Slutters Posted August 26, 2013 Author Share Posted August 26, 2013 I love your updates , cos I like pictures and to the point info great threads as always from you adam Cheers mate! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBDevelopments Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 coming together nicely mate. with the eagle rods, well with any rod you should always measure the the pin and clearance of the little end bush. I have found sometimes the eagles come a little rough but all conrods regardless of manufacturer should be spec'd for the job upon installation. every rod i install has a light run on the rod hone machine, weather it just to get it perfect or to increase a clearance. People don't see this as a part that needs doing, but should be treated just like the cylinder clearances, Would you install a piston without measuring it We do this on all rod before installation also double check the balance. on the ones I've built I go down to 1/3rd of a gram tolerance on the full piston,rod,bearing weight. With the power of them you should be fine. Again people say there cheap in the 3sgte world opting for pauter over them, but at 3 times the price pauter can be a little overpriced for the needs. Again i know its not really reliant but I used Eagle conrods on our 3sgte drag engine when I was doing the 1/4mile world record attempt. This engine made 955bhp at 2.7bar of boost and 9000rpm redline on a 4 cylinder 2.0ltr engine. If i remember correctly in the 2-3 years of its development starting at 600bhp and going upwards the conrods where the only thing that didn't give us any grief, breakages or anything and were the same conrods from when we started to when we finished. All that needed to be done was the occasional little end swap out because of wear between rebuilds. so this should be testiment to there strength and i believe the 2jz and 3s conrods are extremely close if not identical. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBDevelopments Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 did you have the block skimmed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slutters Posted August 27, 2013 Author Share Posted August 27, 2013 coming together nicely mate. with the eagle rods, well with any rod you should always measure the the pin and clearance of the little end bush. I have found sometimes the eagles come a little rough but all conrods regardless of manufacturer should be spec'd for the job upon installation. every rod i install has a light run on the rod hone machine, weather it just to get it perfect or to increase a clearance. People don't see this as a part that needs doing, but should be treated just like the cylinder clearances, Would you install a piston without measuring it We do this on all rod before installation also double check the balance. on the ones I've built I go down to 1/3rd of a gram tolerance on the full piston,rod,bearing weight. With the power of them you should be fine. Again people say there cheap in the 3sgte world opting for pauter over them, but at 3 times the price pauter can be a little overpriced for the needs. Again i know its not really reliant but I used Eagle conrods on our 3sgte drag engine when I was doing the 1/4mile world record attempt. This engine made 955bhp at 2.7bar of boost and 9000rpm redline on a 4 cylinder 2.0ltr engine. If i remember correctly in the 2-3 years of its development starting at 600bhp and going upwards the conrods where the only thing that didn't give us any grief, breakages or anything and were the same conrods from when we started to when we finished. All that needed to be done was the occasional little end swap out because of wear between rebuilds. so this should be testiment to there strength and i believe the 2jz and 3s conrods are extremely close if not identical. Tim Wow! 2.7Bar and 9k RPM! Mental! I have a question for you Tim, with regards to the piston pins, how exactly do they get lubrication? I know the stock rods have an oil passage that goes through the rod, however these new Eagles don't. They have a drilling either side of the little end so I imagine its splash feed via the under piston jet's? Also with regard to the ARP's rod bolts, I had to install them 3 times, first to seat the bearings, 2nd to Plasti gauge, and last time to fit them, I did measure a 0.01mm difference between stage 1 and 2 but would you consider replacing? Thanks Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBDevelopments Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 lol it was for the world drag record so had to be a bit pokey lol Yes the bigend bearings take alot of force and are also alot of movement with the crank rotation inside so need that high pressure oil feed, the little end takes relatively small movement as its only basically rocking back and forth, so only a small amount of lubrication is needed. This is provided by as you say the small holes on the side which will get fed by the oil squirters in the block and general windage of the oil in the crank case. Rod bolts will be ok as they've not had any heat cycles going through them. You'll probably find the 0.01mm is just an error in measuring because there still virgin in terms of use and strain. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slutters Posted August 27, 2013 Author Share Posted August 27, 2013 lol it was for the world drag record so had to be a bit pokey lol Yes the bigend bearings take alot of force and are also alot of movement with the crank rotation inside so need that high pressure oil feed, the little end takes relatively small movement as its only basically rocking back and forth, so only a small amount of lubrication is needed. This is provided by as you say the small holes on the side which will get fed by the oil squirters in the block and general windage of the oil in the crank case. Rod bolts will be ok as they've not had any heat cycles going through them. You'll probably find the 0.01mm is just an error in measuring because there still virgin in terms of use and strain. Tim Thanks Tim, I did think it was measuring error to be honest. Just waiting for the missing set of piston locks to arrive then I can get the head back on! Slightly worried about all these FMS leaks I am reading about but I am thinking with a brand new pump if should be fine. It's hard to combat against issues when no one knows 100% what causes them! - - - Updated - - - Oh, Tim do you have an engine dyno? How much for a run in cycle? Thanks Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBDevelopments Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 FMS? is that front main seal? sorry its a supra terminology yeah i totally understand mate. No i like to run engines in the old fashioned way, especially on a road going car as i find dyno break ins don't give great leak down and longevity for road going applications. Race that are regularly stripped down doesn't really matter as baptism of fire i find is best lol Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slutters Posted August 27, 2013 Author Share Posted August 27, 2013 FMS? is that front main seal? sorry its a supra terminology yeah i totally understand mate. No i like to run engines in the old fashioned way, especially on a road going car as i find dyno break ins don't give great leak down and longevity for road going applications. Race that are regularly stripped down doesn't really matter as baptism of fire i find is best lol Tim Ahh, you go with that school of thought? I must admit I was thinking of leaving the boost at say 5PSI to run it in then up it. I guess by running it in hard at least you know sooner rather than later if it's going to pop... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBDevelopments Posted August 28, 2013 Share Posted August 28, 2013 its more confienece with the race engines. Prime example that drag car i was doing, why spend 1000miles running it in, when its going to get rebuilt after 10miles of drag strip action. But for longevity you want to break everything in gradually. But don't be to kind of you glaze the bores. Its a catch22 of the bearings want to be bedding in nicely and gentle where the piston rings want a bit of force to make them bed in correctly. This is why when i first fire an engine up i hold the revs at 3k for around 20-30mins while on the ramp. Just to let everything bed in nicely, then go out and do a drive, under 3000rpm. if you get a little bit of boost no worries as long as its not alot. 50 miles drop the oil. this is mainly because anything missed in cleaning process (shouldn't be any) and any fine metal particles from parts bedding in with be the most extensive in the first 50 miles Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slutters Posted September 23, 2013 Author Share Posted September 23, 2013 Right guys big update! Been bit busy so struggling but nearly there now. So unpacked my new oil pump and fitted the new seal: Masked up and painted Swapping parts over from the old. Nice and clean! To prevent startup wear I packed the pump with assembly lube. Should keep it all good till it fires. Sealer on and fitted up Cleaned and fitted my sensors Unwapped my refurbished head, 3 angle valve seats, new stem seals, titanium retainers and stronger single valve springs. All Brian Crower stuff. checking valve clearances, just to be safe. Cams removed and head deep cleaned Chambers checked and cleaned Old water feed to throttle body removed and tapped for blank bolt Head recleaned and masked Painting time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slutters Posted September 23, 2013 Author Share Posted September 23, 2013 Next up fitted my new Whifbitz welded crank pulley! Also fitted my water neck rotation plate Along with new OEM stat and water neck Fitted the new OEM water pump also Rotation plate on Next up painted the upper sump housing. Cleaned and masked up. Bottom end now complete! Head on next, ARP’s going in Threadlocked Last clean of the head And shes on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slutters Posted September 23, 2013 Author Share Posted September 23, 2013 Stripped and cleaned all the lifters and assembly lube added. Fitted new rear seal Tourqed up Fitted upper and lower sump New super magnetic sump plug next to the old one to catch any nasty’s Baffle and strainer And bottom end is finished! Cams fitted, hooks tempory added to lift engine to fit rear main seal… New seals Cams tourqed in Cam back plate New Whifbitz billet tensioner, great bit of kit! Well worth the money for that extra safety! Also brought a new Toyota bearing and arm just for the bearing Stripped the new OEM one down, OEM on the left, Whifbitz on the right Whifbitz assembled and looking good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slutters Posted September 23, 2013 Author Share Posted September 23, 2013 Fitted like OEM, great bit of kit Paul Also fitted my Garage Whifbitz pulleys, another great bit of kit Paul. New tensioner and Gates racing belt. Covers cleaned with new bolts and fitted Made a start fitting the lower inlet. Thick Thermal Insulated gaskets to stop heat soak There were are guys nearly there now! More to come soon! Thanks for reading Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazuk Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 Nice work mate keep it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 How did you remove the water feed pipe on the head. Did you drill it out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luxluc Posted September 24, 2013 Share Posted September 24, 2013 Impressive work mate. WOW. I changed my OEM thermostat for a TRD one, as some say it's a must for big power engines. Just to throw up some ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slutters Posted September 24, 2013 Author Share Posted September 24, 2013 How did you remove the water feed pipe on the head. Did you drill it out? Hi mate, no just use a pair of mole grips and twist it out, its only glued in place. Impressive work mate. WOW. I changed my OEM thermostat for a TRD one, as some say it's a must for big power engines. Just to throw up some ideas. Thanks mate, I did think about it but I read a post by Chris Wilson saying you need a very good reason to step away from the stock one so I stuck with it.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted September 24, 2013 Share Posted September 24, 2013 The big question on my lips is , who are you going to let map it this time? , i would hate to see recurrance of what happened last time , after so much great work you have put in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slutters Posted September 24, 2013 Author Share Posted September 24, 2013 The big question on my lips is , who are you going to let map it this time? , i would hate to see recurrance of what happened last time , after so much great work you have put in Sam from TDI South with out a doubt. He maps race cars for Lemans etc and I really trust him. Plus the dyno setup is like nothing I have ever seen anywhere before. Also thinking of taking it there to be run in, they have designed a dyno run in program that they have used over a decade with no failures so far... Only thing I am considering is switching ECU's. Depending on what I can get for mine that is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted September 24, 2013 Share Posted September 24, 2013 Sam from TDI South with out a doubt. He maps race cars for Lemans etc and I really trust him. Plus the dyno setup is like nothing I have ever seen anywhere before. Also thinking of taking it there to be run in, they have designed a dyno run in program that they have used over a decade with no failures so far... Only thing I am considering is switching ECU's. Depending on what I can get for mine that is. yep i would have to agree he mapped mine also, but i only have a fic piggy back so not quite so hard but great guys all round , they did a complete check of my car before they even would take it out,commented on my screamer being close to the autobox oil lines, re routed some vac pipes for me exellent service i must say good choice !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamesy Posted September 24, 2013 Share Posted September 24, 2013 nice work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted September 24, 2013 Share Posted September 24, 2013 Nice work So, whats the deal with rotating the water neck... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markssupra Posted September 24, 2013 Share Posted September 24, 2013 Superb build, attention to the small details is a must when building an engine. Brilliant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MACA33 Posted September 26, 2013 Share Posted September 26, 2013 Love looking at all the little detail steps, nice one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slutters Posted October 6, 2013 Author Share Posted October 6, 2013 Hi guys! Last update from me on this, its now finished! Will chuck a few updates on after fitting etc. Got my injectors back from flow testing, needed a new one as the atomization was not great. Numbered all the injectors and fitted them to the rail. Fitted to the lower inlet Removed the tape, you can see the port job on the lower runner Got my covers back from being bling’ed! Drilled and tapped to 1/2NPT then fitted the 10AN adapters And fitted! Inlet manifold fitted New polished water neck vs the old one… Fitted that Dipstick tube and inlet support painted and fitted Shaved the tensioner Fitted that on I am going with an aftermarket oil cooler, I didn’t want to run the stock one again as I was worried about loading the water system with heat. New bolt adapter from garage whifbitz Oil setup fitted Loom on and alt fitted! Its all done! Thanks for reading guys, next update in a week or so! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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