Crash Bandicoot Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 (edited) I am near the stage of putting my engine in, one problem... The fuse box! I am taking the engine from my manual NA-t and putting it in an aerotop that was an auto at some stage but I believe it has had a TT lump in before I bought it from Keron... The aerotop fuse box looks totally different internally in comparison to my NA-t one. Things I know: The NA-t one has a sandalone fan unit running in, The NA-t one has an extra grey box plugged in on the fuse board side, The NA-t one has been sliced into a few times. The aerotop one looks clean and uncut. Ill put some pics up and any advice would be happily received :/ Cheers guys! Edited December 26, 2013 by Crash Bandicoot (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash Bandicoot Posted December 26, 2013 Author Share Posted December 26, 2013 Supra fuse box This is the NA-t fuse box: And this is the aerotop one: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash Bandicoot Posted December 26, 2013 Author Share Posted December 26, 2013 Any auto electricians out there?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LOGIE Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 I recently changed an NA one for a TT one both were autos. The only difference was TT had airbag connectors at the ends of the loom. And a trac fuse in the TT one. Are you just changing the fuse box? I found changing the whole loom quite easy. Do you have the fusebox lids as the diagrams should give you an idea. If it were me id use the clean uncut one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash Bandicoot Posted December 26, 2013 Author Share Posted December 26, 2013 My engines going from a manual NA body to an auto NA body :/ are the fuseboxes different? What do I need to move? And to where? Do I need to remove any wires or use any from the manual NA-t one over to the aerotop auto one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LOGIE Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 IM no expert mate but I think they are the same, I don't recognise that large grey "self timer relay" with MT on it. do you have the full engine bay looms or just the fuse boxes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash Bandicoot Posted December 26, 2013 Author Share Posted December 26, 2013 I Have both full looms in both the cars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LOGIE Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 There are a few things you need to factor in. A) does the car have ABS? if so does the fusebox/bay loom you are going to use have ABS sensor connectors? These are under the wheel arches going to the sensors on the brakes obviously. B) NA-T one has been modified...do you know exactly what has been done and where all wires need to go? My advice use the unspliced one IF it has ABS connectors (if your car has ABS) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash Bandicoot Posted December 27, 2013 Author Share Posted December 27, 2013 The hardtop manual NA shell the engine came from had ABS. The aerotop auto shell the engine is going into doesn't have ABS. The wires that I disconnected from the fusebox when I took the engine out of the NA shell I have labelled, It had a battery relocation kit, which is easy enough as its the big red wire to the underside of the fusebox. It's had a mod for the standalone fan unit, which is the grey coloured relay that's on the NA picture with silver pen saying fan on it. It has a couple other wires that I disconnected also... So I know where they go on the manual NA fusebox but I'm unsure where to connect them in with the auto aerotop fusebox. How do you disconnect the wires from the fusebox? Is it a matter of pull them through from the back/wire side or do you push them through from the back/wire side to the front/relay/fused size? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash Bandicoot Posted December 27, 2013 Author Share Posted December 27, 2013 Any advice greatly appreciated as I'm waiting to put the engine back in now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LOGIE Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 Ive never heard of anyone disconnecting the wires in the fuse box. Only changing the whole loom with fuse box attached. It prob can be done but I guess you will need to go onto the home page and into repair manuals and look up the wiring diagrams. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash Bandicoot Posted December 27, 2013 Author Share Posted December 27, 2013 As logie says, I'm deciding to change the whole front loom over. P.s. I LOVE DODGY ROG, he's like a supra agony aunt to me. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wile e coyote Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgyRog Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 I'm deciding to change the whole front loom over. P.s. I LOVE DODGY ROG, he's like a supra agony aunt to me. lol Agony Uncle please:p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev.O Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 It looks like the large grey self timer relay has been added afterwards in place of the blue relay in aero top fuse board. From memory when I stripped down two fuse boards removing all wiring they are almost identical. The wires pull through the back. There is a cover strip under each fuse and relay. Take this off and using a small flat head, slide the cable out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash Bandicoot Posted December 28, 2013 Author Share Posted December 28, 2013 I've now removed the entire front loom from the manual NA, Nice easy job TBH, going to swap the whole lot over to the areotop. when I've been checking bits I found that where the loom plugs in, in the driver footwell there's an extra green plug that's not on the loom on the aerotop but is on the manual NA. So im glad I'm swapping the front loom over Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash Bandicoot Posted December 28, 2013 Author Share Posted December 28, 2013 PITA that the aerotop I got from Keron has had the two connections that are under the passenger seat have been cut, same on the driver side... So gotta look for some seats that aren't ran off the electric :/ or may have to splice into the loom where it's been cut and use the ones I have in the hardtop NA manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgyRog Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 None Electric drivers stock seats are very rare So aftermarket would be the easier option if you don't intend to replace the cut plugs The problem with that is the seat rails can be very expensive The Evo Recaro's seem to be getting popular now, but you would have to factor in the cost of some Bride Rails as well I would redo the wiring for the driver's side, I take it your passenger seat is manual anyway, as most are Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgyRog Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 Some on Carbon-Bullet's build thread and I think Alex (DriftBear) has them http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?287045-STAR-GT35R-new-seats&p=3790718&viewfull=1#post3790718 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash Bandicoot Posted December 28, 2013 Author Share Posted December 28, 2013 Ill see how easy it is to identify the wires and see if splicing is possible. I don't have the funds to play with right now for other seats let alone the rails needed to use them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash Bandicoot Posted December 30, 2013 Author Share Posted December 30, 2013 Now have the full engine bay loom from an auto aerotop for sale in really good condition (top horn wires cut off tho, still wired for one horn tho) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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