ballsdeep Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 (edited) Hey guys, I'm having a slight issue with starting the car from cold, and with winter here I'm missing using the remote start to warm her up. Basically it takes a few seconds to fire up and I sometimes need to use a little throttle to get her going, the strange thing is if I instantly turn the engine off and restart it fires instantly?? A little bit about the car, its na-t with 7mgte 440's in and using resistors but I had these cleaned and tested so i was hoping I could rule these out. What I'm not sure about is If I should be using a fpr, doing the fuel pump 12v mod or get a fuel pulsation damper thingy..? No idea what benefits if any these would make? the last thing Is Iv already tried swapping out the ignition coil but it didn't make much difference, is it worth trying another ignitor or does it sound like a fuelling issue? Edited January 9, 2014 by ballsdeep (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 I think Berg had some issues with cold starting as well.. maybe fire him a pm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted November 22, 2013 Author Share Posted November 22, 2013 Cheers pal sent him a message Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 seems most NA-Ts ive read about seem to have cold starting issues. Wasnt Bergs issue with his dizzy bolts? might be worth a check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 (edited) seems most NA-Ts ive read about seem to have cold starting issues. Wasnt Bergs issue with his dizzy bolts? might be worth a check. Have to be honest.. mine starts perfectly from cold. Absolutely no different to when it was stock NA. It idles fine as well. That's with Emanage Ultimate on 650cc high impedance injectors. Lyndon (Nodalmighty) mapped mine for me. I know nothing about mapping cars so I will take it as a testament to his skills. Edited November 22, 2013 by Rich.2211 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted November 22, 2013 Author Share Posted November 22, 2013 seems most NA-Ts ive read about seem to have cold starting issues. Wasnt Bergs issue with his dizzy bolts? might be worth a check. Iv checked the dizzy cap and its secure, it's just odd that it will fire with a flick of the key second time round? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berg Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 My original cold start issue was related to the map which i took it back and had sorted and runs perfect whatever the weather now Was running a bit lean on cold start so would misfire and run crap for a few minutes then was fine. I never had a problem starting the car though so seems you have a different problem to what i had My recent problem was loose dizzy bolts which caused the top end misfire Its all fun and games lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 So I might have found the cause?? Though I would try turning the ignition on and off a few times hoping it would prime the fuel up enough for it to start first time but as I'm doing it I realise I couldn't hear the fuel pump noise I usually hear? Is there any tests/checks I can do to confirm this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berg Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 So I might have found the cause?? Though I would try turning the ignition on and off a few times hoping it would prime the fuel up enough for it to start first time but as I'm doing it I realise I couldn't hear the fuel pump noise I usually hear? Is there any tests/checks I can do to confirm this? I must admit ive never heard my fuel pump prime, i read somewhere they do not prime with ignition, you have to crank it A way of testing its working though is to bridge pins +B and FP in the diagnostic port (use a short piece of wire) then turn the ignition on (position 2) oh make sure the car is de-immobilised, then you should hear the pump start Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 Strange Iv always heard what I though was the fuel pump when ignition is turned on? Maybe I'm wrong? Atleast I can test it using your method. Cheers pal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berg Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 Maybe im just deaf, i do have all the factory fitted junk in the boot still along with a subwoofer so might deaden the sound a bit Test as above for peace of mind though, does the car run ok when it eventually starts? ruleing out possible ignition timing not set correctly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 Runs like a dream once started. Just cranks for 5 seconds then stumbles and starts, idles at 2k then drops to a steady 1-1100rpm What should I hear when I bridge the 2 pins? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berg Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 Bridge the pins then turn the ignition on making sure the cars de immobilised and you should hear the fuel pump start Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 Lol sometimes I amaze myself and ask really clever questions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted December 3, 2013 Author Share Posted December 3, 2013 Just a quick update, bridged te1 and e1 to read the error codes and it brought up error 24 any ideas what this could be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nodalmighty Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 Do you run an e-manage blue? Due to the way they work this could well be the issue. I would also check your inlet air temp sensor wiring/connector (code 24). I have a box full on IAT sensors if you want one sending. Lyndon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted December 3, 2013 Author Share Posted December 3, 2013 Cheers Lyndon. So code 24 is intake air temp issue, I'm using the e-manage ultimate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nodalmighty Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 Cheers Lyndon. So code 24 is intake air temp issue, I'm using the e-manage ultimate You should have no ecu issues then, blues can cause the engine be a real pig to start when cold if to big an injector is used. Lyndon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 i always hear my fuel pump prime on the first turn of the key its actually quite loud! though i have done the 12V mod. Do you get the erro code whilst driving or is this a stored code from previous? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted December 3, 2013 Author Share Posted December 3, 2013 Thanks nick for confirming I should be hearing the pump when the ignition is on, I used to but lately it's been very quite! Also Iv just bridged the +b and fp and couldn't hear the pump. Would this be the ecu that's at fault then? Thanks for all your help so far guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 Why don't you bridge the 12v supply to fuel pump ecu and check? I never heard my fuel pump run before I did it so it could just be the fact it's only running minimal voltage. Going back to the error code, my rubbish failed map from dyno tune caused a cel and the same error code plus that "misfire" check it's not the señsor first obviously. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted December 4, 2013 Author Share Posted December 4, 2013 So I double checked the pump again today while the roads were quite bridging +b and fp and Infact I can hear the pump and fuel flowing. So am I right in thinking doing this makes it run 12v and is it safe to try and start the car while it's still bridged? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted December 4, 2013 Author Share Posted December 4, 2013 Decided to MTFU and did it anyway, and it started instantly! So atleast I know if I do the 12v mod it will work but I'd rather have it fixed, so can any confirm it will be the ecu that's at fault before I buy one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 Could it be the fact your pump is only putting out 9v on start combined with 440 jets it's taking time to get enough fuel into the ports hence the slow start. I am surprised you haven't done the 12v fuel pump mod already using a relay. Might be a good start if it's starts first time with it done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted December 4, 2013 Author Share Posted December 4, 2013 Maybe? Id like to do the 12v mod but wiring scares the crap out of me!! I have the guide from mkiv.com and can cut and solder wires but it doesn't say anything about how to use a relay.. To put it another way I don't even know what a relay is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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