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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Lack of power to the Aircon unit


Alex

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Think I might have damaged a wire going into the Aircon unit.

 

There are 2 plugs (1 14 pin and 1 20 pin), the 20pin one has 1 12v connector + a few 5 volt ones. The 14pin on has no 12v about 3x 5volts and 1x 1.5 volt.

 

Should I have more than 1 12v supply? Could it be a bad earth?

 

The symptoms in full are;

The backlight comes on with the lights.

NO led's light up. The Fans don't turn on or off. The buttons do jack all....

 

I have 2 air con control units. I'm 99% certain they are both healthy enough to work the buttons. 1 of them did yesterday! Today I was trying to swap in my new one (as the backlight had fail in some places). Brian D who I bought my new one off had it running in his car without incident.

 

So it has to be cabling/plug related IMO. Or will the control unit not function until the whole dash is back together for some bizarre earthing issue???

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Guest Martin F

I think as you half suspect you are going to have to start checking supply voltages to the A\C. I would start at the amplifier as you have eliminated the controls by trying a good known unit.

 

When did this stop working ? Had you done anything to the cars wiring just before things gave up ?

 

 

Take a look at this diagram and check that the earth on pins 9 & 13 of connector B are good.

 

http://www.mkiv.com/manual/1995_electrical_manual/I/95elec_231.JPG

 

 

Then check this diagram and check the voltages at pins 7 on connector B and pin 20 on connector C.

 

http://www.mkiv.com/manual/1995_electrical_manual/I/95elec_235.JPG

 

If neither of these voltages are there (will need the key in position 1) then check the fuses shown at the top.

 

For connector diagrams look at this one :-

 

http://www.mkiv.com/manual/1995_electrical_manual/I/95elec_237.JPG

 

Let us know how you get on.

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May or may not be related but my ECU-B fuse had blown (10Amp located in the drivers kick panel)

 

The symptoms were

1: The AC unit would keep forgetting the last settings. (So when ever I turned the ignition on I had to press all the buttons again)

i.e. had to hit AUTO

 

2: The rear boot lock must have some kind of dead lock as I couldn't open it with the key. Only the pull handle inside by the drivers seat.

 

This was the result of no permenant live to the AC controller. (Hence ECU-B fuse blown)

 

I don't think it's this as you've checked the fuses already.

 

Pete

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Thanks Pete and Martin...

 

Gunna ignore Brian right now...causewhat he's talking about is far too embarracing....

 

Pete,

 

I didn't check any "ECU" fuses as that didn't seem logical to me...I picked ones which seemed to be about interior bits and pieces. I can check it but not right now....this is all going to have to wait until next weekend - no light to work in when I get home from work.

 

Martin,

 

Thanks for the diags. Had a look for them on MKIV.com but couldn't see 'em! :rolleyes:

 

Can't read electronic diagrams very well without having the physical equipment laid out in front of me. So this is kinda one of my worst nightemare's :( I hate electrical problems.

 

I'll have a go at determining exactly what voltages I get on all the pinouts. I assume a good ground is 0.00volts! ??

 

Thanks

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Guest Martin F
Originally posted by Alex Holdroyd

I'll have a go at determining exactly what voltages I get on all the pinouts. I assume a good ground is 0.00volts! ??

 

Thanks

 

Errr yeah, but you need to check that the earth is actually grounding out. Best way is to disconnect the connector and measure the resistance to ground (a good shiny bolt is handy). I would expect a resistance of less than about 6ohms.

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I AM THICK!

I cannot believe I didn't pull the cig fuse yesterday! Think I had a logic bypass! :twak: :twak: :stupid:

 

It's well and truely blown with a 2mm gap between the two sides...must have blown it when plugging in the new aircon controller.

 

However - in going through the fuses I've found that 1 in the engine bay is not the right one.

 

DOME or was it DOM? = 7.5 on the lid but I have a 15amp one fitted. Now before I switch it to a 7.5A one. Could there be any reason for it being upgraded? ie I have that MINES ECU...

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DOME or was it DOM? = 7.5 on the lid but I have a 15amp one fitted. Now before I switch it to a 7.5A one. Could there be any reason for it being upgraded?...

 

Doubt it.

 

It sounds like the interior lighting fuse.

 

Always stick to the recommended value. If you have to fit anything as a quick fix try something smaller! At least it'll blow if something is wrong.

 

In your case your car would be on fire before the fuse blew :)

(Sorry. Scaremungering)

 

But it is very risky to fit the wrong type of fuse. It's rated to the type of cable and the load the cable can take. You'd find if anything did go wrong the cable would heat up and that's when the sheath melts and can then ignite something else in the car.

You don't want an electrical fire.

 

Good job you spotted it.

 

Even if it was changed for a reason. i.e the MINES ECU then the cabling should have also doubled in rating. I doubt that very much!

 

Oh and "check the fuses" does mean ALL normally :baa:

 

Glad it's sorted now. It's always the simple things to look for first.

 

Regards

Pete

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Guest Martin F

How big do you feel Alex ? :)

 

It happens to all of us, but as Pete says, always check the obvious first, it can save embarassment later on.

 

Glad you're all running again.

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That wouldn't be the one where Alex wired the switch in the wrong way round so that down wound the window up and vica versa? :music: :D :flame Dev

 

That's not the end of it though - his alarm system has an auto-window-up feature... Guess what...

 

:stupid:

 

How we laughed :)

 

-Ian

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