Big Mark Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 I need to replace all my pads and my front discs, will also be fitting my braided hoses that I've had laying around since Xmas and will change the fluid. My question is, do I need any more parts as I've read about needing to replacing caliper pins and anti squeal shims at the same time as pads. Is this correct and are there any hints or tips that it would be helpfull to know beforehand in order to save time and make the job a little easier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mark Posted June 8, 2013 Author Share Posted June 8, 2013 Almost forgot, I'll be painting my calipers at the same time too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87 Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 I need to replace all my pads and my front discs, will also be fitting my braided hoses that I've had laying around since Xmas and will change the fluid. My question is, do I need any more parts as I've read about needing to replacing caliper pins and anti squeal shims at the same time as pads. Is this correct and are there any hints or tips that it would be helpfull to know beforehand in order to save time and make the job a little easier? Mine were all still in good nic and could be re-used. If you are planning on refurbing the callipers etc then you may as well buy new ones as they are cheap and it wil be one more new part on an old car imo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LOGIE Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 maybe try braided hoses for better brake response. optional though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
girth45 Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 Hi I have just completed changing my discs,pads , fitted braided lines and painted callipers, the pins in my front calipers were seized, took quite a bit of work and heat to remove, callipers pistons also needing freeing up, brake pipe into flexi was also very difficult to undo, soak for 24 hours with wd40,. Use a proper 10mm brake pipe spanner and heat , be patient or you will be replacing brake pipes as well! If I can be of any assistance let me know I live in rugby. I re used my pins and anti squeal shims. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mark Posted June 9, 2013 Author Share Posted June 9, 2013 Hi I have just completed changing my discs,pads , fitted braided lines and painted callipers, the pins in my front calipers were seized, took quite a bit of work and heat to remove, callipers pistons also needing freeing up, brake pipe into flexi was also very difficult to undo, soak for 24 hours with wd40,. Use a proper 10mm brake pipe spanner and heat , be patient or you will be replacing brake pipes as well! If I can be of any assistance let me know I live in rugby. I re used my pins and anti squeal shims. Thanks, I'll probably be doing the brakes in 2 weekends time, along with another trial fit, sanding and filling of my trial rear bumper. If you fancy popping over you're more than welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mark Posted June 9, 2013 Author Share Posted June 9, 2013 maybe try braided hoses for better brake response. optional though Already got the hoses ready to go on at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 What brakes do you have ? First thing i'd do unless they have been changed is replace the outer piston seals and slider pin seals if you have the smaller j spec brakes, if these are the original seals then that's the first job to do as they will be on the verge of failing if not already. This will save you a lot of hassle with seizing calipers in the future. New brake pins is a good idea and when you bleed the brakes be very careful nipping up the bleed nipples as old j spec calipers are prone to crack if done up too much A vacuum bleeder is also the way to go when bleeding the system and unless its been done recently i'd do a full brake fluid change Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 the pins in my front calipers were seized, took quite a bit of work and heat to remove This can be a major hassle...personally I would try and see if the pins are free before tackling it. If you have stock wheels you can rotate them and expose the caliper pins/mushrooms. Try and see if you can lever the mushroom out a mm or so (the inside has just a split pin to secure it and so there is some in and out play) and then tap it back flush....if you can you'll have no issues with removing them on the day, if even just one appears solid you need to make some plans for it's removal. Penetrating fluid/heat/force is sometimes not enough and cutting drilling may be required....it can make the job one that turns into having to leave the car for a few days to sort or spending many hours on it and then simply putting the wheels back on in frustration and having a rethink. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mark Posted June 9, 2013 Author Share Posted June 9, 2013 What brakes do you have ? First thing i'd do unless they have been changed is replace the outer piston seals and slider pin seals if you have the smaller j spec brakes, if these are the original seals then that's the first job to do as they will be on the verge of failing if not already. This will save you a lot of hassle with seizing calipers in the future. New brake pins is a good idea and when you bleed the brakes be very careful nipping up the bleed nipples as old j spec calipers are prone to crack if done up too much A vacuum bleeder is also the way to go when bleeding the system and unless its been done recently i'd do a full brake fluid change I've got UK brakes all round, not sure how old they are buy rears look like new, one of the front calipers is a little rusty and the other is really tatty, hence why I plan to paint them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mark Posted June 9, 2013 Author Share Posted June 9, 2013 This can be a major hassle...personally I would try and see if the pins are free before tackling it. If you have stock wheels you can rotate them and expose the caliper pins/mushrooms. Try and see if you can lever the mushroom out a mm or so (the inside has just a split pin to secure it and so there is some in and out play) and then tap it back flush....if you can you'll have no issues with removing them on the day, if even just one appears solid you need to make some plans for it's removal. Penetrating fluid/heat/force is sometimes not enough and cutting drilling may be required....it can make the job one that turns into having to leave the car for a few days to sort or spending many hours on it and then simply putting the wheels back on in frustration and having a rethink. Dam, I hope I don't have this issue. Got my new wheels on now so not got access to the pin. I'll give myself a whole weekend so should have enough time and wil get spare pins just in case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snake Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 The pins are about £1.60 each so cheap to replace. The discs about £60 each. just measure the thickness of the ones on the car to see if they are below the recommended limit. An ezibleed kit about £7, if the fluid has not been changed for a while its worth bleeding all the old stuff out with new. If a caliper pin is rusted in then the fun begins . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mark Posted June 9, 2013 Author Share Posted June 9, 2013 (edited) I reckon that one of my front calipers is going to be a total pain to get the pin out as it is rather rusty. My plan is to get the pins before hand just in case. I'll either ring Steve Manley (at the Kidlington Toyota dealer that has been menbtioned on here for giving good discounts to members) or try http://www.tcbparts.co.uk for discs and pins. I'm going to change all fluid too so will be getting an EZ-Bleed. Think I'm goint ot paint my calipers with this product but not sure if I also need to get the other 3 products it mentions, cleaner, primer and lacquer. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251261950863?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649 Edited June 15, 2013 by Big Mark (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snake Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 Get some brake disk cleaner spray to clean the new discs i think i bought 1.5 litres of brake fluid to flush all the old stuff out . Don't let the master cylinder empty when you bleed the brakes or contaminate the new pads/discs i think i just painted my calipers with black hammerite years ago . To get the old discs off the hub there are two threaded holes in the disc to put bolts in to eaze them off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Budz86 Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 One other thing to bear in mind when changing the lines - its worth running a tap down the threads to clean them up. I found this out the had way a few weeks ago and it took ages! Plus I couldn't be sure it had a good seal either until I drove it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mark Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 Get some brake disk cleaner spray to clean the new discs i think i bought 1.5 litres of brake fluid to flush all the old stuff out . Don't let the master cylinder empty when you bleed the brakes or contaminate the new pads/discs i think i just painted my calipers with black hammerite years ago . To get the old discs off the hub there are two threaded holes in the disc to put bolts in to eaze them off. I know about the bolt holes on the disc, do you know what size they are? How do I change the fluid without emptying the master cylinder without? I've not really thoguht about it but I would of done somethnig like dissconnect all the old brake hoses from the calipers, use an Eezibleed to get all the fluid out, fit the new braided hoses and fill up with the new fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hackin_n_bashin Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Bolts are M8, need to be around 40mm+ length. Don't empty the system of oil, as said, it's a bit of a pig to refill from empty, grab a couple of litres of fluid and draw a load through each calliper to change it. Be careful which ezibleed you get, read on the back first, because there are ones which don't fit the supra brake reservoir. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mark Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 Thanks for the advise, I'll grab a couple of M8 bolts this week and take your advice about the brake fluid. I was going to order this Eezibleed kit, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350682253727?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649 Does anyone know if it is compatable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mark Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 Thanks for the advise, I'll grab a couple of M8 bolts this week and take your advice about the brake fluid. I was going to order this Eezibleed kit, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350682253727?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649 Does anyone know if it is compatable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 From the sound of it unless the fronts have been rebuilt which if ones rusty is very doubtful the outer seals will be on their way out as they could be nearly 20 years old. If they get a small hole or split in them then you'll suffer the pistons seizing and major expense. A vacuum bleeder is the easiest way to bleed the brakes, also when you change the rear discs back of the handbrake shoes which will make it much easier to get the disc off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mark Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 Do you know the outer seal part number for the front calipers and also the caliper pins part numbers? I'm not changing the rear discs as they are ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 As far as i'm aware you cant get the outer seals on their own from Toyota, you have to buy a seal kit that does both front calipers in which you get the outer dirt covers the inner piston seals the bleed nipple covers the outer seal retainer rings a pack of lithium grease Just give Steve Manley a call, he wont need part numbers or chassis numbers, just tell him you want a seal kit for the uk front calipers. I think the kit is approx £60 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87 Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Go to tcb parts or big red for the calliper kits. Ive always found them cheaper than toyota. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mark Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 I spoke to Steve Manley today to order my new front disks, though ran out of time at work to ring Chris Wilson to order pads. I'll be making some calls tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 If you use big red be careful as i have seen a seal kit with horrible retainer rings in it which i personally wouldn't use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.