Purity14 Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 Previous history of overheating.. Stopped using the car as i have others and im just getting round to fixing it.. So far : Okay so radiator replaced (original was fubar) and new rad cap. Compression test done and all figures are good. Filled radiator with water for now to identify if problem still exists. Ran the engine whilst continuing to fill radiator and the obvious bubbles appear and i keep filling.. Until full.. Bottom pipe from radiator takes a while to get hot but does get hot eventually.. Top hose is hot quite quickly. Temp gauge is halfway normal. Hot air in the car from matrix. No water on the floor (core plugs) Radiator cap still isn't fitted as i am trying to get air out still.. Suddenly water erupts high out of the radiator continually and doesn't seem to stop until i turn the engine off.. I put the rad cap on and started the car and it idled fine at normal temp.. I took the cap off from a distance after i turned off the car but still hot.. (I did it from a distance to be safe.. And it flew up in the air about 5 feet and i caught it. The radiator took another litre of water, must have been more air.. Just concerned about the water continually spewing up into the air repeatedly, like at least 6 inches into the air. More bleeding required? Or is it something else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh42 Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 (edited) There's no reason to have the cap off while bleeding mate, it's a self bleeding system and the cap will vent the air pressure. I'd check all the coolant hoses for splits if I were you. Especially the one at the back by the bulkhead! Edited August 30, 2013 by Josh42 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purity14 Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 Sorry mate but afaik the 'radiator cap off park uphill and idling over' is a well known supra trick to remove air from the system.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh42 Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 Having done a coolant flush/Cambelt and water pump change on mine twice now, neither time did I park up hill or have the cap off. I've had no issues with my car since refilling it and I drive mine every day in traffic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Roger NE Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 (edited) Yes that is the best way to bleed the air out (even better if you keep squeezing the heater hose to pump the air out of the Heater Matrix - that's where it tends to gather) HOWEVER . . . I regret to say that reapeatedly getting a load of bubbles out the top of the radiator (with the cap off) once it has fully warmed up is nearly always an indication that your Head Gasket has blown - even more so if you're getting torrents of water ! How do I know this? I'm a Mk3 Supra owner (on here because I'm about to fit a Mk4 engine in my car) . . . and the Mk3 Engines (7M-GE or GTE) blow head gaskets all the time ! I know it's pretty rare on the 2JZ engine (which is why I'm fitting one) . . . but I would bet money on that being your problem Sorry mate Edited August 30, 2013 by Roger NE (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 Once the stat has opened and the heaters blowing nice and hot you should put the rad cap back on and fill the expansion tank to the max line. Then take it for a run keeping an eye the temp gauge and if alls well it should sit at normal temp, then turn it off and leave to cool down, taking the cap off while its hot is a no no as it'll be under pressure thus erupting out the rad like it did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Roger NE Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 But it WOULDN'T start spurting out like that unless his Head Gasket had failed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 (edited) Check the position of your top hose? The N/A top hose is easy to fit with the wonk in it to be higher than the water level in the rad. In this instance, the water you put in the rad can only feed the engine via the bottom hose and through the small bleed hole in the thermostat. Running the engine during this inefficient fill, the stat will get hot and open letting water rush in and contact the uncooled head resulting with VOLCANO ! Edited August 31, 2013 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purity14 Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 The car doesn't have an mot at the moment and I'm not insured on it, so i cant take it for a drive. Im going to do a sniff test next week. If its ok ill mot and see how it goes.. If the h/g has gone ill just ask keron for a engine swap, this engine has done 250k, but i think that the original time it overheated it must have blown the hg, the temp gauge had only just reached the top before i turned it off, so i was hoping for the best.. Oh well. Hopefully if it passes an mot with a blown head gasket i can drive it halfway to kerons and then green flag the remainder of the way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wile e coyote Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 As David has said We had same problem with supra fluff recently and her dad kept saying it was head gasket So we just kept bleading it with it facing up hill Took a while but she recently drove from Cornwall to the 20th meet and back with no problems I had a mk3 which the head gasket went and they were prone to it but the mkiv seems to be fine and rare Just keep at it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wile e coyote Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 Is there gunk creamy deposit in oil cap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purity14 Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 No gunk on any caps or the dipstick.. The only sure way is a sniff test i think.. :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 Are you allergic to answering to the answer you requested? Post a pic of your top hose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purity14 Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 Sorry David, i did check.. I wasn't ignoring you or indeed allergic to answering.. Ill go take a pic right now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purity14 Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 (edited) That aftermarket radiator has the top hose tail almost above the level of the bottom of the filler neck, I reckon if you reposition the hose about 20 degrees clockwise, it could cure it. This can be checked by filling it cold as much as it takes, then push the hose lower in the middle, if the water level drops, the above will fix it unless you've caused further damage with heat expansion and sudden contraction. Edited August 30, 2013 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Havard Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 Have you FUBARRED my old car? Have you bled the system from the connection I installed on the top hose? I had a couple of issues with air locks but that fitting sorted them all. I hope it isn't the HG but you have done some serious mileage in that car since I handed you the keys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purity14 Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 Twisted it as described.. I see what you mean though. Water doesnt go down when squeezing the bottom pipe.. Still stays at the neck of radiator.. Gonna let it warm up again now though and see.. If the compression of the engine was going into the water wouldnt it be volcanic out of an uncapped radiator all the time, even when cold? Anyway ill report back in a sec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 I've drained the water out of mine more times than I can remember and the only time I had a refill problem was as described above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purity14 Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 Up to temp.. No volcanics! Sat in the car pinched the overflow and filled to the brim.. Warm air in car and I'm watching the radiator water just wobbling at the neck of the radiator. Thank you David, i think it was the symptoms you first described! So Havard, she seems to be working fine.. Im wanting it as a daily again, so next goal is a 333k then 500k It wouldn't be the same on a different engine but who knows! If it holds and doesn't overheat, polyurethane front lip and new alloys and the few spots of rust and little dents fixed with a full detail.. Hopefully that will incentivise this car to behave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Roger NE Posted August 31, 2013 Share Posted August 31, 2013 (edited) If the compression of the engine was going into the water wouldnt it be volcanic out of an uncapped radiator all the time, even when cold? No . . . because it's only when everything has fully expanded that the Head Gasket starts leaking. And in fact it won't ALWAYS do this when it reaches temperature . . you may find it only starts leaking again after you've been for a fast drive and got the engine really hot, and then sat in traffic (with no air flow). The problem is that you rarely get a sudden TOTAL Head Gasket failure, it happens gradually. And when a Head Gasket BEGINS leaking it is nearly always intermittent . . . so people see the classic symptoms, but because doesn't do it next time they test it, they kid themselves that the engine's OK. But what you normally find is this starts happening more and more frequently, until you eventually have catastropic HG failure, which can permanently damage the engine. (Apart from Head warpage, once coolant gets into the Oil you normally get big end bearing failure, certainly on the 7M engines) I'm sorry if I'm full of Gloom and Doom, but I have seen this SO often on the Mk3 engines ! (My head gasket has just started to fail again, which is why I'm ditching my 7M and fitting a 2JZ) My advice is get a sniffer check done. This tests whether exhaust gasses have got in the coolant - if they HAVE, the only way they're there is due to Head Gasket failure. Edited August 31, 2013 by Roger NE (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted August 31, 2013 Share Posted August 31, 2013 You're welcome. Because many Supra owners appear to have forgotten that gravity doesn't let water run uphill this issue comes around on a regular basis, so for the benefit of others I've labelled up the thread/solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wile e coyote Posted August 31, 2013 Share Posted August 31, 2013 As David said They can be a pain to bleed Glad it's fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted August 31, 2013 Share Posted August 31, 2013 But it WOULDN'T start spurting out like that unless his Head Gasket had failed It would because without the cap on its not pressurising so if done for long enough the water will boil just like it does in a kettle and it only has 1 place to come out which is the rad neck. If the caps on it wont boil as long as the system isn't full of air but take the cap off in this situation and it will launch out the rad neck because its now under pressure at around 1.1 bar depending what pressure rated cap your using. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest aspire Posted August 31, 2013 Share Posted August 31, 2013 same as josh42, when we emptied my coolant and fitted temp sender in between top rad hose i filled up with toyota red started car with read cap on, on level ground, let warm up and topped up if needed, no problems at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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