Wez Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 Ive never seen a turbo get that hot, only manifolds and DP's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragonball Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 Jeez... cool pic! Surprised that it even works still - well made obviously! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thorin Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 Lovely pink turbo you have there, suits you sir. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted June 3, 2013 Author Share Posted June 3, 2013 Good news, turbo is fine. Spinning as free as a whistle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Bieber Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 Let me know if you need an extra pair of hands at all mate, im only round the corner after all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kill1308 Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 Reminds me of my old tuned Fiesta RST running very high boost- that used to do that after a few high-speed runs, used to light cigarettes off it as a party trick, the things you do when you're young and stupid eh I never did find the cause, as I blew it up on a private road at 140 badgers per hour, sprayed oil all over the windscreen through the bonnet vents. So, I'm guessing a glowing turbo isn't particularly good for engine longevity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonR24 Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 My Astra coupe turbo used to get that hot after an abusive drive. Would be interesting to see what this is! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark newman Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 what about your oil temp, is that high, I think you need to get this mapped asap as I think it must be running lean , to get that hot ,what fans have you got not silly twin fans from ebay, I had them fitted to mine for a weekend and saw my engine cook, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 Good news, turbo is fine. Spinning as free as a whistle Thats the good thing with dbb turbos you dont even have to take them apart you can hear them rolling for about 30 secs after you turn the engine off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thetrashcanman Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 Let me know if you need an extra pair of hands at all mate, im only round the corner after all Ditto, would be happy to lend a free pair of hands if you need them mate hope you managed to get this sorted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted June 3, 2013 Author Share Posted June 3, 2013 (edited) what about your oil temp, is that high, I think you need to get this mapped asap as I think it must be running lean , to get that hot ,what fans have you got not silly twin fans from ebay, I had them fitted to mine for a weekend and saw my engine cook, Oil temp was 126 so pretty high - the highest I have seen is 134 but that was on a track. One thing I forgot to mention was that I did a high speed run on a test track on the way home. Also just checked my boost controller and the peak is 1.85 bar and that was in the 6th gear pull up to about 6000rpm. That answers that question as to why it was so bad. Reference the fans, I have always stuck with the stock fan although I have a decent inter cooler and rad and an 18row oil cooler. Intake temps are always nice and low - water temp is fine with general driving although it has been known to boil when drifting. No use till injectors cleaned as I know I have an issue there! Good job I spent so much on good engine parts! Thanks for the offers for help on work - I may well send the car to Supraloopy for work but that depends on if I want to spend the time working on it - needs lots doing at the moment. Edited June 3, 2013 by Pig (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 I think the picture shows that the sensor is working, It certainly does look a little warm, but EGT's of 1000+C on multiple runs would have caused the turbo or engine to let go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted June 3, 2013 Author Share Posted June 3, 2013 It certainly does look a little warm, but EGT's of 1000+C on multiple runs would have caused the turbo or engine to let go. It's a fully built engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 It's a fully built engine Even with a built engine 1000+C temps in the downpipe on multiple runs would have melted something or caused det, which was why I questioned the accuracy of the gauge readings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 I got these for det cans on recommendation from Dude years ago. They are still going strong and have used them for other investigative work as well, like wheel bearings, pulley bearings etc.. http://www.directsupplyukltd.co.uk/products/steelman-electronic-stethoscope-ste06606/347/ Also for reference I see 650degC before the turbo on fast cruise, and about 900 if that on boost. 1000degC after the turbo seems to be on borrowed time to me. CW will sort the injector flow testing and cleaning for you. Removal is indeed a pain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 A hard run turbo will get that hot (visually) on track. BUT you are a gnat's whisker from an oil fire without a turbine housing blanket and that oil feed. Modern oils and Ni-Resist turbine housings will survive 1000C, but it's on the extreme edge, and if the EGT is reading right, and is AFTER the turbine (useless, useless....) it's crazy hot before it. You are really wanting to read in cylinder temps, but no one outside engine manufacturers really do that, so you need to read as near the exhaust valves as possible. TOTALLY pointless reading after the turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted June 4, 2013 Author Share Posted June 4, 2013 A hard run turbo will get that hot (visually) on track. BUT you are a gnat's whisker from an oil fire without a turbine housing blanket and that oil feed. Modern oils and Ni-Resist turbine housings will survive 1000C, but it's on the extreme edge, and if the EGT is reading right, and is AFTER the turbine (useless, useless....) it's crazy hot before it. You are really wanting to read in cylinder temps, but no one outside engine manufacturers really do that, so you need to read as near the exhaust valves as possible. TOTALLY pointless reading after the turbo. The turbo blanket was removed for the pics and was holding the heat in very well. Injectors are coming out to see where we go with that. Maybe nic is right and the gauge has done its time. Who knows! Time will tell - watch this space. I need a new boost sensor so may get rid of the EGT if its useless where it is... I don't want to drill into the manifold. I don't see why the gauge would suddenly start reading high though.. Yes stop reading but not read wrong? It's starting to annoy me now - may start striping tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted June 4, 2013 Author Share Posted June 4, 2013 I got these for det cans on recommendation from Dude years ago. They are still going strong and have used them for other investigative work as well, like wheel bearings, pulley bearings etc.. http://www.directsupplyukltd.co.uk/products/steelman-electronic-stethoscope-ste06606/347/ Also for reference I see 650degC before the turbo on fast cruise, and about 900 if that on boost. 1000degC after the turbo seems to be on borrowed time to me. CW will sort the injector flow testing and cleaning for you. Removal is indeed a pain They look ace! I think I will go with that. Buy once and keep forever. My temps have never been that low and always measured after turbo. Bear in mind I am talking post turbo when bpu, single and then single again and since this problem. Time will now tell. I am now a bit concerned as 1000 is the cut off point but not after the turbo where temps are at least 200 lower. Oh well. 1 thing at a time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 Drill the manifold and have a half inch thick stainless boss welded in and thread it for the EGT probe. You MUST use an Inconel probe, especially at those potential temps. You may find the sensor is shot. If you want to mail it me I can test it. I can also supply proper Inconel probes from stock, with adaptors and proper K type terminations. Most of the probes with the cheaper EGT gauges are pretty rubbish, and stainless steel, to boot. - - - Updated - - - Drill the manifold and have a half inch thick stainless boss welded in and thread it for the EGT probe. You MUST use an Inconel probe, especially at those potential temps. You may find the sensor is shot. If you want to mail it me I can test it. I can also supply proper Inconel probes from stock, with adaptors and proper K type terminations. Most of the probes with the cheaper EGT gauges are pretty rubbish, and stainless steel, to boot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted June 4, 2013 Author Share Posted June 4, 2013 Drill the manifold and have a half inch thick stainless boss welded in and thread it for the EGT probe. You MUST use an Inconel probe, especially at those potential temps. You may find the sensor is shot. If you want to mail it me I can test it. I can also supply proper Inconel probes from stock, with adaptors and proper K type terminations. Most of the probes with the cheaper EGT gauges are pretty rubbish, and stainless steel, to boot. I will leave a job like that on the manifold to the professionals! That would be a huge amount of work for me. This is the gauge that I bought and makes for interesting reading. (http://www.spa-uk.co.uk/(S(b20q0lcwppy3bjjnyhvdf30x))/design/productdetails/default.aspx?objid=205) 1. K type stainless steel thermocouple probe sensor - Good or bad? 2. Reads up to 1300 but mine is stopping at 1007.... I have had mine for years so it maybe that has increased over time. Ill get it sent to you with the injectors (assuming ok to send you them). If the thermocouple has failed then I will start from scratch as the boost sensor has failed and that alone is about £150 to replace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted June 4, 2013 Author Share Posted June 4, 2013 (edited) Anyone got chris wilsons address they can pm me. Package of injectors ready to go Thanks Adam - Chris (Package on its way, Ill be in touch over the next few days) Thanks Jon P.S - Anyone considering taking your injectors out, not too bad 1.5 hours to get them out but I am thinking 2.5 hours to get them back in. A few fiddly bits, especially if you have an aftermarket fuel rail! Edited June 4, 2013 by Pig (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krister Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 (edited) I wonder why anyone hasnt pointed this out.. but how much timing are you running? If you arent running enough timing and keeping it on the safe side, you will have alot higher EGT's. So say if you have 10-12 degrees at 15psi, you need to be running more. Of course mapping with some det cans. I doubt it's the injectors, usually if you are running lean, you will melt the piston and if you are running extremely lean, EGT's will actually be lower. Edited June 5, 2013 by Krister (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted July 27, 2013 Author Share Posted July 27, 2013 Hi all, An update on this. Its been a while as I haven't had time to fit the injectors since getting them back. I sent the injectors off for cleaning and the temp sensor for checking. The temp sensor IS over reading. That and the boost gauge are knackered so time to replace. Now that the injectors are back in and cleaned I am not having the problem that I was having on cruise so there was clearly an issue with them sticking randomly. I gave the car a run today and all seemed fine (no boiling hot red turbo) but I haven't driven it like I'm on a track as I have recently been in trouble with the police so have to stop driving like an idiot for a while. Next step is to change the gearbox, brake disks and pads (cracking). Replace boost and temp sensor and then look into what mapping is required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thetrashcanman Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 Good to hear she's running okay again Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 Great news. A cherry red turbo isn't good for your engine, further life has been installed bet your well pleased! Whats the gearbox change in aid of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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