drift_bear Posted December 5, 2013 Share Posted December 5, 2013 Dude go try the igniter on the car. I put money on it that's the problem. Had it on my first supra. Same symptoms gets hot and breaks down once cooled down it behaves again. The car hasn't ran since Monday so will be cooled down, still not starting before we changed the distributor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nevins Posted December 5, 2013 Share Posted December 5, 2013 So a chance that it's given up the ghost then and it was an intermittent fault now a constant fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drift_bear Posted December 5, 2013 Share Posted December 5, 2013 So a chance that it's given up the ghost then and it was an intermittent fault now a constant fault. Going to be pissed off if it's shagged the engine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nevins Posted December 5, 2013 Share Posted December 5, 2013 Doubt the engines gone mate ask homer lol. Could be moisture in the plug and it's shorting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drift_bear Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 Away to erase all the stored codes and then re-check to see if the original cods come back or if new ones get thrown up, then I'll check all spark plug chambers for water. Anything else I can check? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87 Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 Well spark is one area to check. So check water on plug wells. This can be very intermittent to constant. The check for fuel. Remove the battery for a while or main fuse, google which, that will remove codes and u can go again. But water in the Clark chamber brought me 3 faults entirely unrelated to the water. Cleaned it out and everything went away! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drift_bear Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 Well spark is one area to check. So check water on plug wells. This can be very intermittent to constant. The check for fuel. Remove the battery for a while or main fuse, google which, that will remove codes and u can go again. But water in the Clark chamber brought me 3 faults entirely unrelated to the water. Cleaned it out and everything went away! I know to disconnect the battery and that will erase all the codes so I can then recheck. Cause we can't get the car to my house I'm doing this in the street between snow showers it's going to be a long day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drift_bear Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 (edited) Just disconnected and reconnected the battery to check and there's now just error 12 Edited December 6, 2013 by drift_bear (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 Code 12 is the Crankshaft position sensor. When this goes wrong you'll have starting and running problems A lot of the problems in this area in the past has not been due to the sensor itself, but the sprocket it reads coming free from the crank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drift_bear Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 Code 12 is the Crankshaft position sensor. When this goes wrong you'll have starting and running problems A lot of the problems in this area in the past has not been due to the sensor itself, but the sprocket it reads coming free from the crank. I asked keron a few weeks back for a crankshaft position sensor and he said the NA's didn't have one where about is it located ian? Am I able to fix/clean it or do I need a new one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drift_bear Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 After getting the issue about crankshaft position sensor on an NA sorted, I went back and checked over all the connections, timing and plugs. Everything seemed to be ok until I noticed the plug on the side of the distributor wasn't on proper, quick push together and I'm getting some progress! Now instead of the engine just cranking and nothing happening, it's now cranking and trying to turn over fully but not quite making it! I took of the oil cap and there was a little smell of fuel in it. This would of been caused by the excessive turning over/cranking the last few days by my mate and a couple of times today by me. Tonight once my mate gets home from work, we're going to check how healthy the battery is and put in some more fuel (it's currently on the last line before empty). Anymore ideas on what to check? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 Did you not look at the pictures I put up in the other post? Everything there is diagnosis of fault code 12 for a GE straight out of the book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drift_bear Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 Did you not look at the pictures I put up in the other post? Everything there is diagnosis of fault code 12 for a GE straight out of the book. Haven't checked the other thread yet mate, will do that just now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drift_bear Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 A quick update on this after spending all day yesterday on it. It did start but then died after 15-20mins and hasnt started again. Changed the following - Distributor Spark plugs Igniter Coilpack Re-timed Anyone anymore ideas what to check or etc?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjy Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 Make sure the pump's pumping dude. And also when it does run, have a sniff at the back of the car. If it smells mega fuelly it could be a ECT sensor flooding it up. Spray a bit of easy start up the air intake and if it fires up, it's a fuel problem, not ignition Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drift_bear Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 Make sure the pump's pumping dude. And also when it does run, have a sniff at the back of the car. If it smells mega fuelly it could be a ECT sensor flooding it up. Spray a bit of easy start up the air intake and if it fires up, it's a fuel problem, not ignition Going to do a check on the fuel pump that homer told me about to test if it's running proper. There's fuel getting to the chambers cause when we took the new plug out of chamber 1 to do the timing I checked to see if you could smell fuel on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjy Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 How much fuel though? Bear in mind that although fuel evaporates quickly, the smell may not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LOGIE Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 Is the rotor arm in the dizzy in the correct place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drift_bear Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 How much fuel though? Bear in mind that although fuel evaporates quickly, the smell may not. I bridged the +B and FP in the diagnostic port to check the pump is working and then turned it over using that method, still no luck ! Is the rotor arm in the dizzy in the correct place? Yeah te rotor arm is pointing to 1 on the dizzy, we set all that up with Craig (dr_jekyyl) yesterday dude. Just checked all fuses and everything is ok, done an error code check again and it's still throwing up code 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjy Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 Chuck some easy start up it and see if it fires mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drift_bear Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 Chuck some easy start up it and see if it fires mate Chuck easy start where lol, won't be able to get any untill tomorrow now. Going to bite the bullet and get a car electrician to check everything on that side of things! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjy Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 Take the airbox off and spray it up the intake pipe mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 or brake cleaner that'll do for a quick test Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drift_bear Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 Might try that tomorrow then ben/Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bailey Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 If it runs on easy start or brake cleaner - you know its a fuel related issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.