bluedrag Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 Hey guys, so i thought it was about time i started my NA-T build finally and have ahd a good start so far with getting the manifold installed and removing a fair bit of unessisary c**p around the motor (pics to come soon) last night i managed to get my oil return drilled out bt just wondering is 10mm a big enough drain size? as to get it any bigger id really need to take the motor out which i am loath to do at this point cheers pics to come tonight after work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berg Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 Why do you need to take the motor out? I did mine yesterday with a 18mm holesaw. Id imagine it needs to atleast be the size of the drain hose which is around 16mm i think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh42 Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 You really should remove the engine and take the oil pan off to drill it. Having drilled mine and watch the amount of dwarf kicked out, I would hate to think of that floating round in your oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 (edited) -- Edited July 18, 2013 by Rich.2211 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly Posted July 19, 2013 Share Posted July 19, 2013 you really need to remove the lower sump pan , you can and many have drilled with it in place but there are huge risks with kicking debris into your oil. You could tap the top of the sump towards the back where the cast meets the lower oil pan you can then place a fitting and run the oil return to that.....this method allows for engine and oil pan to remain in the car ( oil pan just moved our the way to not drop debris in) this is how i did mine as i wanted to see if there was a better method... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herb Posted July 19, 2013 Share Posted July 19, 2013 Aren't there also oilfilter sandwich plates that allow you to fit the oil line. I think Titan sells one (I think it's mishimoto) Is that solution any good? Did someone try it? Regards, Herbert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly Posted July 19, 2013 Share Posted July 19, 2013 probably a good idea for the feed Herb but not the Drain as th edrian needs to be gravity fed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herb Posted July 19, 2013 Share Posted July 19, 2013 Yeah, good point Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted July 19, 2013 Share Posted July 19, 2013 Basic NA-t setup doesn't require engine removal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluedrag Posted July 20, 2013 Author Share Posted July 20, 2013 thanks guys fo input i ended up just undoing the engine mounts and raised the motor a good 5 inches and managed to get a decent sized drill into it ( a lot of cutting compund was used to catch swarf =) ), if anyone has a link to a thread on where to run intercooler piping it would be muchly appreciated if you could post it here =) pics up later tonight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 Have you joined the na-t group? It's all in there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluedrag Posted July 20, 2013 Author Share Posted July 20, 2013 im a non paid member.. not sure who to ask to let me in to see it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 im a non paid member.. not sure who to ask to let me in to see it Pay the membership fee then!? It's well worth it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 Agreed blue drag its only ten coins of the realm and the benefits are huge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluedrag Posted July 20, 2013 Author Share Posted July 20, 2013 yea i took ur guys advice and am now a paid member =) so far the NA-T thread has been a huge help in the last couple of hours and solved a couple of my more pressing issues so thanks for that, i will post pics once i find my camera cable so watch this space Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bambisdad Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 Yeah like said. Motor stays in but lower sump must be removed. This is the only way you can guarantee that there wont be any crap floating around. Just isn't worth the risk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 yea i took ur guys advice and am now a paid member =) so far the NA-T thread has been a huge help in the last couple of hours and solved a couple of my more pressing issues so thanks for that, i will post pics once i find my camera cable so watch this space Look forward to seeing some pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herb Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 probably a good idea for the feed Herb but not the Drain as th edrian needs to be gravity fed Thanks fir the input, Fly.... So I'am not new to supras but kinda new to NA-T.... So basically, if doing na-t on the 2JZ-GE you need to take the engine out? If you want to do it proberly without crap from drilling the hole in the engine? So there's no way to undo the whole sump from beneath without pulling the engine I guess.... Thank, Herbert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Massey Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 Thanks fir the input, Fly.... So I'am not new to supras but kinda new to NA-T.... So basically, if doing na-t on the 2JZ-GE you need to take the engine out? If you want to do it proberly without crap from drilling the hole in the engine? So there's no way to undo the whole sump from beneath without pulling the engine I guess.... Thank, Herbert Pulling the engine out will save a load of trouble. Or do what some of us members have done and buy an N/A engine to work on. Got mine really cheap and did all the work while it was out. But I have put in TT pistons, TT head gasket, ARP racing bolts, head studs etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 Thanks fir the input, Fly.... So I'am not new to supras but kinda new to NA-T.... So basically, if doing na-t on the 2JZ-GE you need to take the engine out? If you want to do it proberly without crap from drilling the hole in the engine? So there's no way to undo the whole sump from beneath without pulling the engine I guess.... Thank, Herbert You can drop the front subframe apparently but it's easier to just pull the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluedrag Posted July 21, 2013 Author Share Posted July 21, 2013 ok guys so here are some photos of what ive been up to so far https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/579232_508526025873006_1096683229_n.jpg heres image of my car when it was altogether http://imageshack.us/a/img69/3711/6kmv.jpg went through the process of pulling all the front panels off http://imageshack.us/a/img812/7656/xypm.jpg forgot to get any images while removing exhaust manifolds etc but you probably have all seen one before so not a big deal =) then went and mocked up turbo manifold and turbo to see where everything should be sitting http://imageshack.us/a/img6/5088/s9qi.jpg after coming across the dizzy cap hitting the turbo i decided to go the 4 Runner Dizzy route and have since gotten that bolted up nicely and just waiting on a 2nd #2 lead to be able to put leads back in turbo all mounted after dizzy swap http://imageshack.us/a/img21/6396/vdos.jpg oil drian has been drilled just waiting on another drain flange to finish the drain lines and mount turbo properly and thats about it for the last couple of days, will have a look at either drilling the union bolt or getting a already drilled one from toyota tomorrow it also needs a really good clean in the engine bay so plz dont tell me to clean it =) i know its dirty and have got plans to get it clean once adjusties r in and i can roll it outside Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted July 21, 2013 Share Posted July 21, 2013 Good progress mate, can I suggest some new cam cover seals as yours are leaking by the looks of it. Failing that nip them down a bit as it's fairly common for the cam cover bolts to work loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluedrag Posted July 22, 2013 Author Share Posted July 22, 2013 hey thanks for that Rich, i have got new ones for it anyway but when i went to pull them off the other day they almost undid by hand so yea... a bit loose not much got done today as i spent most of the day trying to track down a union bolt and plug lead #2 both to which i have found none of except from toyota nz which is very expensive =( i did however manage to finally finish up my drain line, just need to bolt turbo up and get correct length for it now then its on to the oil feed which i am going to run from a oil filter plate as i cant find a union bolt. so yea will keep ya all posted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest aspire Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 Pulling the engine out will save a load of trouble. Or do what some of us members have done and buy an N/A engine to work on. Got mine really cheap and did all the work while it was out. But I have put in TT pistons, TT head gasket, ARP racing bolts, head studs etc. why use TT head gasket al? wouldnt you be better off with the stock NA gasket, seeing as you have used TT rods and pistons? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bambisdad Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 It looks like a tight fit to get past the dizzy cap. I had the same problem and had to use a 4-runner cap from a different year which has the coil connector offset too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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