mull1986 Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 Hi fellow supra lovers, I have an annoying issue which is as follows; The bottom rad pipe stays stone cold, although the rad is brand new fitted on Saturday which gets hot, the top pipe gets hot, the water pump where the bottom pipe leads to is hot. I did wonder if I had an airlock so ive soent an hour trying to bleed the system which didnt seem to work, tips on how to do this properly would be appreciated thanks. I'm not that mechinically minded and also I've checked for leaks in pipes which there doesn't seem to be any. Please could someone help as this is seriously bugging me and I can't seem to drive more than 10 miles without having to top the rad up. Grrrr!! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Littler Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 Put the heater on full on hot, does it get hot? The tip I was given was to leave the rad cap off let it get hot, blip the throttle slightly and make sure you top the rad up as it goes down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 When I fitted my new radiator I managed to drain the entire engine of coolant which meant after filling up the rad there was no coolant on the functional side of the thermostat so no matter how hot the engine gets the thermostat will not open. If this has somehow happened to you take the top hose off from the rad inlet end and point it up then poor coolant in from that way slowly and checking the level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mull1986 Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share Posted July 23, 2013 Done all that littler mate, I was doing it right then, but bottom pipe is still cold???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 Thermostat stuck closed allowing no flow through? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mull1986 Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share Posted July 23, 2013 When I fitted my new radiator I managed to drain the entire engine of coolant which meant after filling up the rad there was no coolant on the functional side of the thermostat so no matter how hot the engine gets the thermostat will not open. If this has somehow happened to you take the top hose off from the rad inlet end and point it up then poor coolant in from that way slowly and checking the level. I'm gonna try that shortly pal thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mull1986 Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share Posted July 23, 2013 Thermostat stuck closed allowing no flow through? Stat was changed roughly a year ago, could it have gone wrong already?? Would I still get hot air if it was closed? Sorry if that's stupid lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 How long have you had the system drained? Could the stat have had time to dry out and corrode its self shut? If you can get access easy enough to the stat its worth popping it in a sauspan of water and checking it opens at near boiling tempreture. Try what I said in my previous post first though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 (edited) If you have a hot heater then there must be coolant in the system to feed the heater Does your car temp stay normal when you drive. Has the expansion tank been refitted and filled approx half full Edited July 23, 2013 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mull1986 Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share Posted July 23, 2013 (edited) If you have a hot heater then there must be coolant in the system to feed the heater Does your car temp stay normal when you drive. Has the expansion tank been refitted and filled approx half full The expansion tank is absolutely fine and the temp needle stays about half way, the car did overheat 2 weeks ago but was topped up right away so hopefully no serious issues with the engine just the cold pipe at bottom of rad. Could the overheating screwed the stat? Edited July 23, 2013 by mull1986 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mull1986 Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share Posted July 23, 2013 How long have you had the system drained? Could the stat have had time to dry out and corrode its self shut? If you can get access easy enough to the stat its worth popping it in a sauspan of water and checking it opens at near boiling tempreture. Try what I said in my previous post first though. I'm gonna do it now but the stat hasn't been dry long enough to seize shut I hope. Car overheated 2 weeks ago and topped it up straight away or could this have knackered the stat? I'll post again when I've done what you said mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 As Dnk asked, does the heater blow out hot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 Just drive it and keep an eye on the temp gauge, also check the expansion tank once the engine has cooled to make sure your not losing coolant. The system if all is working as it should will self bleed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Blyth Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 The bottom pipe (outlet) of the radiator should be cold. It means that the radiator is doing its job. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mull1986 Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share Posted July 23, 2013 As Dnk asked, does the heater blow out hot? Yeah it blows hot air mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mull1986 Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share Posted July 23, 2013 Just drive it and keep an eye on the temp gauge, also check the expansion tank once the engine has cooled to make sure your not losing coolant. The system if all is working as it should will self bleed Will do dnk but I am loosing coolant still after a little drive :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mull1986 Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share Posted July 23, 2013 The bottom pipe (outlet) of the radiator should be cold. It means that the radiator is doing its job. HTH Oh. Sorry for my ignorance but is this correct as it was hot after replacing rad on Saturday. But I'm worried about this as I checked coolant levels today and they were very low but expansion tank was spot on at the full line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mull1986 Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share Posted July 23, 2013 Thanks everyone for your comments and help. Keeping my fingers crossed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 (edited) Will do dnk but I am loosing coolant still after a little drive :/ If you are definitely losing coolant from the expansion tank then you have a problem or the system is self bleeding. It should stop self bleeding once any air is out of the system and if you continue to see the level in the expansion tank drop then there is another issue. What rad do you have now and do you have a new stock pressure rated rad cap fitted to it How much are you losing after the little drive ? Edited July 24, 2013 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 (edited) The outlet on the rad should be colder than the inlet as that's how the system flows, the hot coolant goes in at the top of the rad then through the rad down to the bottom cooling as it goes then back into the engine through the thermostat. The stock temp for the stat is 82 degrees Edited July 24, 2013 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mull1986 Posted July 24, 2013 Author Share Posted July 24, 2013 If you are definitely losing coolant from the expansion tank then you have a problem or the system is self bleeding. It should stop self bleeding once any air is out of the system and if you continue to see the level in the expansion tank drop then there is another issue. What rad do you have now and do you have a new stock pressure rated rad cap fitted to it How much are you losing after the little drive ? Oh I'm not losing any coolant out of the expansion tank, that's fine, new rad cap came with the new rad, I'm was and probably still am loosing coolant out of the rad after driving, don't loose any when car sat still so could I be right in thinking a possible cracked block? I'm going for a drive tonight so I will check levels before n after. Thanks for your help mate, much appreciated! If it keeps happening I will have to keep searching for a leak, not found it yet if there is one but will keep looking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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