BazzaAlpine Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 Okay, a few weeks ago I started to get a squealing sound from the passenger side rear wheel but only after I had been on the move for a while which stops under breaking. I jacked the car up and checked for wheel movement but it seemed solid. I did notice the pad was getting a bit low so I thought it could have been that. Well I changed the rear brake pads over the weekend and noticed something really odd with the pads from that side. The outer one was worn right down but the inner one still had most of it's pad left but was showing wear on the upper and lower edges :s Drivers side were both worn evenly. Does this mean the bearing has gone kaput on the rear passenger side? Let's face it, it's one of the few things that I've not had to replace with this fing car so wouldn't surprise me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest aspire Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 could the caliper not just be seized? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straightsix Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 If you're getting uneven pad wear I would suspect a seized caliper - either piston or slide pins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wile e coyote Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 As above Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 Ditto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BazzaAlpine Posted September 10, 2013 Author Share Posted September 10, 2013 Would that also explain why it will suddenly start squealing as I'm driving down the A14 when I've not used my brakes for a while? Only happens when driving straight. If I move the steering wheel slightly the noise goes away same as if I brake then lift off the brake it goes away for a while O.o Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Roger NE Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 (edited) Would that also explain why it will suddenly start squealing as I'm drivingI would say so, yes The fact that the OUTER pad was worn but the inner one wasn't means that your actual Caliper Piston is OK . . . but the SLIDER is probably seized. On most cars these days, they only have pistons on ONE side of the Disc, so the pressure on the other side is achieved by the whole Caliper sliding so that the disc is squeezed equally on both sides. Did you not check that the caliper could slide freely when you checked the pads? (This is a common problem, which is why I re-grease my sliders at least once a year - in the past I've had them seize so solid that NOTHING would free them, not even heat and a sledgehammer!) By the way, when Wheel Bearings are badly worn you normally get a very low-pitched rumbling sound from the offending wheel Edited September 10, 2013 by Roger NE (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 As already said, sounds like a seized caliper. Which brakes do you have fitted, the smaller 2pot/1pot or larger 4pot/2pot? Pics of each here http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?249089-Supra-Brake-setups&highlight=brakes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BazzaAlpine Posted September 10, 2013 Author Share Posted September 10, 2013 I have the smaller jspec 2pot/1pot. Thanks for all the info guys. I'll see about greasing the sliders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 I have the smaller jspec 2pot/1pot. Thanks for all the info guys. I'll see about greasing the sliders. If the caliper(s) has seized you'll probably find the seals are split/perished. If they've not been serviced for a while I'd strip and rebuild all the calipers with new seals. Toyota sell rebuild kits which include new seals for a pair of calipers. This place also sells rebuild kits http://biggred.co.uk/catalogue.php Toyota part numbers. http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/1813/ye5r.jpg http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/6721/k3lw.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Roger NE Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 I would imagine they will be seized solid ! So it's not just a question of greasing them, it's getting them freed up that is usually quite a difficult job And in my experience it's always the TOP slider that seizes up, not the lower one. Personally, even when they've been seized up, I've never had any perished or split rubber seals (they're like miniature boots on steering racks or driveshafts) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 The sliders will be seized, if you want I can free them and ream out the carrier, and grease with the correct high temperature grease. Should the caliper piston itself be seizing I can provide seal kits, or stainless steel replacement caliper pistons, or do a caliper rebuild. I am as far away as your nearest post office Check the heat han't cracked the disc. It'll need new pads. I can supp....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BazzaAlpine Posted September 11, 2013 Author Share Posted September 11, 2013 Lol thanks for that Chris. I had already changed the pads at the weekend and the sliders / piston were by no mean seized. The top slider was a lot harder to move than the bottom one though. I have some high temp grease so will take the slider out and give it a clean up / regrease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Roger NE Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 Wrap some Emery paper round a suitable size rod and clean out the hole that the top pin slides in and out of to remove the rust build up that's making it tight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 If the pins are truly free in the caliper carrier they should slide with near zero effort. The only friction would be from the anti rattle rubber O rings on one or both pins, depending if they are front or rear sliders. Personally I remove those and bin them. To be honest sliding calipers are a bit of an abortion at best, but they are cheap to make and we are stuck with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 (edited) I'd personally bin the 20 yr old j specs and get a nice uk set up on there, no sliding calipers to worry about then Edited September 11, 2013 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BazzaAlpine Posted September 11, 2013 Author Share Posted September 11, 2013 Good couple of tips there. Dnk, believe me, if I could afford to upgrade the brakes I would but this car has already cost me a fortune and that's just replacing with like for like (Engine, suspension, etc etc (including replacing the old brakes that were seizing with some better conditioned ones)). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SupraP-Z Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 I had a very similar noise coming from my passenger side front wheel...the most annoying high pitched whirling sound and squeal as you move...almost like the brakes are on all the time. Had those symptoms for absolutely aggggges, a good 4 months or so. Tried driving slow, fast, brake short and sharp, harsh, nice and soft, nothing made a difference. My ex sat in my car for two mins....and the noise went away, and has never come back! the weirdest thing ever. Dont know what it was in the end, havent had the wheels off to check. But sticky caliper or sliding pin is most likely the cause as mentioned above! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted September 15, 2013 Share Posted September 15, 2013 I think rather than leaving something like this for 4 months a better option would be to get it into a decent garage and get it checked. It could be something silly or could be something very serious. Just because the noise has gone i'd still be getting it looked at if i couldn't do it myself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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