rob_sri Posted August 6, 2013 Author Share Posted August 6, 2013 Hello. This is something that we would like to look into for you, if you do have any outstanding queries then please email [email protected] with Reference FOR47822 in the subject title. Please could you include your full name, address and membership number. Regards, the Official Representative of The AA Wow, wasn't expecting an official response but okay, i'll give you a call.. Wonder how they found the thread?! In fairness it was one of the mansfield group that got sent out after the AA couldnt send anyone as it must of been a busy night as it took 3 hours for them to arrive! so yeah you can see why I wasnt probably best pleased after waiting for so long at that time to get nowhere and be told jus drive it back and call us back if you have any issues...although like I said he was a nice enough chap and we had a chat .. just not one tool was reached for lol he reckoned it could be head gasket even though I told him the scenario with the puddles in the bores and a quite strong possibility for an airlock, he sniffed the coolant which seemed clear and left it at that.. think he was jus shattered and wanted to sleep as much as me! generally I have always been happy with the AA and tbf the Mansfield group too.. last guy who helped me out when my clios alternator decided to die halfway down the m6 was spot on and dead helpful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_sri Posted August 6, 2013 Author Share Posted August 6, 2013 I actually have a spare thermostat seal sat here if yours is no good -I think! just picked the stat up from mr T and yeah no seal!!!! if you have one spare i'd rather give you the money than the stealership let me know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted August 6, 2013 Share Posted August 6, 2013 (edited) Perhaps the AA would like to comment in the thread ? So the AA guy sniffed the coolant and did nothing else ? Doesn't sound so great to me seeing as you have an aluminium head that if overheated can go soft and or warp. Then its scrap and a new one just to buy the bare head is over £1k Edited August 6, 2013 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_sri Posted August 6, 2013 Author Share Posted August 6, 2013 Perhaps the AA would like to comment in the thread ? So the AA guy sniffed the coolant and did nothing else ? Doesn't sound so great to me seeing as you have an aluminium head that if overheated can go soft and or warp. Then its scrap and a new one just to buy the bare head is over £1k That's it lol aside from asking me to rev it a few times to hear the misfire he said he didn't have tools to do a pressure test.. I'm still convinced that it's an air lock and water on the plugs Removing a spark plug wouldn't of been a big ask to try cure the misfire or help us with trying to bleed the cooling system/check for leaks.. But there we go! Mine is only a ge non turbo is not as expensive to repair but I sure hope it's not damaged the head or anything :-/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted August 6, 2013 Share Posted August 6, 2013 (edited) That's it lol aside from asking me to rev it a few times to hear the misfire he said he didn't have tools to do a pressure test.. I'm still convinced that it's an air lock and water on the plugs Removing a spark plug wouldn't of been a big ask to try cure the misfire or help us with trying to bleed the cooling system/check for leaks.. But there we go! Mine is only a ge non turbo is not as expensive to repair but I sure hope it's not damaged the head or anything :-/ I've not priced up an NA head but doubt its any cheaper to buy, the only saving you'd have is on labour as it'll be quicker to change than a tt head. I'd bet you'd still be into the best part of a couple of grand if not more depending on the hourly rate of whoever did the job. You'd actually be better off finding another NA engine to exchange as they don't seem to fetch very much money Edited August 6, 2013 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_sri Posted August 6, 2013 Author Share Posted August 6, 2013 Oh yeah definitely and the point still stands .. Hopefully that's not the case though!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted August 6, 2013 Share Posted August 6, 2013 just picked the stat up from mr T and yeah no seal!!!! if you have one spare i'd rather give you the money than the stealership let me know Brand new OEM Toyota seal sat here in an envelope ready to write your name on. Just drop me a pm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_sri Posted August 11, 2013 Author Share Posted August 11, 2013 Still can't seem to get it to bleed properly.. Heaters blow cold and i don't think the new stat is opening.. Grrrr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 It wont if the stats not opening, take it out and check it in a pan of boiling water Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 What exactly have you done in it since? Have you driven it somewhere etc or just tried things on the drive? Overflow tank full to the max line, rad full and cap on half a turn, heater turned to full, start it up and what happens...after a bit do some fast idle/hold at 2-3000rpm cycles. As it warms feel the heater matrix in and out pipes to check if none, one or both are hot. If it gets to and holds at the usual mid way on the temp gauge then I'd personally go out and drive a loop very close to home and see if that doesn't force the air out and the heater to come back to life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_sri Posted August 11, 2013 Author Share Posted August 11, 2013 Basically what I've done... Replaced thermostat, seal, rad cap for an oem item ran some rad flush and tried to rebleed it.. No joy today heaters still cold tried refilling from the rad with a funnel in it and front elevated with some revs.. No bubbles appearing out the radcap after some squeezing of pipes.. dropped it down (still running) car sitting on the idle top pipe warm bottom pipe cold.. Took it for a quick spin.. Bottom pipe warm top pipe hot.. Heaters still cold.. No sign of overheating temp needle sat bang in the middle..after the car was off it didnt boil over either.. however... Just before the light went completely I may have found a problem.. I attached my garden hose to the in and out pipes from the heater matrix.. Yellow is the garden hose with water flowing in green is just a spare bit which is the drainage hose Which goes into a bucket like this.. First few buckets came out dark orange with grainy sandy sludge in the bottom of it... Kept changing the water buckets till they appeared clear from colour and sand... Could this of been the problem all the while! :-/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 If the matrix is clogged up then yes it could very well be your problem. The worst case is you might need a new matrix which is a dash out job but hopefully flushing it could do the trick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_sri Posted August 11, 2013 Author Share Posted August 11, 2013 If the matrix is clogged up then yes it could very well be your problem. The worst case is you might need a new matrix which is a dash out job but hopefully flushing it could do the trick with the amount of thick crap that came out of it I would put money on it being the cause!! I would imagine that the flush has probably cured it too.. I ran a whole load of water through until it started coming out completely clear with absolutely no sludge.. if this has worked il post up because the heater matrix would be an arse to get to..!! if this works then people may want to copy it or copy it anyway.. would be a good preventative measure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 The matrix usually leaks when they get really old, the dash out isn't too bad to do, there's a decent guide on here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straightsix Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 Fingers crossed that flushing it will have cured your problems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_sri Posted August 12, 2013 Author Share Posted August 12, 2013 Blowing warm/cold now still no overheating though..! I think I may just give up and take it to a garage lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 maybe the pump is weak or lost a blade or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 (edited) Blowing warm/cold now still no overheating though..! I think I may just give up and take it to a garage lol A silly one to check, is the control rod connected, you can see it from the passenger footwell, these are known to fall off. There is a thread on here somewhere with photos, i'll see if i can find it Edited August 13, 2013 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?49871-Heater-Maximum-Output-Temperature-Too-Low&highlight=heater+controls Post 16 page 2 Hopefully the following may be of some use and potentially save someone a good few hours of wasted time... It did turn out to be the air mixing flap that was causing the problem. When looking from behind the left dash panel (as mentioned above), I could see the actuating arm move ok when the heater temperature knob was turned; what I didn't realise at the time, was that a rod connected to the actuating arm goes down through the heater unit and ends up at point 'A' in the first photo (which is looking up towards the heater unit from the passenger footwell). The actuating arm had come off the air flap lever end as at point 'B' in the second photo (just taken it off again for the photo ) It should be connected as in the third photo at point 'C'. After spending quite some time flushing the system out (which was clean anyway), the fix turned out to be very simple and took no more than a minute or so. Anyway, I've now got a heater that when on maximum it could strip paint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_sri Posted August 14, 2013 Author Share Posted August 14, 2013 that rod is all present and correct..! back to the drawing board.. I may just start again.. try draining all the coolant and going again..a friend suggested that i pull the bottom rad hose off.. drain it... then with the engine running..refill slowly with a funnel and leave to idle for 10 mins with the rad cap off squeezing all the hoses lightly for some encouragement... I think a test of my new stat is in order too just to make sure its not faulty.. whats the best way to test the water pump i'm pretty sure its okay as the level rises and drops with revving etc? i hope its okay anyways dont fancy the cambelt on off job really! is it possible that garages may have a tool to pressure fill the system properly from the rad cap? if so any suggestions for decent garages in birmingham/walsall/tamworth what an absolute arse ache! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted August 14, 2013 Share Posted August 14, 2013 that rod is all present and correct..! back to the drawing board.. I may just start again.. try draining all the coolant and going again..a friend suggested that i pull the bottom rad hose off.. drain it... then with the engine running..refill slowly with a funnel and leave to idle for 10 mins with the rad cap off squeezing all the hoses lightly for some encouragement... I think a test of my new stat is in order too just to make sure its not faulty.. whats the best way to test the water pump i'm pretty sure its okay as the level rises and drops with revving etc? i hope its okay anyways dont fancy the cambelt on off job really! is it possible that garages may have a tool to pressure fill the system properly from the rad cap? if so any suggestions for decent garages in birmingham/walsall/tamworth what an absolute arse ache! Definitely check that thermostat. You can check the water pump is working by pulling the top rad hose and starting the engine very briefly to see if it throws any water through (I'm sure there are better methods ). I haven't read it all but you have checked your radiator isn't blocked haven't you? There is also a coolant drain towards the rear of the block on the offside, although I've only ever used it when I was stripping the engine and wanted to ensure it was properly drained so not sure if it would help draining from there or not. If you do for whatever reason end up changing the water pump it's a doddle really. Did one recently to get a friend out the sticky stuff and it only took 3.5 hours start to finish. The only PITA is getting the crank pulley off the end of the crank but that's easy with the correct puller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted August 14, 2013 Share Posted August 14, 2013 Can we just clarify that the 'only' problem now is a lack of heat through the heaters? It runs and doesn't overheat, yes? If so how far have you driven it since have you got it warm and have you done some reasonably quick driving round at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_sri Posted August 16, 2013 Author Share Posted August 16, 2013 Definitely check that thermostat. You can check the water pump is working by pulling the top rad hose and starting the engine very briefly to see if it throws any water through (I'm sure there are better methods ). I haven't read it all but you have checked your radiator isn't blocked haven't you? There is also a coolant drain towards the rear of the block on the offside, although I've only ever used it when I was stripping the engine and wanted to ensure it was properly drained so not sure if it would help draining from there or not. If you do for whatever reason end up changing the water pump it's a doddle really. Did one recently to get a friend out the sticky stuff and it only took 3.5 hours start to finish. The only PITA is getting the crank pulley off the end of the crank but that's easy with the correct puller. Right il test the pump then and thermostat and see how we are..might try flushing again.. I think the rad is okay as water seems to flow round when I attached the garden hose up and through squeezing pipes etc I've driven it about a bit for a few miles and it hasn't overheated but I've been careful as I'm not sure how much I trust it at the moment not to leave me stranded! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_sri Posted August 17, 2013 Author Share Posted August 17, 2013 (edited) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlP5WDyfMik seems a bit weak maybe?? Edited August 17, 2013 by rob_sri (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlP5WDyfMik would this mean the water pump is okay? seems a bit weak maybe?? If that radiator was full of water at the time then that is definitely weaker than the one I tried the other week using the same method. I've just binned a good second hand pump or I'd of said I'll fit that for you to see if it cures the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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