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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Does this mean heater matrix has had it?


rob_sri

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I don't really want to have to swap it..! But I think that's the answer.. I just don't want to do it and find that it hasn't fixed anything as I know it is a big PITA!

 

So symptoms are;

My heaters aren't working... Lukewarm at best then it goes cold again..

 

Car is not overheating gets up to temp quickly and then sits bang on the middle mark

 

I've checked the following..

 

Heater controls seem to be operating the servo in the passenger footwell all seems present and correct..

 

It's had a new thermostat, rad cap

 

I've just flushed the coolant for the second time .. Disconnecting the two pipes that come out the bulkhead and stuck a hose in there to flush the matrix... Lots of crap like sand came out.. Kept on doing this until it ran clear

 

image

 

image

 

i'm guessing it's designed in such a way that the heater matrix blocking up wouldn't effect the flow to the rest of the car?? So even though water is flowing through it may not be entering the matrix?

 

I've used search etc and just looking for some help.. It's really starting to annoy me and it's getting blooooody cold!!! :p especially with a metal gear stick!

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Hopefully il have an answer from one many more knowledgable forum members but il let you know how I get on :)

 

I have a feeling I've answered my own question but for anyone else it's worth trying all the steps above just in case .. I wouldn't be surprised if mine was blocked as the car had been standing for a while before I rescued it.. Just after another opinion..

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anyone got one from here? http://www.demisterman.co.uk/Toyota/Toyota%20Supra%20Mk4%201993-98%20heater%20matrix.php

 

*edit* I have read these don't run quite as hot as OEM.. however I dont know how fussed I am about that being as its a second car.. chances are if its really down below zero and freezing I wont be driving the car!!

Edited by rob_sri (see edit history)
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I think it might not need a new matrix. If water's getting through via the hose pipe, then it's not blocked. If water's not escaping into the cabin, then it's probably not leaking. My guess is that there may be an airlock in the matrix. Several knowledgeable people on here reckon the mkiv cooling system is self-bleeding, but I've had not much success in getting the air out. In the past I've filled up the system by cracking open one of the matrix hoses (they're the highest point): not great but it kind of works.

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I think it might not need a new matrix. If water's getting through via the hose pipe, then it's not blocked. If water's not escaping into the cabin, then it's probably not leaking. My guess is that there may be an airlock in the matrix. Several knowledgeable people on here reckon the mkiv cooling system is self-bleeding, but I've had not much success in getting the air out. In the past I've filled up the system by cracking open one of the matrix hoses (they're the highest point): not great but it kind of works.

 

the only thing I was thinking about this was if there was a bypass after the bulkhead to stop the heater matrix taking out the whole cooling system if it became blocked.. meaning that even with my flushing it might not be getting around the actual matrix.. im not sure how it is plumbed in behind the dash!! if this was the case then an air lock anywhere in the system too would mean that it would overheat..?

 

its not leaking I dont think.. never noticed any water in the cabin!

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AFAIK there isn't a bypass within the bulkhead or inner dash. When you flush, turn the heater temperature control to max: there's a small chance that this isn't necessary (depends if the temperature dial controls the coolant flow, or just the air mix). Don't take this as gospel, I'm not certain. Have a look at the workshop manual, I think it has a diagram of the coolant pipework.

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AFAIK there isn't a bypass within the bulkhead or inner dash. When you flush, turn the heater temperature control to max: there's a small chance that this isn't necessary (depends if the temperature dial controls the coolant flow, or just the air mix). Don't take this as gospel, I'm not certain. Have a look at the workshop manual, I think it has a diagram of the coolant pipework.

 

I've done this too ignition on and all the way to max temp/fans

 

For some reason I can't see it on the TSRM app under cooling..

 

It blew very slightly warm earlier then went back to being cold... All this time the engine didn't overheat at all completely bang on the mark

 

Such an arseache!

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if your heaters are cold make sure the vent control bar hasn't fell out in the passenger footwell.

 

Recently discovered this myself. Had 3 supras in recently and all had this issue, then found out even my own personal supra.

 

just clipped it back in and instantly hot air :)

 

Tim

 

:thumbs:

24042009021.jpg

24042009022.jpg

24042009026.jpg

Edited by Dnk (see edit history)
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no way where are you mate? there seems to be quite a few of us round here :)

 

after flushing I replaced the hoses clamped them up topped the rad and expansion back up with water.. ran it up revved it a few times then put the cap back on and took it for a spin

 

Solihull so only down the rd from you.

 

Check the part i've posted pics too that Tim mentions in the previous post

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if your heaters are cold make sure the vent control bar hasn't fell out in the passenger footwell.

 

Recently discovered this myself. Had 3 supras in recently and all had this issue, then found out even my own personal supra.

 

just clipped it back in and instantly hot air :)

 

Tim

 

:thumbs:

 

cheers guys but this was the first thing I checked :(! I was really hoping it was this too!!

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cheers guys but this was the first thing I checked :(! I was really hoping it was this too!!

 

When its cold try this,

 

Run the engine with the rad cap off, get it up to normal operating temp, set the heater

to max hot, raise the rpm to around 2500 and hold for a while, then release and top up

the rad as the bubbles come out, check the heater and repeat until its hot then top up rad

and put rad cap back on, fill expansion tank to max level

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Tried this also.. Just took it down a country lane held the revs night with the cap off and let it get up to temp .. Squeezed the hoses etc replaced the cap and drove back.. Car goes up to temp doesn't overheat but heaters are freezing..

 

I did hear a rattle from the front a couple of times which I've never heard before so maybe my water pump is suspect.. Strange cause it hasn't overheated not even slightly.. Got a big misfire now too thanks to getting water in the bores.. Looks like il be drying it all down and WD40'ing things tomorrow too!

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