jackso11 Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 Is there an engine removal guide on here anywhere? I have been searching and can only find a link to a pdf that doesn't exist anymore (out to another site). Also, is anything coded to the ECU? I am pretty sure the answer is no, but want to double check. i.e. with If I just swap the engine over with another will it run fine or does it need the ECU paired with it at factory (if sticking with OEM ECU that is). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straightsix Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 Pretty sure the workshop manual (available on the forum) gives detail on engine removal? Could be wrong as I've never needed to use it! The ECU can be swapped to a different engine as long as it's for the same type of engine (NA ECU won't run a TT) although you can use an Auto ECU on a manual car but you can't use a manual ECU on an Auto. There's no immobiliser or anything coded specifically to the ECUs. Just bear in mind that if you're plugging in an ECU (or even after having the battery disconnected for a while) you need to drive the car for about 20 minutes for it to set itself up - so don't panic if the car runs rough initially Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Roger NE Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 (edited) The best advice I can give if you're replacing the whole engine is to leave the main Engine Loom on the actual engine . . . unplug it from the ECU and the various body connectors. That's presuming your replacement engine comes with it's Loom attached ! Also leave the Engine Mounts attached to the engine, not the car ! Well worth getting some practical advice from people who have taken lots of 2JZ engines in and out, as there are no "tips" in the Toyota manual . . . Like whether to to leave the gearbox in the car or remove both as one unit. On an N/A I'd say it's easier to leave the gearbox in the car . . . but don't think that's the case with a TT. (but I'm sure others will advise) Edited October 22, 2013 by Roger NE (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 If you can twirl a spanner you can get an engine out in a morning, Ive got it down to about 3 hours lol, the main stumbling block Ive found is the exhaust bolts, normally the need cutting off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Roger NE Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 Go on then Swampy . . . give the guy (and the rest of us) your Top Ten Tips to removing/replacing a 2JZ ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted October 22, 2013 Author Share Posted October 22, 2013 Tips and a link to the workshop manual please I just keep finding threads that mention it but not the file. I just bought the app, but can't print from it. Thanks in advance Swampy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 Tips and a link to the workshop manual please I just keep finding threads that mention it but not the file. I just bought the app, but can't print from it. Thanks in advance Swampy It's on the homepage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?136136-NA-to-TT-engine-transplant-step-by-step-guide-(Pic-heavy) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheTurtleshead Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 Leave the Gearbox on 100%, you'll most likely need to remove the front bumper and maybe crash bar and headlight support assembly to get the crane close enough. Disconnect the Loom from the ECU/Dash loom in the passenger footwell, not from the engine itself. Leave all the auxiliary parts on the engine… don't remove anything like alternator or PAS pump etc.. But remove the viscous fan for clearance. Take the bonnet off definitely. There are lots of small plugs to miss.. Steering rack low down on turbo side and the two plugs on the lower front section of the fusebox to name a few. Make sure you get them all. Also earths… top of chassis leg by the battery and bulkhead above and to the rear of the intake manifold, also on the same side to one of the bell housing bolts. If it's manual you'll need to remove the gearstick.. if it's auto just disconnect it. Auto- Remove cooling pipes from rad before removal of rad. Manual- Unbolt slave cylinder from gearbox, leave all fluids etc inside.. N/A (manual or auto) Drain G-box fluid. TT- Don't bother, just cap off cooling pipes. Those are the main points imo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 I'd reccomend unbolt ing the A/C and PAS pumps and just dropping them down under the engine. This will stop you having to disconnect the pipes and losing fluid. You can leave the fluid in a 6 speed but not a 5 speed. Once you slide the prop out all the fluid comes out the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheTurtleshead Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 I'd reccomend unbolt ing the A/C and PAS pumps and just dropping them down under the engine. This will stop you having to disconnect the pipes and losing fluid. That is actualy what I do as well! Brain fart! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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