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NOW BEING UPDATED AS I GO>>>>>Transplant engine now knocking, help please


DodgyRog

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if its vanished its worth checking the trans end too mate, might be something bouncing around in the bell housing, sound travel down a crank can be very misleading

 

After you have said that, I am wondering if it might be the clutch, it was new with the transplant, but it gets a bit of a work out back onto my drive at the moment, due to me having to wiggle into a tight space while missing a big step and the Toyota IQ

 

I would of thought it would of just gone once it has cooled down though, actually that doesn't really work in my head now I have thought about it

 

Cold start this morning nothing at all until it had warmed up and then only a slight knock until after I had striped the belt and done the other bits

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I don't have the space Darren, I have 3 cars on the drive and 1 on the road

 

I can only jack the Supra in one area of the drive due to the gravel down the middle

 

Got 2 cars for sale, planning to change 2 for one decent one

 

The IQ is my Mum's but she is giving up driving and said I can sell it or Px it to upgrade my old banger daily, I think she is hoping I will run her around

Edited by DodgyRog (see edit history)
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Comp test

 

Drop the oil, filter it and chop the filter in half to look for swarf

 

Remove aux belt and check for play in any pulley

 

Check viscous fan clutch

 

Crank pully

 

Ensure all coil packs are tight

 

Whip off the cam covers to make sure no visible damage

 

Ensure nothing exhaust wise has cone loose, heated exhausts with loose brackets etc can cause vibration back through the whole system

 

Can you feel it through the gear stick?

 

Does it go away clutch in? (Unsure if auto or manual sorry)

 

All fluids topped up?

 

All things I'd check,

 

 

Edit: sorry just read the whole thread n realise you've probably checked a lot of these things

 

Best of luck

Edited by spikedjack (see edit history)
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Today the cams are quieter too, yesterdays clip had less oil-pressure than todays.

 

So is 5-40 Fully Synthetic the right oil for BPU levels at this stage of an engines life

 

Also someone said to use Diesel Oil for the 200 mile Clean through because it has cleaning agents in it, is that correct

 

If the Oil Pressure was down, would that point you towards the Oil Pump, as it has now got better again or a possible blockage somewhere

Edited by DodgyRog (see edit history)
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Okay continued from the other thread that isn't visable for the moment

 

please don't go into details that might get this locked, I am just after feedback relating to fixing/sorting my issues

 

For those that did not see the Video's, the engine sounded like this, but only until I cold started it the following day

 

 

When Knocking

http://youtu.be/MByzEqajx1Y

 

Following day after me removing the belt and checking pulleys and Crank Pulley Bolt

http://youtu.be/ytwKsMozZHY

 

http://youtu.be/mi5c2vdrHQU

 

 

 

 

 

 

So I have done an Oil change and used a Wynn's Flush, I have strained all the Oil through a cut of tights and all that is in the mesh is some fine particles, seems to be more carbon than metal, as it's not shiney

 

I also ran some clean oil through before refilling, engine has still not got the knock back, crossed fingers etc, not really driven it again yet though

 

It was mentioned in the other thread to look in the Oil Filter, is there an easy way to do this

Edited by DodgyRog (see edit history)
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Cut open the filter with a sharp knife(it's only soft metal).. You may be able to use a can opener.. Don't use a saw/ angle grinder. Or anything that creates metal filings.

 

Once it's cut open you will be able to pull the filter element out and inspect it for metal.

 

 

 

Haha, you made that sound so simples, I ended up making a hole with a hammer and screw driver then hammer and chiselled my way round

 

Again no sign of metal, certainly nothing easily visible anyway

 

What sort of size bits would I be looking for, am I looking for chunks or grains of sand sorts of things

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Any signs of metal is not good no matter how big or small they are! Lol

 

It will be the tiniest bits if theres anything. What happened to the other thread? I cant find it, did it get deleted?

 

The other thread is offline for the moment, it may reappear, if it does I will get these 2 combined

 

Well I certainly have not found any definite sign of metal, there was a splattering of very fine black (fine sand size) particles, but I think they may be carbon, there is certainly nothing shiney in there

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well thats strange but good.. im thinking don't do anymore just yet if noise comes back redo what you've done pulleys etc.. as maybe that area and don't want to go further as you may miss it

 

Yeah that's my thoughts as well

 

I have a spare Filter hear anyway now and Oilman has an offer on HERE>...... So I am going to get another 5 litres and change the Oil again in a months time or so. Going to change from the 5w40 to the 10w50 as well, hopefully that may help if it's slightly low on Oil Pressure

 

 

If the noise comes back I will be first trying the Crank Pulley Bolt, without removing the Belt, as that's the only thing I really made a big effort with

 

The only other thing I can think of is the Aux Belt Tensioner, as I never remember which way to pull the spanner to get the belt off, so I probably tightened the bolt on that

Edited by DodgyRog (see edit history)
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Are you able to pin point where the sound is coming from exactly? Based purely on that first vid (probably way of the mark here but worth asking) have you checked the spark plugs are all seated properly and tight?

 

Not something I have checked to be honest Nic, but I have got the Cam Cover off and have had the car running, it is actually running fine for the moment

 

No signs of any noise from the plug area, if I am honest here, I would of put money on something internal, I couldn't pin point the noise to a specific area, it was loud and seemed to be coming from the engine as a whole

 

Since time has passed and the knocking has gone, I am just hoping that it was just something weird, as in jammed or stuck or to do with the Crank Bolt or pulleys

 

At this stage I guess it is just a waiting game and to tread carefully for a while, stopping regularly to listen for anything odd

 

Going to be a pain for a while driving on edge all the time, but it's just the way it is I guess

Edited by DodgyRog (see edit history)
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Well its all back together and washed

 

Going to try and get to a show tomorrow, its about 50 miles away at Plymouth Hoe

 

Its almost all Dual carriageway, so I am intending to just cruise down, stopping regularly, taking the tools with me as well, hopefully won't end up on the back of an AA flatbed

Edited by DodgyRog (see edit history)
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Another problem seems to have appeared, not sure if it is related

 

My AFR at idle seems to be lean seems to jump around from normal levels of mid 14's to off scale, this seems to be only when at running temperature

While driving the AFR is fine, not sure if this could just be to do with the Oil burn due to the suspected Turbo Seals

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