Guest aspire Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 hi guys. been told to post this here, i have an NA auto, last year trader on here converted it to a W58 full conversion. fitted the A10B diff also. no problems car ran lovely, very happy. spoke to swampy and decided to go for the R154 CONVERSION. found this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-R154-5speed-gearbox-manual-convertion-1jz-gte-chaser-soarer-aristo-supra-/251302626846?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&nma=true&si=VvC0vH%252B5lbpPD%252B0LZldCrCgmeoc%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc so purchased at a new price as this sale fell through. conversion arrived all seemed good spoke to swampy, it was a good deal..... NOW! spent the day yesterday fitting it with marco79, all seemed to go ok. untill, we connected the prop or tried to as it wouldnt fit! yes we used the front part from the R154 and the rear section of the w58, but still to long, after much swearing and hitting, it went in but then the wheels locked up as was just to much interfearnance with the diff. now 11,00pm last night no lights raining and car was in limbo...... we stripped prop down under moonlight, and car was able to roll again.....have spoke to garage that supplied the conversion, let them have car and they will put right at my cost!! has anyone any advice on this as to where we go from here? dr jekyll is on board now so hope we can put this right as all in all it was an expensive exercise now.... should be a straight swap but no..... even the gearstick craddle seems close to the dash panel (fire wall) but as we cant drive hard to know for sure..... any help or advice please guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 Sorry I can't be of much help but I was watching that same conversion on eBay for mine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 Mate, I told you that the prop in a kit supplied from a Chaser would need shortening. I fitted the exact same type of kit to my car, the prop was modified at a local specialists. The gear stick does tend to sit closer to the dash alright but on mine, with no interior panels to speak of, it isn't a problem. - - - Updated - - - Mate, I told you that the prop in a kit supplied from a Chaser would need shortening. I fitted the exact same type of kit to my car, the prop was modified at a local specialists. The gear stick does tend to sit closer to the dash alright but on mine, with no interior panels to speak of, it isn't a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest aspire Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 (edited) Mate, I told you that the prop in a kit supplied from a Chaser would need shortening. I fitted the exact same type of kit to my car, the prop was modified at a local specialists. The gear stick does tend to sit closer to the dash alright but on mine, with no interior panels to speak of, it isn't a problem. - - - Updated - - - Mate, I told you that the prop in a kit supplied from a Chaser would need shortening. I fitted the exact same type of kit to my car, the prop was modified at a local specialists. The gear stick does tend to sit closer to the dash alright but on mine, with no interior panels to speak of, it isn't a problem. ok! so what part do i need to bolt up with my rear? do i need a mk3 front section???? been down the workshop today, we fettled and fiddled, the car is now operational, but not exastly 100% if any member can add to this thread will be great. there is a noise which we located to the fly wheel, when clutch depressed it dissapears,,, would the friction plate need to bed in on flywheel? its all second hand. but when the single project starts will be an uprated clutch and flywheel going in however the car drove nice, gearbox is smooth and selects all gears. it makes the w58 look tiny. i will start a project thread but cant seem to attach bloody photos on here. Edited August 11, 2013 by aspire (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abtin90 Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 You'll need an mk3 prop or early soarer one. Also is it a stock clutch and flywheel your using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest aspire Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 yes stock clutch and flywheel sounds as if scrapping but goes when clutch depressed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest aspire Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 You'll need an mk3 prop or early soarer one. Also is it a stock clutch and flywheel your using? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Lexus-Soarer-1991-2000-SC400-4-0-V8-Drive-Shaft-Prop-Shaft-Cardan-/321167629664?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4ac7151d60 would this one do ????????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abtin90 Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Lexus-Soarer-1991-2000-SC400-4-0-V8-Drive-Shaft-Prop-Shaft-Cardan-/321167629664?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4ac7151d60 would this one do ????????? No it would have to be from a soarer with an r154 fitted. Which if I remember corrected was only fitted to the 1jz engine one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest aspire Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 would a mk3 not do? front section Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abtin90 Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 would a mk3 not do? front section Yeah mk3 will be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest aspire Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 mk3 manual or auto diff mate? any ideas about flywheel noise??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abtin90 Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 mk3 manual or auto diff mate? any ideas about flywheel noise??? Mk3 manual with a factory r154. There was one for sale on driftworks the other week but its sold now. Best bet is to put up a wanted ad as that's how I found mine. Not too sure about the flywheel noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest aspire Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 Mk3 manual with a factory r154. There was one for sale on driftworks the other week but its sold now. Best bet is to put up a wanted ad as that's how I found mine. Not too sure about the flywheel noise. sell me yours! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest aspire Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 anyone regarding the flywheel noise? come on guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abtin90 Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 Lol sorry I'm keeping it for now In regards to the noise I did some reading on other forums can't find much. Did read that if the flywheel isn't torqued properly it could result in noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest aspire Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 Mate, I told you that the prop in a kit supplied from a Chaser would need shortening. I fitted the exact same type of kit to my car, the prop was modified at a local specialists. The gear stick does tend to sit closer to the dash alright but on mine, with no interior panels to speak of, it isn't a problem. - - - Updated - - - Mate, I told you that the prop in a kit supplied from a Chaser would need shortening. I fitted the exact same type of kit to my car, the prop was modified at a local specialists. The gear stick does tend to sit closer to the dash alright but on mine, with no interior panels to speak of, it isn't a problem. which part did they shorten? front or back, did you use the mkiv prop bearing or the chaser? what measurments were used? any of this info would be much appreciated..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 What I got the driveshaft specialist to do was this: Remove/cut the carrier bearing & mounting flange off the NA front section of the prop shaft. Remove/cut the carrier bearing & mounting flange, plus whatever extra length of material needed to be removed from the front section of the shaft supplied with the R154. Weld the carrier bearing & mounting flange from the NA shaft to the shortened R154 shaft, balance the finished article and hand the feckin' thing back to me. Before I brought anything to the machine shop I decided on the amount to be removed from the R154 by simply fitting the splined end of the prop shaft to the R154 as it would normally sit, look for a small extra shiny ring around the circumference of the splined section, that is where the rear oil seal runs and where you want the shortened shaft to run as well, a couple of mm either side of this mark is fine but don't leave the shaft either too long or too short as you'll get trouble later. The amount you need to remove is the distance the R154 front section mounting flange would need to travel towards the front of the car in order for it to sit in line with the mounting flange of the NA rear section. DO NOT HAVE THE R154 FRONT SECTION SHOVED COMPLETELY INTO THE GEARBOX WHEN TAKING THIS MEASUREMENT OR THE DRIVESHAFT WILL STILL BE TOO LONG!! The guards should form almost a little close fitting box around the splined section, still with room to move in & out. I think my shaft needed to be shortened by about 35mm. You will obviously not take this as the amount to chop yours by I'm just mentioning it as it seems like a small amount to be going to all this trouble for but that's all it takes to put the shaft right. The whole thing took a day and roughly £70 to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest aspire Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 looks like this is your problem mate . the mk3 front prop should solve it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest aspire Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 looks like this is your problem mate . the mk3 front prop should solve it ok, so dont start cutting and welding? just fit mk3 front prop? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 thats how idid it, the black shroud needs a little trim but fits a treat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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