FilS004 Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 Hi all, looks like I still have a problem with my No. 6 cylinder. I have melted another plug in the same hole that the ground electrode burnt off earlier on in the year. All other cylinders are normal, so does anyone have any idea why this particular cylinder is melting my plugs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 det you must have a bad injector 6 cylinder if i was to hazard a guess, you should get a ebay jobby bore scope and have a look at youir piston i suspect its damaged Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FilS004 Posted September 16, 2013 Author Share Posted September 16, 2013 Thanks mellonman, I have looked down at the piston, but can't see anything untoward. What do you mean by a bad injector 6 cylinder. Do you mean a bad injector in No. 6 cylinder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 6 cyclinder looks to be getting hot this could be down to a bad injector for that said cylinder, i would get them flow tested for sure , and a propper bore scope to check everythings okay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slutters Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 You might not be able to see the det, the edge of the top ring is the edge of the camber so you may have damage there. Mine looked ok from the top but the det had eaten the ringlands away Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FilS004 Posted September 16, 2013 Author Share Posted September 16, 2013 Ok thanks again. It looks like I will be taking the head off for a proper look. I have blown my turbo's so i will be doing that at the same time. What is the det? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 Ok thanks again. It looks like I will be taking the head off for a proper look. I have blown my turbo's so i will be doing that at the same time. What is the det? Here is a link that will give you a basic explanation, http://www.contactmagazine.com/Issue54/EngineBasics.html If you intend to modify/increase engine power you need to have a good read up on all the basics of engine tuning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FilS004 Posted September 16, 2013 Author Share Posted September 16, 2013 Thanks for the link Tricky Ricky, that is very intersting. so just sticking on parts to make me go faster, wasn't a very good idea in the long run then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 You need to pull all the pistons and properly check for damage and have them crack tested. I'd be surprised if number 6 isn't damaged to some extent seeing that plug! Get the injectors flow tested, and you NEED a wide band Lambda gauge. Buy a decent one, there is some junk about at the lower price end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FilS004 Posted September 16, 2013 Author Share Posted September 16, 2013 Yeah, already got a wide band lambda gauge Chris, but i haven't learnt how to read it properly yet. It idles at 21.5 and drops to 11 initially then moves up to 14ish while accelarating. I am also able to plug in to my laptop and look at a graph of what has been happening. I will do the necessary with the 6th piston, because when I was looking with the bore scope, I saw a weird reflection from the lights that I thought was just a reflection of the lights in the oil, but now thinking about it, it could well have been a hole in the top of the piston. Bu**er !! Head off then ! With regard to the flow test, my next stage was to upgrade the fuel system anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gpro Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 idles at 21.5? i highly dout that. Engine would of cut out. You mean it goes to 21 when you lift of the throttle? for a split second Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 If its at 14 while accelerating, theres your problem! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 yep you should of been seing 11.0 - 11.2 to be on the safe side, shame you didnt know what the gauge was showing you , it might of saved your engine what sort of spec it the car ? n/a -T, TT, single ? as this may not be an injector problem it could well be a bad map or no tuned ecu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gpro Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 If its at 14 while accelerating, theres your problem! depends what he means by accelerating? if your at low rpm using 10-15 throttle its fine but 100% throttle/WOT then yes thats your problem! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slutters Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 Any outcome of your previous thread? http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?275077-Misfiring-buffeting/page3 I would take it to Chris Wilson and see what he says. Before you are looking for a new engine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FilS004 Posted September 16, 2013 Author Share Posted September 16, 2013 Regarding the above 4, yes, idling at 21ish, initially 11 when I start to accelarte and it is around 14 whilst I am accelarting, definately. Can't reprove that, as it is not running now, but thast was correct. What does that tell you mellonman / Gpro? Unless it was mapped when I first got it 13 yrs ago, then I don't know if has been mapped. It is a 93 TT Yes, the last thread I fixed with new coil packs and new plugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 Yes definitely a problem, what make is the wide-band and is it correctly calibrated? they can go out, you could well have ring-land/ring damage, have you run a compression or leak down test on it yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 I just read that other thread I even said det a year ago lol. 11 then going to 14 could be a failed sensor, did you buy the afr gauge new? Just so you know 11. Means 11 parts air to 1 fuel, and 14 means 14 parts air to 1 fuel So 11 is a rich fuel mixture and 14.7 is the normal idle / closed loop/, stoich ,mixture 15 or greater is lean Driving should be 14.7 light throttle up to 0.5 boost Accelerating building boost low13's Full throttle should be low 11's Lifting off throttle should be 18+ Hope that helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FilS004 Posted September 16, 2013 Author Share Posted September 16, 2013 No, I am not able to do anything on this until the weekend, as I have a poorly Jeep that really needs full attention at the mo, because my better half is driving my spare car, so I haven't got one. I didn't know that the WBand required calibrating at any time, other than when I first put it in. I had to measure tha clean air just before I put it into the exhaust hole, so that it had something to measure. There was no mention of having to recalibrate in the instructions. It is a 'Innovate' wide band meter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gpro Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 like mensioned before get your injectors flow tested and if you can check your fuel pressure what ecu have you got? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FilS004 Posted September 16, 2013 Author Share Posted September 16, 2013 Standard ECU as far as I know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gpro Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 then it wont be mapped. Stock ecu's can't be mapped. Long shot but when was the last time your fuel filter has been changed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FilS004 Posted September 16, 2013 Author Share Posted September 16, 2013 Never changed it. I have thought about it before, but every where I have read that I didn't need to. Where do I look to see if it is a standard ECU? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gpro Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 Passenger side where you rest your feet. Pull the carpet up then you need to remove the black case i think its 2 10mm nuts or 12mm cant remember. The ecu will be their. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 No, I am not able to do anything on this until the weekend, as I have a poorly Jeep that really needs full attention at the mo, because my better half is driving my spare car, so I haven't got one. I didn't know that the WBand required calibrating at any time, other than when I first put it in. I had to measure tha clean air just before I put it into the exhaust hole, so that it had something to measure. There was no mention of having to recalibrate in the instructions. It is a 'Innovate' wide band meter. Innovate sensors need to be re calibrated under certain conditions, it does usually say in the instruction's, it can be done on closed throttle with the injectors shut off, I preferred to recalibrate mine every three to six months, better than the AEM chuck it in and forget it method IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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