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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Optima battery split,


hodge

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Hi guys

Has any of you had any experience with optima battery's failings.

I've just got home from having a blast out in the supra and noticed the top of my amps were a little wet, so I checked around the battery and sure enough the top seal has burst.

Now this is the 3nd optima battery I've had fail on me in about 5 years over my 2 supras. 2 red tops and a yellow top now. 2 have burst there too seal and the other just packed up.

 

Has anyone had 1 of these fail on them also?

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Sounds like it could be over charging mate!

 

My alternator went pop on the dyno at about 8000 rpm. I've replaced it with a brand new alternator from SRD. I've a feeling that my alternator letting go has damaged the battery and eventually it's just gave up today.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

i thought these batteries were dry bud?

 

No, there sealed so you can mount them anywhere but they have battery acid in them like all other batteries.

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My alternator went pop on the dyno at about 8000 rpm. I've replaced it with a brand new alternator from SRD. I've a feeling that my alternator letting go has damaged the battery and eventually it's just gave up today.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

 

 

No, there sealed so you can mount them anywhere but they have battery acid in them like all other batteries.

 

There a gel battery so no water in them mate that's why you can mount them any way up you like. on a side note I would stick a volt meter on it to see what it's showing with car off and then running.

And check the ecu log to see what peak voltage you have been getting.

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Must be where it's over charged and bugged the gel cells. do you have pics mate

 

I'll get some tomorrow Matt I'm at work at the minute. It's definitely battery acid cos it's got on the side of my amplifiers and took the paint off :(

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Could the higher ampage alternator have overcharged it maybe?

 

I doubt it. I had a 200 amp alternator on it before it went pop. I bought the alternator off lee, I can't see him selling something that hasn't been tried and tested or has a possibility of overcharging.

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Just looked at there site sorry my mistake there not gel but fiber glass coil which soaks up the liquid like a sponge so 99% dry

 

Well that solves that mystery lol.

I've got a new Optima yellow top on the way. Should have it by Wednesday/Thursday at the latest. Almost 200 quid I didn't really want to spend though. After this I'm spending nothing else on this car, apart from cleaning products. I just want to drive the thing.

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Well that solves that mystery lol.

I've got a new Optima yellow top on the way. Should have it by Wednesday/Thursday at the latest. Almost 200 quid I didn't really want to spend though. After this I'm spending nothing else on this car, apart from cleaning products. I just want to drive the thing.

 

Get yourself down to see Juicy Jen for some nice polishes lol.

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Might be worth checking the charging system over before you slap a £200 battery back in mate you don't won't to cook that two.

 

It's a brand new SRD alternator zero gauge power and earth cable, and I have inline fuses to provent and charging spikes. I have 300amp fuse on the starter and 100amp fuse to fusebox (alternator). If its failed for any other reason that it being shit quality then my money is on it overheating.

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The problem that I have been having with my Optima is that it wasn't getting charged enough and it drained quickly; I am under going my single turbo install and have also gone for SRD 200amp alternator.

 

I thought it's just plug & play hodge, is it necessary to install the extra fuses like you have done?

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The problem that I have been having with my Optima is that it wasn't getting charged enough and it drained quickly; I am under going my single turbo install and have also gone for SRD 200amp alternator.

 

I thought it's just plug & play hodge, is it necessary to install the extra fuses like you have done?

 

It is just plug and play but when I do battery relocations I like to make things as safe as possible hence why I added the inline fuses.

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Stock crank pulleys are 5.5" ATI crank pulleys are 6.78", this means that the alternator will be spinning 24% faster @ 6,800 rpm and even more with a raised rev limit.

 

With one of these pulleys I've had two alternators die on the dyno and you've had one let go too.

 

If you're running a crank pulley of this size, I think it a good idea to use a larger alternator pulley to reduce alternator speed.

 

I'm sure that's the root of the problem.

Edited by David P (see edit history)
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Stock crank pulleys are 5.5" ATI crank pulleys are 6.78", this means that the alternator will be spinning 24% faster @ 6,800 rpm and even more with a raised rev limit.

 

With one of these pulleys I've had two alternators die on the dyno and you've had one let go too.

 

If you're running a crank pulley of this size, I think it a good idea to use a larger alternator pulley to reduce alternator speed.

 

I'm sure that's the root of the problem.

 

I never thought of the crank pulley David. But just to Add, myself and Johnny.G both bought the same alternator at the same time, and his let go on the road while he was driving quite spiritedly and he had a stock pulley on at the time.

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I never thought of the crank pulley David. But just to Add, myself and Johnny.G both bought the same alternator at the same time, and his let go on the road while he was driving quite spiritedly and he had a stock pulley on at the time.

I think I had a Titan pulley matey ... Can't remember haha, but it was a redline pull that killed it

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