TBDevelopments Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 I'm in the middle of doing a custom centre dash, basically instead of having my avcr boost controller just stuck somewhere I've decided to loose the centre air vent and clock and sink it into that space. I've plastic welded in blanking panels and the avcr case and is all coming out nicely. But on the finishing stages of plastic primer and high build flexible primer I'm getting a reaction line from where the modifications have gone through the original silver paint on the feather line which to me is suggesting its enamel based and is reacting with the solvent of the new applications. Has anyone else come across this? I think i already know the answer to this and that is to sand all the original Toyota topcoat off to get to the bare plastic underneath but wandering what peoples opinions were on this. Ideally i don't want to have to do this because i can't match the original silver dash I'm having to repaint every panel in there to match so can see this taking a while if i have to sand off every one to bare plastic before repainting. Many thanks Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
listy Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 I think i already know the answer to this and that is to sand all the original Toyota topcoat off to get to the bare plastic underneath but wandering what peoples opinions were on this. Ideally i don't want to have to do this because i can't match the original silver dash I'm having to repaint every panel in there to match so can see this taking a while if i have to sand off every one to bare plastic before repainting. Unfortunately, I think you're right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBDevelopments Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 did you have the same issue? If this was on a normal body panel, metal etc I would just spray a barrier coat before primer or anything else, but being plastic and having to have that flexible factor its a little difficult. I sanded the centre panel back to plastic last night with some 80-grit so now need to work my way back to a 400-grit to reapply the primer. But wandering if there is another way for all the other interior plastic panels 6 in total without having to go right back to bare plastic Thanks for any advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
listy Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 You should get away with scotch padding the panels to get the primer to stick I reckon. - - - Updated - - - You should get away with scotch padding the panels to get the primer to stick I reckon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBDevelopments Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 its more reaction on any feather edges of the panels because of the original enamel based paints Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keron Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 tbh you are prob better to paint the whole panel to avoid this... but sand down the whole panel first...then primer before paint...all depends on what type of paint was used before, if it was a different type of paint/top coat, it will react... only way to eliminate it would be to prep and paint the whole panel... i have some vgc sets in the fs section if you need spares etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBDevelopments Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 oh there all getting painted anyway. but on the facelift panels from what i can tell the factory paint is enamel based. So when spray this U-Pol Solvent based plastic paint its having a reaction with any deep scratches or any feather edges between the edge of the paint and the base plastic underneath. Because the centre panel has had modifications done i can't just go over the top of the standard paint because of these paint edges. See what i mean? If you sand it down to remove them you just end up moving the feature edge across then it does the same again when you add primer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottC Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 What about plasti dip, seems to be the in thing at the moment? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Littler Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 I didn't think facelift panels were painted or had the rubber coating like pre-facelift, they are just dark grey/charcoal plastic? In your first post you mention there painted silver, no dash panels were ever silver were they? Happy to be corrected on that though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skippyboyo1 Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 I used ipa to get the rubber coat off, it was a horrible job that I won't be doing again in a hurry let me tell you! In the end I just had the panels rapped as it p###ed me off that much. Job done - - - Updated - - - Mine were... Pre facelift Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBDevelopments Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 I didn't think facelift panels were painted or had the rubber coating like pre-facelift, they are just dark grey/charcoal plastic? In your first post you mention there painted silver, no dash panels were ever silver were they? Happy to be corrected on that though yeah the facelift cars had a silver/gunmetal type of interior which is just painted ontop of black ABS/PS plastic. i had thought about plastidip but think i'm going to go for a more stock looking setup either black or a similar gunmetal color and matt clear. despite the avcr addition want to keep it fairly "factory option" appearance here from my build diary on here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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