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Building my spare engine into a fully built 1JZ race / track monster.


little num

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As most know I currently run a 1JZ single and do track days and Nurburgring for fun.

I have rebuilt my current engine with ACL bearings and ARP studs thought out but as I have a spare 1JZ and lots of spare money I've decided to build another engine but this time with updated internals.

 

I've just got myself some CP forged pistons with Tomei H rods and just ordered a main and head set of ARP studs.

Also thinking of going with ACL race bearings or Clevite bearings not sure what choose, what have others used and what's your experience with either.

 

Here are some pics to start with but I will update with more pics each time I do something to talk about.

 

I'm going to do some head work also and see what I can get away with as I'm going to go 1mm oversized exhaust valves also with upgraded cams and valve springs.

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Edited by little num (see edit history)
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Sorry yes the pistons are 86.5 so getting the block bored out this week, ive been wire brushing the block today to get it ready for painting.

My friends own a engine reconditioning company so all the work im having done is mates rate which means FREE lol, the block once bored will be honed then top skimmed to bring it back straight.

 

I have use of all there tools so the hot wash will be very busy the next few days and there skimming machine will be cleaned with new diamond cutter ready for the head.

As for valves im doing both inlet and exhaust but its the exhaust that really need doing as the inlets are massive compared to the exhaust valves and its more important to get the old gas's out.

 

My mates company is called Bromsgrove engine services and here is what they do https://www.google.co.uk/maps?layer=c&z=17&sll=52.317426999999995,-2.060917&cid=-6473556177176677634&panoid=p7XJ8h3MOXkAAAAGOi0arg&cbp=13,96.29643347209998,,0,0&q=bes+engine&sa=X&ei=pXwjUpvMDsaShgeps4DQCg&ved=0CJ0BEKAfMA0

Edited by little num (see edit history)
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Make sure you measure each piston and number them. Then bore per cylinder, there will be some size difference between pistons.

 

Good advice thanks, ive weighed each piston and they were only .3 of a gram from each other but all rods - pistons - new crank - clutch flywheel - front pully with be fully balanced

Ordring my bearings tomorrow, ive decided to go with ACL race bearings as that's what I have now and have been good.

My current engine will be stripped down once swapped over to see if there is any wear on the rings - bearings ect.

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Thought I'd update it a little as I have had some new parts arrive.

I've wire brushed all the block to get all the loose rust and dirt off and hot washed it 4 times ready for boring then once it's been bored and ready to build I'm going to paint it black.

 

Here are pics of new parts and block looking clean.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just a quick update as ive been busy with other things so not had a lot of time on this, but here are a few pictures of the progress so far.

 

Head I have drilled the old M10 - 1.25 thread out so I can replace with WURTH inserts and change them to M10 - 1.5 a more stronger and reliable design as the studs generally pull the thread out the head as the thread is so fine.

 

Crank has been polished and all pistons - rods - crank has been fully balanced to ensure a smooth running of the engine.

 

Block has been rebored 0.5 oversized due to pistons being 86.5 and then had a very light skim across the top of the block to ensure a nice clean and flat surface to give the gasket the best chance to seal, ive also ordered a full set of valve springs that are uprated to 180 lb pressure.

 

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