V8KILR Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 I switched to a TH400 last year and getting a decent high stall converter that can hold the power my car makes is not easy to do. As I don't want to use NOS to launch, I decided the best solution was to make my own QSV as I didn't want to cut up my 6Boost manifold just to fit a QSV that requires an undivided manifold. Almost everyone will tell you that you that cannot have a divided manifold quick spool valve. Well, yes you can! All the pics and details are in my QSV article. http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/articles/qsv.htm Here's one of the pics just to get your attention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 Looks pretty smart, would it be possible to do a couple of dyno runs on the exact same setup with and without the QSV? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8KILR Posted June 5, 2013 Author Share Posted June 5, 2013 Looks pretty smart, would it be possible to do a couple of dyno runs on the exact same setup with and without the QSV? Yes I can do that. I need to take it back to the dyno after I change the converter to my 3200rpm one and get a quick re-tune done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 Just interested what converter did you go for in the end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8KILR Posted June 5, 2013 Author Share Posted June 5, 2013 (edited) The FTI one I bought is way too low at 2600rpm (despite asking for 4200rpm) and nearly couldn't hold the power either as it just started to slip at mid rpm. They offered to improve it, but my original converter stalls to 3200rpm and can hold a proven 700rwkw so I'll use that. Edited June 5, 2013 by V8KILR (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 The FTI one I bought is way too low at 2600rpm (despite asking for 4200rpm) and nearly couldn't hold the power either as it just started to slip at mid rpm. They offered to improve it, but my original converter stalls to 3200rpm and can hold a proven 700rwkw so I'll use that. Sounds good, keep us updated on this quick spool valve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 That's a great work of art. I can understand why people say that, with enough gap to flow from the closed off three cylinders it would still flow but would it be enough to cause restriction? Only a dyno will tell I suppose. Great component though mate. As soon as I saw the design I thought about how you would benefit from angular face on the flap, only to find you had used this idea to reduce the exact problem all divided houses have. Excellent engineering mate! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8KILR Posted June 5, 2013 Author Share Posted June 5, 2013 That's a great work of art. I can understand why people say that, with enough gap to flow from the closed off three cylinders it would still flow but would it be enough to cause restriction? Only a dyno will tell I suppose. Great component though mate. As soon as I saw the design I thought about how you would benefit from angular face on the flap, only to find you had used this idea to reduce the exact problem all divided houses have. Excellent engineering mate! In my road tests it seems to be okay up to around 15 psi, which would be about 400rwkw. The dyno will give me a better idea though and allow me to fine tune when it opens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 How does it feel when on the road? Does it feel like improvement? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8KILR Posted June 6, 2013 Author Share Posted June 6, 2013 Yes, it makes it a lot quicker and nicer to drive on the street. It feels much like when I had a 3800 rpm converter in it, before I swapped in the useless 2600 rpm one I have in now. I'll do some data logging this weekend and post up those results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 Does the unit automatically open at a set boost? I think anyone could benefit from a modification like this. Well, anyone running a turbo that is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8KILR Posted June 6, 2013 Author Share Posted June 6, 2013 At the moment it is just running off the wastegate which starts to open around 6psi and is fully open by 11 psi. For my closed testing, I just didn't connect up the wastegate hose. On the dyno, I will have installed my manual boost control and will tweak when it opens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8KILR Posted June 8, 2013 Author Share Posted June 8, 2013 (edited) I connected up the wastegate hose and went for a test run today. It feels even faster off the line with the 2600rpm converter then it used to be with the 3800rpm converter. Only problem is that once I got it really hot it started sticking and it will only move between 1/4 open and 3/4 open until it cools down. I'll pull it all apart and trim it a bit more. A little leakage when closed is a lot better then having it jamb when hot. Edit: I just pulled it apart and it was the shaft that seized. I thought the engineer had made it a bit too tight. I'll reduce the shaft size a bit to allow for carbon buildup and heat expansion and hopefully that will fix it. Edit: The stainless is galling so I did some research and you can get Bostik Never-Seez nickel anti-sieze lubes for issues like this and they are good to 2400F, so I think I'll invest in some of that as well. Edited June 8, 2013 by V8KILR (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8KILR Posted June 15, 2013 Author Share Posted June 15, 2013 The anti-seize paste did the trick but it is opening too slowly. To speed up the opening, I have installed a line direct from the turbo to the QSV so its getting boost pressure as fast as possible now. On a test today it is stumbling around 9psi boost so it is choking even earlier then I thought it was before. Theoretically the QSV should be nearly open by 9 psi as it starts opening at 5psi and is fully opens by 11psi in testing with the engine running when I open the actuator with my hand pump. To see if this happens when boosting, I did a brake boost stall test in the driveway and the QSV is not moving at all until 9psi and then it suddenly opens, but just a little too late to stop it choking. I think the reason that this is happening is that I machined one side of the flap down so as to not hit the center divider on the turbo and I probably took 1mm off the width on that side. This means the flap is now off center so it is taking more pressure to open the flap then if it was perfectly on center. At 9psi boost there would be a lot of force from the exhaust gas on to the flap, so what I should have done is take 1mm off the center divider on the turbo instead and then it would be much easier for the actuator to open at the 5psi the actuator tries to starts opening at. I'll pull the QSV off and get another flap made and this time machine the turbo housing to clear the flap, not the other way round. The only other option would be to have a high pressure boost source (say 30-40psi) to use to open the actuator, but that sounds too complicated. If its still an issue after installing a new on-center flap, then I'll put the original MasterPower 1.00 AR turbine housing on which will move the choke point higher up the boost range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 Increasing the torque for the actuator could be done by using an electronic setup perhaps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8KILR Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 I been thinking about the boost issues I'm having and am wondering if part of the problem is compressor surge? The turbo does spool up a lot sooner and maybe the engine can't use the boost quick enough at that rpm. The old style T70 compressor wheel does have a fairly high surge line, assuming its the same as the Turbonetics T70. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8KILR Posted August 29, 2013 Author Share Posted August 29, 2013 I have changed the shaft material to Nitronic 60 S/S which theoretically should not bind (gall) with the flange S/S (302 or 316). It now also has a bit more clearance which will help as well. I have also had the QSV modified so that the shaft is now 1/3rd of the distance from the lower leading edge of the flap. This moves the shaft to the center of pressure on the flap so that it can open more easily. The actuator is still the same one I have used all along. With my wife taking a video of the QSV, I have brake boosted the car in the garage to check how easily it opens. I can report that it now opens smoothly and evenly when the boost rises from 5 psi (when it cracks open) up to 10 psi when it is fully open. This is a big improvement on how it was with the shaft in the center of the flap where it was very jerky and slow to open, so problem #1 solved. Unfortunately when testing it on the road it still sputters at around 8-9 psi. I'm starting to think this may be a tuning issue, so I'm changing the converter to a higher stall one next week (that can still hold the power) and I will then take it to my tuner to get it fully tuned with the QSV. I'll update this thread once that's done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 maybe its something as simple as a coil pack clip or even the wire to the coil packs as i have seen some heat damaged and exposed wires come up more often now, best of luck with the qsv work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 Toyota used ceramics in the stock TT exhaust gas diverter valve, they probably found two metals were prone to sticking or seizing. Anything that close to the ports will be subject to a horrendously hostile environment. Nicely made, but what detriment will the fairly significant restriction have, even when open? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8KILR Posted October 7, 2013 Author Share Posted October 7, 2013 I finally got it tuned and the QSV is working perfectly. Just before the tune I threw a new set of plugs in it and it didn't misfire at all on the dyno when he first tried it, so all this time it was plugs causing my misfire. Strange how it was okay with the QSV open, but I guess the cylinder pressures were lower. So I can finally report that my divided manifold QSV is working perfectly! Yah! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8KILR Posted October 7, 2013 Author Share Posted October 7, 2013 And here is a dyno graph with the QSV line being the red one. This dyno is for the 3000rpm converter which unfortunately slips more then the 2600rpm converter, resulting in the lower power line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 Great torque improvement. Thought the BHP would of been better for more of the mid range. How does it drive in comparison to the technical data. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8KILR Posted October 7, 2013 Author Share Posted October 7, 2013 (edited) The converter I changed to slips about 9% more (based on max 230kmh vs 250kmh before at same rpm) which results in the lower hp once you get to full boost. A QSV will only make more power until max boost is reached (110-115kmh without QSV) which this one does. This would be around 5000rpm with my setup so the mid range is way better. My QSV starts opening at 5-6psi and is fully open at 11psi as it is just running off the spring pressure. There are probably more mid range gains to be made by holding it closed for longer. When driving around town, it now gets on boost extremely quickly with just a small push on the throttle which makes it really responsive and great for overtaking. It has exceeded my expectations on how well it works. The best part is that I didn't need to cut up my 6Boost divided manifold like you have to do for some of the other QSV designs. This design would work equally well with either a divided or an open manifold. Edited October 7, 2013 by V8KILR (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 I think you need to make more gains on the mid range on the dyno and keep it closed for longer. That mid range is definitely where the funs to be had. Great engineering though mate. Hats off to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8KILR Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 Thanks. The final version looks like this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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