Slutter's 800HP Forged Motor Build! (Update Page 4! 6/10/13)

[Slutters]

Hi guys!

 

I have a project thread on the go but wanted to add this as a separate thread as it might be useful!

 

Anyway, first a big thanks to Sam Borgman from TDI South, the man is a fountain of knowledge and a thoroughly genuine and honest guy.

 

Also TLicense and his thread:

 

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?171026-TLicense-Engine-Build

 

 

So, after a spot of crap mapping by a retard my engine was reduced to:

 

 

 

 

 

So a plan was hatched i decided i wanted 800HHP, as i saw a video about the Titan Supra and they said it was an idea street figure and many users on here have said the same.

 

I wanted to do all the build myself, the only bits i haven't done are the machining, i spoke to loads of people and it was a real struggle to find someone who could get it EXACTLY how i wanted it, and not adding 0.10mm 'for safety'

 

In the end i went with a company in Soham called Ivor Searle and despite the manager being a grumpy sod it was exactly what i asked for, i think i offended him when i got out my dial bore gauge, calipers, Micrometer and feeler gauges to check his work. Thing is, the engine is only as good as the machine work!

 

I got them to:

 

* Machine and hone out bore's to exactly - Pistons size + 0.059mm or 59 Microns - Pistons are numbered

 

* Hone to be started with 200 and then platue it off with a 380

 

* Dip/Clean Block

 

* Dip/Clean Cylinder head

 

* Check head face and skim if required

 

* 3 Angle Valve seats and valves and lap (Spare valves in box)

 

* Install Valve Stem seals, Titanium retainers and upgrade springs from box

 

* Install cams and adjust clearances (Additional shims in box or cut valves)

 

* Inlet clearance - Minimum 0.254mm - 0.3050mm

 

* Exhaust Cleaner - Minimum 0.3048 - 0.3556mm

 

 

 

That little lot was £712 which was not too bad in my opinion.

 

Anyway this is the engine spec:

 

OEM oil pump

 

Top water neck

 

Full OEM Engine gasket kit

 

Crankshaft Timing Gear

 

ACL Race Rod Bearings

 

ACL Race Main Bearings

 

ACL Race Thrust Washer Set

 

Eagle Rods

 

Wiseco Forged 86.5mm Pistons

 

ARP Mains

 

ARP Heads

 

That was £2300 ish with a few other bits also not in the list.

 

So with that in mind, lets start:

 

Old engine stripped:

 

 

Two weeks later:

 

 

 

 

 

 

So i checked the bore sizes, overlarity and squarness and all was ok.

 

Next up a lick of paint

 

 

 

 

 

And primer'ed

 

 

 

Forgot to take any of the color going on, but i chose a color that add's 20HP Red....

 

Anyway, next up fitting the core plugs, you use a small amount of thread lock/sealer while driving them in:

Edited October 6, 2013 by Slutters (see edit history)

[Slutters]

 

 

 

Sorting out the bearings, (ACL rods and thrust's were put of stock)

 

 

New tool i got for the job!

 

 

Cleaned out the oil squirters:

 

 

Added some Redline Assembly lube to the bases (It looks like i put thread lock on them from the pic! but rest assured thats just for the bolts that hold them on)

 

 

Fitted:

 

 

Next up the ARP mains:

 

 

And threadlocked in, also fitted the ACL Race uppers and thrusts:

 

 

Cleaned up the main caps

 

 

And cleaned the crank

 

 

Plasti-gauge strips in to check oil clearnces:

 

 

Redline assembly lube and ARP Molly grease

 

[Slutters]

Crank bolted in and oil clearances checked:

 

 

All the clearances were 0.023-0.025mm:

 

 

All bolted back together after adding assembly lube and torqued up for the last time, while i was there i checked the crank nose movement:

 

 

 

Was 0.100mm so all ok

 

Next update we have these!

 

[TheTurtleshead]

Did you get it line bored if you're fitting uprated main studs mate?

[Slutters]

Did you get it line bored if you're fitting uprated main studs mate?

 

No mate, checked the Oval'arity with the Platic-gauge and it was the same. Laid it on straight over the pin.

[FOSTA]

Awesome work fella!

[Josh]

Fabulous!

[JasonR24]

Awesome build mate, gutted about the crap mapper! You should have said you were down right near me mate!

[mellonman]

Nice work as always glad that your sticking at it, will be a great build and awesome car

[DaveR]

Love it!

[Noz]

The duct king gets to work yet again. 800hp will be a lot easier mate using engineering knowledge on this one!

[thetrashcanman]

Nice one dude, looking good so far, best of luck

[Rob_Mitchell]

Nice build!

[Luxluc]

Nice work.

[markssupra]

Nice build, wont be long until I start on mine. Thats a fine looking wrench you have there!

[TBDevelopments]

No mate, checked the Oval'arity with the Platic-gauge and it was the same. Laid it on straight over the pin.

 

you won't need to. only thing I find the uprated studs do is cause some tiny ovality in the bottom of the block, same goes for the head studs. One that really does oval out the journal hole is if you fit ARP bolts to the conrods. You really do need to re-size them once that's done to make them perfect again.

 

When I've built engines in the past I use a head torque block when boring and honing to simulate head stud block distortion, also torque in all the mains to simulate the bottom distortion. Something else we've recently started doing on engines is pass 82degree coolant around the water ways while its being bored and honed to simulate any expansion when its upto temperature.

 

You'll be amazed how much distortion is actually caused by this, but doing these steps ensures its perfect when its in operation and oval on the table. Instead of the relaxed bored method that Toyota did from the factory when its perfect on the table and slightly oval and distorted when in operation.

 

I do however find platue hone is great for a racecar with minimal running in period but I prefer to leave the peaks on the hone marks which helps bed the piston rings in, I find this gives much better longevity and better sealing for a road going engine that will need to see alot of miles.

 

Tim

[Slutters]

you won't need to. only thing I find the uprated studs do is cause some tiny ovality in the bottom of the block, same goes for the head studs. One that really does oval out the journal hole is if you fit ARP bolts to the conrods. You really do need to re-size them once that's done to make them perfect again.

 

When I've built engines in the past I use a head torque block when boring and honing to simulate head stud block distortion, also torque in all the mains to simulate the bottom distortion. Something else we've recently started doing on engines is pass 82degree coolant around the water ways while its being bored and honed to simulate any expansion when its upto temperature.

 

You'll be amazed how much distortion is actually caused by this, but doing these steps ensures its perfect when its in operation and oval on the table. Instead of the relaxed bored method that Toyota did from the factory when its perfect on the table and slightly oval and distorted when in operation.

 

I do however find platue hone is great for a racecar with minimal running in period but I prefer to leave the peaks on the hone marks which helps bed the piston rings in, I find this gives much better longevity and better sealing for a road going engine that will need to see alot of miles.

 

Tim

 

Cheers Tim

 

The Rods have been line bored for the ARP's, but I will check them anyway.

 

I did read about the torque plates, however what about the gearbox? It's a massive weight on one end of the engine and must be causing much more distortion than the head studs for example?

[TBDevelopments]

the thing with the gearbox is its well supported, most of the bolts for it are a far enough away from the cylinders not to cause an issue and the few that are near the top aren't done to the same torque and pulling force as the head studs so don't really have an effect.

 

Its mainly down to the torque of the head studs and mains pulling from the base of the stud threads and this distorts it very slightly. When using a torque block you can actually measure it happening when you torque up the nuts. Although saying that its not enough to effect a well running engine as Toyota deemed it OK and withing specs. But when your doing a race engine why not get it the best you possibly can. I've built a good range of the Toyota engine blocks now and have torque plates for most of them. Same for coolant passage way blocks to allow me to pass the hot coolant around the block when its being bored and measured.

 

Tim

[supra steveo]

Good stuff, subscribed

[Slutters]

the thing with the gearbox is its well supported, most of the bolts for it are a far enough away from the cylinders not to cause an issue and the few that are near the top aren't done to the same torque and pulling force as the head studs so don't really have an effect.

 

Its mainly down to the torque of the head studs and mains pulling from the base of the stud threads and this distorts it very slightly. When using a torque block you can actually measure it happening when you torque up the nuts. Although saying that its not enough to effect a well running engine as Toyota deemed it OK and withing specs. But when your doing a race engine why not get it the best you possibly can. I've built a good range of the Toyota engine blocks now and have torque plates for most of them. Same for coolant passage way blocks to allow me to pass the hot coolant around the block when its being bored and measured.

 

Tim

 

Sounds like a good rig there mate! Would have got you to do the bore work had I known. Takes a long time to find people to trust though, some machine shops like to add 0.10 for 'safety'

[TBDevelopments]

i've done a few lol

 

See to do this properly you should really be doing as you've had done here. Where each piston is individually measured, clearance rate added and then the bores done to that size. so pistons are numbered and then goes into that cylinder.

 

Some people don't even have a clue though, I've had people boring and honing engines for pistons that haven't even arrived yet still baffles me how they can get away with that just going from a 86,5mm piston size. They don't know clearance or anything. But as the saying goes, "some people can and some people say they can" lol

 

Tim

[Slutters]

Hi guys

 

Update time!

 

So I cracked open the box on the rods today, I went with the 3/8” ARP2000 bolts so they should be good for plenty of power. Now I know the eagle’s are cheap and here’s why:

 

 

 

Hard to see in the pics but the small end where the gudjon pin slides through has been bored but not finished. The cross hatch is spot on, there is just a few small burs where the rods have not been hand finished. These burs cause the pin to feel tight.

 

So I label and stripped the rods:

 

 

You can see the high spots here:

 

 

Then with some 1000 grit wet and dry you just want to take the edge off, it is barely 2 or 3 rubs but it is enough to make the pin slide in and not catch on the burs. Do not touch the inner bush, just the very outside edge. If you did not do this you could risk the pin sezing in the rod as it heats up.

 

 

 

After that give it a good clean, a REALLY good clean and then your ready to fit the pistons! Make sure you work out the direction of the pistons, the bigger cut outs are for the inlet.

 

 

Next up fit 1 pin lock

 

 

Then a good helping of assembly lube

 

 

Then fit the rod, should be a nice push fit.

 

 

Fit the second clip

 

 

And done!

 

 

Repeat for all 6! (I however had a pack of clips missing so will have to wait till they arrive)

 

 

You also need to set the ring gap directions now.

 

Just a quick random pic, I wanted to check out the ovalrity of the ARP Mains and I am glad to say there was none, it was consistent around the pin.

 

 

 

Anyway, pistons are now ready to fit! (Bar 1)

 

 

I had left the sealing grease on the bores to stop any corrosion, I removed it at the last minute to avoid any corrosion. (Notice No2 bore still has the coating)

 

[Slutters]

Hatching:

 

 

Installing the rod bearings:

 

 

And pistons all fitted!

 

 

 

Plastiguage’d the rods, all were 0.50MM

 

 

And checked rod thrust clearance which was 0.34mm

 

 

Rods all connected and tourqed! 43ft’lbs

 

 

Next up fitting the oil pump:

 

Brand new from Toyota

 

 

Pressed the seal in (Don’t go to deep, should be level with the housing)

 

Also fitted my turbo feed blank, Turbo feed and water tap

 

 

That’s it for today folks!

 

[Kaan W]

Some good progress there mate, will be an awesome machine when finished.

[mellonman]

I love your updates , cos I like pictures and to the point info great threads as always from you adam