Big Supes' UK-Spec - The Story So Far

[Big Supes]

3 minutes ago, mattdavies said:

The Link will monitor AFRs and the likes for you and react so much quicker then you can dream to anything that isnt right 

Exactly that mate.

[Big Supes]

Link G4X is on order. There's a bit of a back order which could coincide with the manifold and turbo arriving so it's not the end of the world. It would be nice to do it all at once, TBH. 

I've got some interior modifications to do as well. I've gone for a Hetherington Performance HVAC LED mod and a Hayai TRD rep / LED mod cluster to match. 

Currently debating a new double din head unit or scrapping that format all together as it's a bit dated, IMO. Instead, I'm thinking about blanking the head unit section of the dash to mount potential switches for boost settings and an auxiliary USB ports. For ICE, I'm thinking a Raspberry Pi with a large A4 (maybe smaller depending how obscure it looks) dimension mounted touch screen that is directly interfaced with the Link ECU and can run apps natively such as Spotify and Waze. Either that or just ran a tablet, but one which isn't locked down. 

All just theory for the time being, but I'm pretty sure it can be done and will offer a far superior set up for what I'm after. 

 

[mharvey]

5 hours ago, Big Supes said:

Link G4X is on order. There's a bit of a back order which could coincide with the manifold and turbo arriving so it's not the end of the world. It would be nice to do it all at once, TBH. 

I've got some interior modifications to do as well. I've gone for a Hetherington Performance HVAC LED mod and a Hayai TRD rep / LED mod cluster to match. 

Currently debating a new double din head unit or scrapping that format all together as it's a bit dated, IMO. Instead, I'm thinking about blanking the head unit section of the dash to mount potential switches for boost settings and an auxiliary USB ports. For ICE, I'm thinking a Raspberry Pi with a large A4 (maybe smaller depending how obscure it looks) dimension mounted touch screen that is directly interfaced with the Link ECU and can run apps natively such as Spotify and Waze. Either that or just ran a tablet, but one which isn't locked down. 

All just theory for the time being, but I'm pretty sure it can be done and will offer a far superior set up for what I'm after. 

 

Loving all the updates. It’s a nice build.

 

I’ve seen a few people run the link ecu’s to the RealDash app, lots of options for display with that. I thought about doing it with mine as I already had a tablet in the dash but I haven’t bothered.

 

On that note, I run a 2nd Gen nexus 7. It’s got a couple of mods so that it boots once it receives power etc and is all hard wired but it’d do exactly what you want (ie Spotify, Waze and realdash) 

 

it also fits perfectly behind the stock stereo bit with just a little trimming to the back of the panel. I can send a few photos if it helps when the time comes.

 

I’m changing mine out soon but simply for a different direction

 

 

[Swampy442]

Thats a neat install, more details please

[Burna]

15 hours ago, Big Supes said:

Link G4X is on order. There's a bit of a back order which could coincide with the manifold and turbo arriving so it's not the end of the world. It would be nice to do it all at once, TBH. 

I've got some interior modifications to do as well. I've gone for a Hetherington Performance HVAC LED mod and a Hayai TRD rep / LED mod cluster to match. 

Currently debating a new double din head unit or scrapping that format all together as it's a bit dated, IMO. Instead, I'm thinking about blanking the head unit section of the dash to mount potential switches for boost settings and an auxiliary USB ports. For ICE, I'm thinking a Raspberry Pi with a large A4 (maybe smaller depending how obscure it looks) dimension mounted touch screen that is directly interfaced with the Link ECU and can run apps natively such as Spotify and Waze. Either that or just ran a tablet, but one which isn't locked down. 

All just theory for the time being, but I'm pretty sure it can be done and will offer a far superior set up for what I'm after. 

 

Just a few thoughts based on experience. I've learnt that it's best to let your headunit be your headunit, your phone be your phone, and your satnav be your satnav.

I've seen alot of the cheap headunits be very buggy, same with software on a car pc etc... so I went with a Kenwood headunit that has wireless apple car play etc... It just works perfectly every time.

Satnav you want in your eyeline, and not having to keep glancing down and taking your eyes off the road, especially when we get on it around Europe on custom forced routes on twisty back roads. At the same time I run Waze on the headunit with voice alerts and only look at it when needed.

You really don't want to go back in time with mounting switches etc... to the dash mate, keep it simple and OEM. You don't need to be constantly switching boost maps or traction control, I'm willing to bet you will put it on the maximum boost setting and you will never touch it again like most of us lol

You also won't need to be monitoring things like the old days with nasty gauges everywhere or on a screen. Just keep it simple and fit a Toucan for the Link ECU, and let it do it's job for you. You can change all your settings from there if you wish, traction control, boost settings, monitor things if you want, but the main benefit of fitting a Link ECU is all the safeguards, and in turn the warning alarms that can be set up on the Toucan. it will bring to your attention anything you need to look at. Then you can spend more time on driving and enjoying the car  And the interior will look clean, simple, and OEM++

Edited February 10, 2022 by Burna (see edit history)

[Big Supes]

On 2/9/2022 at 9:42 PM, mharvey said:

Loving all the updates. It’s a nice build.

 

I’ve seen a few people run the link ecu’s to the RealDash app, lots of options for display with that. I thought about doing it with mine as I already had a tablet in the dash but I haven’t bothered.

 

On that note, I run a 2nd Gen nexus 7. It’s got a couple of mods so that it boots once it receives power etc and is all hard wired but it’d do exactly what you want (ie Spotify, Waze and realdash) 

 

it also fits perfectly behind the stock stereo bit with just a little trimming to the back of the panel. I can send a few photos if it helps when the time comes.

 

I’m changing mine out soon but simply for a different direction

 

 

Thanks buddy. That's a clean and simple install you've got there.

Initially I was thinking about just having the Link software running natively which would give me the freedom to see gauges and data logs if needed. Something like the RealDash could most certainly work as an option though. 

 

[Big Supes]

On 2/10/2022 at 7:57 AM, Burna said:

Just a few thoughts based on experience. I've learnt that it's best to let your headunit be your headunit, your phone be your phone, and your satnav be your satnav.

I've seen alot of the cheap headunits be very buggy, same with software on a car pc etc... so I went with a Kenwood headunit that has wireless apple car play etc... It just works perfectly every time.

Satnav you want in your eyeline, and not having to keep glancing down and taking your eyes off the road, especially when we get on it around Europe on custom forced routes on twisty back roads. At the same time I run Waze on the headunit with voice alerts and only look at it when needed.

You really don't want to go back in time with mounting switches etc... to the dash mate, keep it simple and OEM. You don't need to be constantly switching boost maps or traction control, I'm willing to bet you will put it on the maximum boost setting and you will never touch it again like most of us lol

You also won't need to be monitoring things like the old days with nasty gauges everywhere or on a screen. Just keep it simple and fit a Toucan for the Link ECU, and let it do it's job for you. You can change all your settings from there if you wish, traction control, boost settings, monitor things if you want, but the main benefit of fitting a Link ECU is all the safeguards, and in turn the warning alarms that can be set up on the Toucan. it will bring to your attention anything you need to look at. Then you can spend more time on driving and enjoying the car  And the interior will look clean, simple, and OEM++

I can't really argue with anything you've said, especially regarding leaving it in high boost lol. 

I guess I've never really liked the head unit location in the Supra. I appreciate they weren't thinking about sat navs, etc at the time, but it's too low down for me.

Years ago I felt the same way about the stereo location on my Renault 5 GTT, so with a bit of effing about, I swapped it's location with the HVAC controls. It worked a treat and I think doing same on the Supra will also modernise the dash, especially with a flat screen or tablet. I'm not really a fan of the box-like gauges like the toucan or deleting the OE clock or vents if I'm honest. 

Obviously the above will entail removing the center dash panel and taking a mould to make the modifications. 

[Big Supes]

Not a lot to report so a few piccies from today... 

[Big Supes]

Did a bit of wrenching of the twins today. 

Felt like a good time to stop and douse the manifold nuts in penetrating oil. 

Not sure whether to try and separate the turbos first to get better access to the lower run of nuts or just aim to get the manifold off with them attached. 

 

[Big Supes]

Mini thread update... 

Thrown the stock radiator and air conditioning condenser in the skip yesterday. They weren't in the worst condition, but as we're asking more from the old girl, I think it's best not to skrimp on cooling. 

Heading over to SRD tomorrow to pick up some goodies... exciting times.

 

[Big Supes]

Goodies from SRD!

New Toyota rad switch and thermostat, SRD titanium manifold stud/nut kit, Koyo Series R radiator, Link G4X plug 'n play ECU with AEM Wideband and sensors to get me started, SRD cooling panel and FMIC kit. 

Feeling happy about the course of direction for the build after a good chat with Lee and the guys. Top top lads with a crazy wealth of knowledge. 

Honourable mentioned to Mr Chingy for the 4" down and mid pipe. Thanks for holding onto it mate. 

 

[Chingy]

My pleasure, great to see you again ...thanks for making the trip and pleased to see it go to an awesome build. Looking forward to the updates and seeing it all up and running 

[Big Supes]

31 minutes ago, Chingy said:

My pleasure, great to see you again ...thanks for making the trip and pleased to see it go to an awesome build. Looking forward to the updates and seeing it all up and running 

Thanks buddy. 

The RSP looks to be making decent progress from what I saw when I was down there.

Hopefully catch up with you next time I'm over that way again. 

[Burna]

13 hours ago, Big Supes said:

Goodies from SRD!

New Toyota rad switch and thermostat, SRD titanium manifold stud/nut kit, Koyo Series R radiator, Link G4X plug 'n play ECU with AEM Wideband and sensors to get me started, SRD cooling panel and FMIC kit. 

Feeling happy about the course of direction for the build after a good chat with Lee and the guys. Top top lads with a crazy wealth of knowledge. 

Honourable mentioned to Mr Chingy for the 4" down and mid pipe. Thanks for holding onto it mate. 

 

Some really nice bits there mate, and I've just fitted a Koyo rad, first tests driving it shows it works really well! But I wish you had gone ETS FMIC mate!

[Noz]

32 minutes ago, Burna said:

Some really nice bits there mate, and I've just fitted a Koyo rad, first tests driving it shows it works really well! But I wish you had gone ETS FMIC mate!

I've never seen any comparison data on makes, I've always felt size contributes more of a performance difference on heat transfer, than manufacture variation.

I have an ETS cooler. I just wish I went 5" instead of 4".

An inch matters!

Edited April 27, 2022 by Noz (see edit history)

[Burna]

31 minutes ago, Noz said:

I've never seen any comparison data on makes, I've always felt size contributes more of a performance difference on heat transfer, than manufacture variation.

I have an ETS cooler. I just wish I went 5" instead of 4".

An inch matters!

I have seen some data, and there's a big difference, and that was a 4" on both. It's more due to with the core design, but of course a 5"  FMIC with poor core design will perform better than a 4" FMIC with poor core design.

You've definitely made the right choice, 4" ETS is perfect. 5" ETS is for the silly high horsepower cars mate.

Edited April 27, 2022 by Burna (see edit history)

[Noz]

1 hour ago, Burna said:

I have seen some data, and there's a big difference, and that was a 4" on both. It's more due to with the core design, but of course a 5"  FMIC with poor core design will perform better than a 4" FMIC with poor core design.

You've definitely made the right choice, 4" ETS is perfect. 5" ETS is for the silly high horsepower cars mate.

4" will only do 850 I thought. 1000hp is the biggest ill ever want.

@Big Supes what size is this one?

[Burna]

28 minutes ago, Noz said:

4" will only do 850 I thought. 1000hp is the biggest ill ever want.

@Big Supes what size is this one?

Oh! Well yeah that's a different matter lol I wasn't thinking about those numbers tbh I couldn't confirm what the ETS 4" would be capable of, but yes you're right a 5" would be better at those sorts of power levels for sure.

[Big Supes]

8 hours ago, Burna said:

Some really nice bits there mate, and I've just fitted a Koyo rad, first tests driving it shows it works really well! But I wish you had gone ETS FMIC mate!

I hear you mate, but after chatting with Lee, I opted for the SRD kit as it'll do the job just fine. 

@Noz4". You really don't want 5" for your power goals as it'll just cause unnecessary lag. 

[Chingy]

23 hours ago, Big Supes said:

Thanks buddy. 

The RSP looks to be making decent progress from what I saw when I was down there.

Hopefully catch up with you next time I'm over that way again. 

Yeah she is coming along, really pleased with the progress and again SRD smashing.

Definitely, look forward to catching up …. Maybe over a Nandos

Good luck with the build 

[Burna]

12 hours ago, Big Supes said:

I hear you mate, but after chatting with Lee, I opted for the SRD kit as it'll do the job just fine. 

@Noz4". You really don't want 5" for your power goals as it'll just cause unnecessary lag. 

Yep it will do the job fine you are right Lee's a mate, so I'm going to leave the whole FMIC comparison there now  Looking forward to seeing it running mate.

[Noz]

12 hours ago, Big Supes said:

I hear you mate, but after chatting with Lee, I opted for the SRD kit as it'll do the job just fine. 

@Noz4". You really don't want 5" for your power goals as it'll just cause unnecessary lag. 

4" for 1k?

[Mike2JZ]

You wont have a noticable lag increase going from 4'' to 5''
 

 

[Noz]

16 minutes ago, Mike2JZ said:

You wont have a noticable lag increase going from 4'' to 5''
 

 

But would it do 1k my man

[Mike2JZ]

27 minutes ago, Noz said:

But would it do 1k my man

Just about at the crank, probably not at the wheels. Depends on turbo and setup really. Personally if I was trying to do it on a 4'', I'd using something from ETS or Garrett core, they are the only manufacturer that rates their cores with around 4'' sizing to 1000hp and have good air charge cooling properties. 

Edited April 28, 2022 by Mike2JZ (see edit history)