rob_sri Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 Long long night...! basically the rear coolant top pipe decided to split on me sending steam and coolant shooting everywhere the other day..so far I have managed to cut the split part off and stick it back down with a jubilee clip which seems to have done the trick whilst im waiting for the bits from mr T https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1012454_489847317773051_87284443_n.jpg its now developed a horrible misfire under load..there seemed to be a bit of coolant around the plug bores which i managed to dry out i think.. took number 6 plug out and cleaned it.. no change.. very slow revving seems okay.. it will only stutter at any kind of sudden load temp seems to sit smack in the middle on the gauge but heaters dont seem to get hot and the coolant has boiled and spewed it out the expansion tank.. im pretty sure i bled the system correctly.. jacked the front of the car up used a bottle in the rad and kept filling until it stopped bubbling with the heaters on and the car running.. im thinking maybe the thermostat has had it or maybe there is a blockage?? im stumped lol whats going on! it was all running hunky dory before that little bit of pipe decided to end itself! coolant smells okay and no smoke from the zaust or mayo in the oil.. how would you proceed ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 Do these have a bleed point for the heater matrix, like the mr2? I only ask, as I'm sure sure those two hoses are the flow and return to the matrix? As for the misfire, have you tried removing the last bank of coils (number 5 and 6) to see if they've got moisture in them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rummy Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 Boiling does usually indicate a faulty stat and or rad. Personally, I would try a rad cap first, then if symptoms continue, replace the stat and rad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 For the misfire... I would triple check that all the spark plugs are dry, I would take off the distributor cap and ensure it is completely dry inside i.e no moisture, make sure all HT leads are secure and the leads aren't cut/damaged, make sure rotor arm is still attached and isn't damaged or in need of replacement, do a 'drop test' where you pull each plug lead off one by one to see which cylinder/s it's actually misfiring on and you can check for spark at the same time and if all this seems good then I would check your spark plugs themselves for cracks or anything like that as it can and does happen (mainly when they are overtightened). For the overheating.. replace the radiator cap with a OEM Toyota item regardless as if it hasn't been changed they do fail, check both top and bottom radiator hoses are getting hot and take out the thermostat and put it in a bowl of hot water to confirm it is actually opening although I would recommend a new one if there's no history of it being changed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camry5Sgte Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 Could still be an air lock in the block from when you refilled it. I know you said you jacked up the car and left the heater and car on while attempting to bleed, but this does not always do the trick. Try squeezing the lower radiator hose while its running and see if that changes the coolant level at all. Aside from that, cap and thermostat are next as stated already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wile e coyote Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 Basically what everybody else said Double check everything dry and make sure you got Heater on hot to get rid if air locks Had to run bro with rad cap off for but to get rid of air Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straightsix Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 For what it costs, I would replace the stat and rad cap regardless. Also squeeze all rubber coolant hoses and shake the heater hoses (the ones you replaced) as this will help dislodge any air as well as sqeezing the rad hoses. Take your time and as said by Wile E Coyote above, you may need to leave the rad cap off while doing it. I would expect you to find water in the spark plug wells from where you had the coolant leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_sri Posted August 2, 2013 Author Share Posted August 2, 2013 cheers for all the replies so far !! thanks for the suggestions too rich.. can a faulty stat cause this kind of problem? im still not 100 percent convinced i've bled it properly.. i suppose il have to just start again with it.. take the bottom hose off.. drain the engine coolant etc completely.. run a hose through it and refill.. how would I check for blockages? cause thats the only other thing I can think of.. being an old car with old piping that its just blocked up somewhere.. I think il replace Stat/cap/and plugs anyway as after inspection of number 6 plug there is a hairline crack down the ceramic and it looks a bit old and cack! there is a little moisture still in the bottom of the wells by the looks.. just round the base of the plug.. the fact it only misses intermittently on load seems odd it was fine before this pipe went.. no overheating or misfire so hopefully must all be related to that! my probably incorrect logic suggests that as everything was okay before that the stat/cap etc is okay and water would of been circulating fine or I would of had issues sooner.. and probably just an air lock.. (not that I can work out how to properly bleed it evidently!) and the missing is due to moisture.. somewhere it shouldnt be.. but I really dont know lol!! called the AA out last night as didnt want to drive it with the chance of overheating and potentially warping things and the guy who turned up didnt really seem intereste.. tbf nice guy but.. just couldnt be arsed.. must of been a long night or whatever cause he kind of went with the opinion of it must be headgasket after testing absolutely nothing and that we obviously knew our stuff and he'd leave us to it.. give us a call if it blows up.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_sri Posted August 2, 2013 Author Share Posted August 2, 2013 oh and another thing jus moving it down the road then it didnt seem to miss as much from cold.. it seemed to get up to temp very quickly and be missing more then! but that could just be my imagination Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 (edited) When you bled it the stat hadn't probably opened hence the heater is not blowing hot as its only got air in it. Try bleeding it for longer, run engine with rad cap off and heater off, get it up to temp and top up the rad as you go, turn heater on max hot, if its not blowing hot try raising the rpm of the engine to 2000 which will help raise the coolant temp to open the stat, when this happens the level in the rad will drop so top up and check heater is hot, job done. No need to jack up the car when doing this, i've bled up plenty of mkivs and all done on level ground, some are stubborn and need the rpm raised for a while to open the stat. For what they cost i would fit new stat and cap but i'd check the old stat just to know if it was working correctly or not. Edited August 2, 2013 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheTurtleshead Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 The missfire is probably water in the valley where the plugs sit on top of the head.. or just that cracked plug. take the covers off and dry it all out. The boiling sounds like an air lock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_sri Posted August 2, 2013 Author Share Posted August 2, 2013 75 for the stat, pipe and rad cap outch !!! Ordered some new plugs too so that should sort it..I hope! Thanks for the comments really appreciate any advice or tips :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_sri Posted August 2, 2013 Author Share Posted August 2, 2013 When you bled it the stat hadn't probably opened hence the heater is not blowing hot as its only got air in it. Try bleeding it for longer, run engine with rad cap off and heater off, get it up to temp and top up the rad as you go, turn heater on max hot, if its not blowing hot try raising the rpm of the engine to 2000 which will help raise the coolant temp to open the stat, when this happens the level in the rad will drop so top up and check heater is hot, job done. No need to jack up the car when doing this, i've bled up plenty of mkivs and all done on level ground, some are stubborn and need the rpm raised for a while to open the stat. For what they cost i would fit new stat and cap but i'd check the old stat just to know if it was working correctly or not. Will be using this as a guide thanks mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 (edited) Retail inc vat Seal £7.52 Stat £27.43 Cap £22.02 Hose £43.48 Hose £92.03 You got a decent deal if your £75 includes vat The hoses are the killer and your local motor factors or a silicon hose supplier would be a much cheaper way to go Edited August 2, 2013 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_sri Posted August 2, 2013 Author Share Posted August 2, 2013 That's just the rear top coolant pipe stat and rad cap.. Does it not come with a seal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 That's just the rear top coolant pipe stat and rad cap.. Does it not come with a seal? Not as far as i'm aware hence the separate price Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_sri Posted August 2, 2013 Author Share Posted August 2, 2013 Good point ...doh!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_sri Posted August 2, 2013 Author Share Posted August 2, 2013 Whenever I have bought stats before they have come with a seal... Cheeky gits lol oh well only £7 lol il get some Samco or similar hoses for the rad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 Whenever I have bought stats before they have come with a seal... Cheeky gits lol oh well only £7 lol il get some Samco or similar hoses for the rad Check Whifbitz and SRD for the upper and lower rad pipes, they both sell silicon replacements and double check the stat seal before you order one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 I actually have a spare thermostat seal sat here if yours is no good -I think! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest The AA Posted August 6, 2013 Share Posted August 6, 2013 Hello. This is something that we would like to look into for you, if you do have any outstanding queries then please email [email protected] with Reference FOR47822 in the subject title. Please could you include your full name, address and membership number. Regards, the Official Representative of The AA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted August 6, 2013 Share Posted August 6, 2013 Hello. This is something that we would like to look into for you, if you do have any outstanding queries then please email ...with Reference ....in the subject title. Please could you include your full name, address and membership number. Regards, the Official Representative of The AA erhm i think you have to be a trader to do that sort of thing on here ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbm Posted August 6, 2013 Share Posted August 6, 2013 erhm i think you have to be a trader to do that sort of thing on here ! Like you I thought this, but wiser mods than me have read the whole thread. I think the AA are replying to the fact they were called out to this and they're seeing if they can help some more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted August 6, 2013 Share Posted August 6, 2013 called the AA out last night as didnt want to drive it with the chance of overheating and potentially warping things and the guy who turned up didnt really seem intereste.. tbf nice guy but.. just couldnt be arsed.. must of been a long night or whatever cause he kind of went with the opinion of it must be headgasket after testing absolutely nothing and that we obviously knew our stuff and he'd leave us to it.. give us a call if it blows up.. Possibly these comments are what the AA are wanting to clarify ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted August 6, 2013 Share Posted August 6, 2013 Like you I thought this, but wiser mods than me have read the whole thread. I think the AA are replying to the fact they were called out to this and they're seeing if they can help some more. that really is good service then amazing how they found this thread though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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