no load on it? Tested the output from the alternator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 Maybe alternator issue? Check what voltage you get at the battery with the engine running You will need fresh fuel in it though mate other wise it will run like poo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abz Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 I'd start with the battery first, take it out, fully charge it & then go from there. Double check fluids are all good in the engine bay too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LOGIE Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 Alternators failing cause lots of dash lights to come on. As swampy said check the output from the alternator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morpheus Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 (edited) Mine's been garaged for just over a year and apart from an old original battery that runs down every week, it's like nothing happened; well it didn't but you know what I mean. As long as the fluids are ok just idle it for half an hour to get it nice and hot and every few minutes give the rev's a sustained blip to about 4k to circulate the oil properly and dissolve any blockages. That's my advice. Think about it; if it runs ok but has not moved for a year it's very probably not going to be a failed component but more likely just the result of dampness and oil oxidation so get it nice and hot and if you're unsure of the alternator output, jump it or just start it (with a low battery in the car) with your headlights on dipped beam and if the alternator is good the lights will brighten substantially when it fires up. Disclaimer: Advice given does not in any way constitute advice of any kind, even though it is obviously advice and no responsibility whatsoever will be taken for damages to persons or property as a result of ignoring this advice. Edited January 25, 2014 by Morpheus (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branners Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 alternator failures do some wierd stuff with the supra. Best doing a search for alternator refurb kit on here and get one from Toyota (rather than forking out for a new one). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostbuster Posted January 28, 2014 Author Share Posted January 28, 2014 Many thanks for your replies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 Its also worth mentioning that dry joints occur on the PCB that the lights are soldered to. Although normally this causes the lights you mention not to come on, for how long it takes to pull that board out, I would check it. I seem to recall the dry joints appear around the ribbon cable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostbuster Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share Posted February 10, 2014 Well I'm glad to say it's back on the road, but not without a bit of a pain. The alternator was dead (well almost, the diodes were breaking down under load), got it fixed locally(in Barnstaple at ALTER START if you ever need it). But I had to take the radiator out as the bolt on the cowl were seized, I then discovered I needed a new radiator (better then I suppose, than down the road one night in the rain or something), then the steering fluid started to leak, it was the metal pipe coming off the return banjo joint, just where the plastic cover finishes, a rusted pinhole. Then a vac pipe dropped off, so loss of number 2 turbo power. Fixed all that now got a big stupid grin on my big stupid face as I drive down the road. Thanks again for your comments. Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morpheus Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Well I'm glad to say it's back on the road, but not without a bit of a pain. The alternator was dead (well almost, the diodes were breaking down under load), got it fixed locally(in Barnstaple at ALTER START if you ever need it). But I had to take the radiator out as the bolt on the cowl were seized, I then discovered I needed a new radiator (better then I suppose, than down the road one night in the rain or something), then the steering fluid started to leak, it was the metal pipe coming off the return banjo joint, just where the plastic cover finishes, a rusted pinhole. Then a vac pipe dropped off, so loss of number 2 turbo power. Fixed all that now got a big stupid grin on my big stupid face as I drive down the road. Thanks again for your comments. Mike. Sounds like you should have replaced the engine while you were at it! Glad to hear that it's all sorted. Is the battery holding charge ok now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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