Crash Bandicoot Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 Right, I'm at the point in my build now that I need to look into some in aliasing things... Old/doner car= 94 J spec hardtop NA-T 5 speed New car= 93 J spec aerotop rolling shell I've got the boot and rear bench and plastics all in, I've got all the suspension, engine, all ancillaries and Brakes including ABS in. Few things I'd like advice on: 1. I had an alarm system in the old car, how hard is it to swap it across? 2. Will I need to swap the ignition barrel across (I have keys to both cars) but will the ecu allow the engine to work without switching the barrels? 3. Are the clutch and break system as easy to fill and bleed as it looks like other cars? Anything I need to bare in mind? Any advice is greatly appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash Bandicoot Posted January 5, 2014 Author Share Posted January 5, 2014 Anyone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash Bandicoot Posted January 5, 2014 Author Share Posted January 5, 2014 ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgyRog Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 Brake bleeding is done in a certain pattern, there is a thread on here somewhere, probably in MkivTech Section Ignition Barrel/Keys, should matter And the Alarm just depends were they fitted everything, do what you have done with everything else and take pics of everything you disconnect, an reconnect it the same in the new shell. Hopefully it will then not cause any issues Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgyRog Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 One thread here http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?300542-Another-brake-bleeding-thread&highlight=bleeding+brakes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgyRog Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 BLEEDING BRAKE SYSTEM BRAKE BLEEDING PROCEDURES CAUTION: DO NOT allow reservoir to run dry during brake bleeding procedure. Use only clean brake fluid. Ensure no dirt or other foreign matter contaminates brake fluid. DO NOT mix different brands of brake fluid, as they may not be compatible. DO NOT spill brake fluid on vehicle, as it may damage paint. If brake fluid contacts paint, immediately wash with water. 1) If master cylinder is rebuilt or reservoir is empty, bleed master cylinder first. Bleed remaining wheels starting on wheel with longest hydraulic line and work toward wheel with shortest hydraulic line. 2) Raise and support vehicle. Ensure brake fluid reservoir remains at least half full of brake fluid during bleeding procedure. Connect one end of transparent vinyl tube to bleeder plug. Submerge other end of tube in a container half filled with clean brake fluid. 3) Have an assistant depress brake pedal several times and hold in depressed position. Loosen bleeder plug and drain fluid into container. Tighten bleeder plug. NOTE: Ensure brake pedal remains depressed until bleeder plug is tightened. 4) Refill brake fluid reservoir as necessary. Repeat step 3) until air is no longer discharged. Tighten bleeder plug to 97 INCH lbs. (11 N.m). Ensure fluid leakage is not present. Add fluid to reservoir. Repeat procedure for remaining wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Massey Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 If I remember right, rear offside is longest, then rear near side, front near side then front offside Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgyRog Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 How to Bleed the Master Cylinder From the manual: If the master cylinder has been disassembled or if the reservoir becomes empty, bleed the air from the master cylinder. (a) Disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder. (b) Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it. © Block off the outer holes with your fingers, and release the brake pedal. (d) Repeat (b) and © 3 or 4 times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash Bandicoot Posted January 5, 2014 Author Share Posted January 5, 2014 Cheers guys! You know quite a bit on handy bits don't you Rog You say the ignition barrel and keys should matter... What should I do then? Swap it all over? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Massey Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 Reference keys and barrel I'm sure it doesn't matter as the key or ecu uses an immobiliser. So should work just fine. Ref the alarm, what type is it? If it's a cat 1 you will find it's tied into a hell of a lot of things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash Bandicoot Posted January 5, 2014 Author Share Posted January 5, 2014 I'm not sure to be honest... Ill find out and post back on that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.