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Clutches and Fly Wheels.


Suprash

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Right guys, took my car to docters and it seems its my clutch thats gone. So I now have to decide on what to replace either a stock clutch kit, or something more heavy duty, which I think is the option I have to go for, seeing as it could have been my playing with doughnuts in car parks. Now I first got informed of paddle clutches, I know nothing about this, but have since found out these are serious pieces of kit and probably wont ever need this for my power, so a good uprated road clutch is what Im after. Anyone had any fitted, know of any that could help me out.

 

And as its all out Im going to put in a new fly wheel, but again this is way over my head, anyone had an aftermarket fly wheel fitted or know whats what, good, bad........

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I am going though the same thought process at the moment

with the car being booked in next saturday

 

I have the choice of a organic clutch keeping the std flywheel or a cera-metallic clutch with lightened flywheel

 

my understanding of it is that with a organic clutch it can slip, so its recommended to go for a metallic plate as these do not slip

though are obviously more expensive

 

lightened flywheel means the engine will rev quicker, however won't make a difference to top speed etc though could benefit initial acceleration

downside is it may slightly affect economy on long journeys as there is less spinning momentum in a lightened wheel meaning the engine works more to keep it spinning

 

I expect to be corrected on this so thats why I am writing it so I get the right answer :)

 

Dave

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I've got a full-face Kevlar clutch in my Mk3, holds loads of power but is really smooth and easy to drive in traffic etc, highly recommended! Things to note are - the less paddles you have the harsher the clutch is (ie 6 paddle is fast-road, 4-paddle is race), and always get a clutch palte with a sprung hub as a solid hub will beat up your gearbox pretty quick.

 

I couldn't really see the point in a lightened flywheel on a road car so I didn't bother myself. I spent the money on other things that would give me more performance gain.

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Guest Martin F
Originally posted by Adam Wootten

and always get a clutch palte with a sprung hub as a solid hub will beat up your gearbox pretty quick.

 

 

That doesn't apply to the MKIV Adam as we have the sprung (dual mass) flywheels.

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Regarding the clutch, and I know I've banged on about this before, but I still haven't come accross anything nicer than than a CentreForce 'Dual Friction' in terms of uprated clutches for the Mk4.

 

Pedal pressure barely noticeable over standard, biting and slip control only slightly sharper than stock and strong enough for me to have one in my big twin for over two and a half years. Can't be bad. About £680 inc. VAT.

 

That said, if you want to play 'Johnny Full-Bore Standing Starts' then you'll only be totally safe with something like a multiplate HKS ceremetallic paddle which comes complete with lightened steel flywheel. Say hello to £1500 inc. VAT.

 

As for flywheels, we are seeing many Mk4's which need replcements now. The dual mass flywheels, although not failing totally just wear and cause all sorts of rattles and knocks on idle. If you're unsure whether you are close to needing it replaced measure the side to side movement of the ring gear relative to the crank. A new flywheel has about 33mm. A rattly, but still perfectly driveable one will be about 50mm and anything around 60mm is totally shot.

 

I've never used anything other than stock Toyota. They are cheap, vibration-free and will be perfectly adequate for all but the most looney soops. Lightened steel aftermarket jobs are available but any car that REALLY needs one usually needs a proper clutch too so you might as well go HKS and kill both at the same time.

 

Hope that helps,

 

Nathan

TDI PLC

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I had this same quandry recently. I went for a stock clutch as they are good for about 500bhp and I wont be going anywhere near that figure for a while.

 

Chris Wilson also does a modified stock clutch but it was out of my price range so I went with stock. My flywheel was replaced a while back by the previous so I didnt have to worry about that.

 

JB

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Cheers Guys, I knew this was going to be nightmare. If I go for an aftermarket fly wheel or clutch is there more chance of it making these strange noises on tick over or is that just because their current fly wheel is wearing out. I take it from whats said that they usually only make a noise when theirs is wearing but wouldnt want an after market one if they do the same. Hope Im understanding this.

 

So want I need is a ceramic one, the less paddles you have the quicker the thing bites but you compromise ease of use. I want it to be drivable in traffic, but that HKS kit is way out of my price range, As for the centre force kit, will this be able to handle more power than a standard Toyota one, more affordable, but I wondering what the advantgages of spending £680 over a standard Toyota kit for £170.

 

Im starting to think Branners route is more affordable, standard clutch if these are good for up to 500bhp but I have managed to kill mine, although Im wondering how much of this was down to me as I have only had the car since Aug last year, so maybe with a new standard one, I might be able to make it last. Anyway standard clutch with a lightened fly wheel, as I deffinatly want to try and improve the exceleration lower down in the RPM range.

 

Guess Im going to have to have look and see whats out there, any other experience in this still welcomed.........

 

;)

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I had my clutch and flywheel replaced last year by CW. Cos im near stock BHP, I was advised to stick with the stock Toyota set-up.

 

The flywheel was a LOT cheaper than I had been lead to believe and stopped my Supra sounding like a tractor everytime I changed gear...

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Sorry, just re-reading that lot, you say its not a good idea to go lightened fly wheel and standard clutch, anybody done this, views........

 

I would rather have your guys own views than what I might be lead to believe from a company web site who produce this stuff.

 

:thumbs: :thumbs:

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Guest Terry S

Guys Leon is selling Kevlar Clutches now. I have a Kevlar/Metallic Paddle one which is holding up just fine & is much easier to drive than my old RPS dual friction.

 

The TRD clutch is just a stock disc with an RPS or similar pressure plate.

 

Lightened flywheels. I have had mine for over 2 years & love it. Driving a MKIV with the stock flywheel feels sluggish. There is probably very little performance gain but it feels quicker;) The downside is that it will rattle like a tractor no matter what clucth you use, also the revs drop dramatically on gear changes. If you go with the lightened flywjheel make sure you get a sprung hub one( clutch plate), to try & help the Gearbox a little bit. Also beware I had to get a new hardened steel centre put in mine as the one that came with it warped after 6000 miles.

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Guest Terry S
Originally posted by eyefi

which fly was that terry?

 

Sorry I meant talk about the Clutch.

 

I have an Unorthodox Racing Flywheel.

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Guest Terry S

Most just machine the stock PP to add more clamping pressure. I have seen a JDM TRD clutch & it certainly looked like a machined stock PP to me.

 

Is it you thats been talking clutches with Leon recently??

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I'll give Leon a call as well, do we want more plates or less when it comes to clutches, sorry if that seems dense, but I have just been trailing the net over this, and what with RPS, street, twin, single, carbon, billette and god knows what else, Im starting to feel this is going to take a while for me to get my head around, something I havent got unfortunalty........

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like nathan's stated b4 a couple of plates stand up to full on standing starts better. stock disc and uprated pressure plate hold well with spirited driving at bpu. the multiplate clutches tend to rattle more and r harder to drive in traffic, with the odd (very expensive) exception.

 

im usure whether to go for a sprung light fly or sprung disc, is there more benefit either way?

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I just fitted an RPS lightened flywheel in my beast and its superb, revs up quicker and no rattling whatsoever, you wouldn't know the difference in that area.

Also fitted a 6 puck with sprung hub disc as the std discs i was using started to slip.

For your use Ash I'd recommend an RPS max series with street(std) disc, thats what I've been using for years now and only just started slipping now I've been bunging 600bhp through it.

If you can afford a flywheel then do that as well.

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On a BPU car I would stick to the stock clutch, pressure plate and flywheel.

 

On a car with Hybrids I would go stock clutch, uprated pressure plate and stock flywheel

 

Above that I would know what to do. There are so many people who have had bad and ultimately expensive experiances with aftermarket clutches it's a minefield

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Yep, I must have spent more time researching clutches on my project than I did on anything else! (Mainly cos it didn't involve getting rained on!) I'm happy with what I've ended up with but I'd say follow Gavins advice above and go as close to stock as you can get away with at your power level.

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